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Cut off less than you think you should. As you shoot the glove, it will open up a bit and expose more of your finger tips.
in reply to: Hello, my name is Drew #12786There’s a group up your way Drew, called Carolina Traditional Archers. You can find them on the internet. They host a number of shoots and hunts each year. I get their email news letters and it looks like a good group.
Know any good places to hog hunt up your way?
That’s exactly what happened for me when I cut the ends of my glove off. And I never looked back.
Keep an eye on the seams. Now that you have cut away some of the thread, the seams will tend to unravel. I turn my glove inside out and then stitch a few loops around the end of the 2 seams on each finger.
Never had a problem with unraveling after that.
in reply to: Wood Arrows & Removing Nocks: Lesson Learned #10099I second what Duncan said. Between the glue in the split, and the nock holding it all together, it should be fine.
You’re just going to shoot it into a deer and ruin it anyway…:D
in reply to: I lost my first deer this weekend… #10095What John said.
And… all is not lost if we learn lessons from our mistakes. One question I might ask myself is : is 35 yards too long a shot? A lot can happen in the time it takes an arrow to go 35 yards even assuming the arrow was flying to the intended mark.
Once you’ve mulled it over for all you can learn. Let it go.
in reply to: Snakeskin backing repair #8955Get some glue under it (whatever glue you want) and hold it down till it sticks 😀
in reply to: Yew sapling bow #8225Nice nocks!
in reply to: Carbonated Clothing #8222Dude… Your a hoot!
I can’t get my boy to take a shower without making a scene either.
I don’t think carbon cloths stand alone as gimmicks in america today. Look at the average woman’s bathroom counter. Count the number of bottles of beauty supplies and see if it has had any effect…:oops:
I think you need to go hunting and quit worrying about those other guys. Me too.
in reply to: October is closing-in. #7694And the lemon wood bow will carry on, reliable as ever…
in reply to: Snake skins on my recurve limbs #60968Patrick wrote:
Copperhead skins look awesome! I corresponded with Bob Morrison earlier this year about this very thing. He charges $115.I know he does a lot of copperheads. I wonder where he gets them??? Anyway, $115 sounds pretty good if that includes the cost of the skins as well…
Did he say he would refinish the whole bow too? Or, otherwise, how does he protect the skins?
in reply to: Snake skins on my recurve limbs #60960Duncan wrote: Steve,
Could you give me some hints on adhesive and top coat?
Thanks,
Duncan
I have used both titebond II and epoxy to bond the snake skins. On the whole I prefer epoxy to bond them to fiberglass. Since fiberglass in impermeable, the glue only dries through the snakeskin. This also becomes a problem as you will understand when you read my application method… epoxy, on the other hand, is a chemical cure and doesn’t require evaporation.
I did several peel tests which showed that the epoxy bonded the snake skins much better than the titebond did…
I make a form that matches the limb out of something thin and flexible like 1/8″ particle board. I tape the sides of the bow to keep glue off. Then I apply a thin layer of epoxy to both limb and skin. Apply the skin (whole skin, not trimmed) to the bow, lay the form on top, and clamp with as many clamps as you can get on the bow. I use spring clamps alternating on each side of limb to apply as even a pressure as I can.
The glue oozes out and has to be cleaned off. This is the worst of it. Trim the skins back to the bow at this point. Some sanding will be required. But in the end, the skins are as smoothly applied to the bow as is possible. Doing it any other way (I have found) always leaves a bump or wrinkle or some other flaw.
As for a finish…. I wish I had a good answer. I have found that Tru Oil doesn’t make a hard finish over the skin and comes off easily. It looks great, just don’t touch it…
I end up using the same urethane I use for the rest of the bow. I put 3 coats on the snake skins by themselves. Then another 3 coats on the entire bow (making 6 on the snake skins). I am still looking for a better way though…
Hope this helps…. If you figure out a better way let me know!
in reply to: Sioux arrow #60936Maybe it’s an optical illusion, but… it looks to me that: while they may have known something about the weight forward advantage, they didn’t care much for spin testing 😯
in reply to: Snake skins on my recurve limbs #59734Do it yourself, with snake skins you harvested yourself. It’s not hard. If you buy the skins, you can get a pair of rattlers for $50.00.
Put the word out to friends that you want dead copperheads. I get 1 or 2 a year that way. But this year I haven’s seen any myself or gotten that call.
If you want someone else to do it, I hear Morrison Archery will do it. But it costs…
in reply to: predator bows #59698You may want to do a search on “Predator bow” in the forums. There have been a number of threads that discussed these bows.
Check the dealer locator on the predator website as well… You may have a dealer somewhere near you.
How’s that black widow shoot?
in reply to: Tree saddle anyone? #57488In my neck of the woods, being able to get all the way around the tree to shoot is not the problem.
The problem is getting busted by deer that have been hunted from trees and chased by dogs for generations.
In order to use the tree saddle, the tree must not have branches. This makes for easy detection by the deer. I always try to have as much stand height cover as I can manage.
I have never used a tree saddle. So my opinion lacks experience. But For what it’s worth it appears to me that the deer would bust you a lot in that stand. Just the sound of your feet against the tree bark as you move around the tree would be enough to spook deer.
I haven’t mentioned form in my opinion. But it looks to me like you will give up all the necessary points of good form to shoot from that thing….
In a word…. yuck.
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