[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Side Quiver #53044

I’m glad to get all the positive feedback about the Safari Tuff stuff. It sounds like the work well. But they still look bulky to me. I haven’t had one in my hands, but I hate bulky. Does anybody have a picture of one slung over their shoulder?

Here’s another quiver along those lines, no pockets but leather. Scan down to the Side Kick II. Might be able to get him to put a d-ring on it to allow hanging it in a tree…

http://www.hidehandler.com/side_quivers.htm

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Carbon or Stainless #48682

That’s better than I can report. My Wapiti and BB heads all get rust spots. Especially if I am out in the rain. But I found that rubbing some silicon grease on the heads works great.

I hypothesize that the silicon also helps the head slip through a deer if it gets into a rough spot… the head still has a slight coating after going through a deer.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Old carbon arrows #48677

just flex ’em and listen/feel for the crinkly sound. No sound, no problem. Look ’em over for any lifted fibers too. Just to be safe.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: I missed you guys! #46437

Hay college boy! How’s school going?

Glad to see you checking in. I figured you’d moved on to the bright lights and didn’t have time for a little huntin’ talk.

I killed 5 with the bow this year. Nothing to dwell on, just a good time and a freezer full to get us to next year. My kids are eating machines now.

How’d you do? Make any more cool video’s?

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Carbon or Stainless #44064

I like the abowyer heads. I have used them the last 3 seasons with great success (for me, that is…) I have killed 10 deer in that time with a bow and had all but 1 drop within sight. And that one only went about 60 yds.

I like the high carbon steel because it is easier to sharpen. -I haven’t tried the Abowyer SS, so this opinion is general to SS, not specific to Abowyer…

I think I heard somewhere that the crystalline structure of the high carbon steel is such that it can take a keener edge than stainless is capable of taking.

The carbon steel heads are cheaper.

I have repeatedly shot the high carbon Abowyer heads through deer and had them remain shaving sharp after pulling them out of the dirt.

I had one get a bent tip after hitting a rock on the other side of a beaver. That’s been the only “failure” I’ve had with them. I have 1 head that’s been through 5 deer and it still looks new.

I like ’em!

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Improving accuracy #44041

snitkerb wrote: Thanks for all the advice. I looked into a few of the books mentioned and plan on getting a few to read through. Hopefully this will either solve the problem or improve it dramatically.

Grasshopper say: “Don’t think of it as a problem, this will cause frustration. Think of it as a challenge.”

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Improving accuracy #42895

I would read a few books on shooting. Byron Furgeson’s Become The Arrow comes to mind as a good one. 3Rivers has a good selection of books.

Step much closer than 20 yds till you start getting smaller groups. Maybe start at 5 yds.

Learn about tuning arrows as already suggested, and

Try to find some folks to shoot with. Archery is a social sport.

You have demonstrated a key necessity for good shooting, and that is commitment. If you have been shooting at least once a week for 4 years, that’s great! Once your shooting improves, you will probably want to start shooting even more…

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Soft Fingers effect #41797

Are you shooting well with them? Are you having fun? Are you hitting your target? Are your arrows flying well?

Do what works for you. Don’t worry ’bout it.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: 3-blade broadhead sharpening #39299

I use a bench grinder to sharpen my 2 bladed single bevel broadheads. They are fast and easy and get the blades crazy sharp.

I know it ain’t “traditional” but it is smart. I’d rather spend my traditional time doing something else, like getting upity on this forum 😆

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Black Widow #39294

I’ve never shot a bow that wasn’t just a bow. I don’t believe there are any magic bows out there. I get sort of embarrassed for guys that wax so much about this bow or that bow… I’d like to offer them a cigarette when they get done 😯

That said, I just sent a black widow long bow back after taking the “test drive” And I did order one. Here’s what I can tell you about the longbow:

The limbs are rigid and stable. Probably due to their thickness and the layer of woven glass near the center. They have the most pronounced trapezoidal shape I have seen. I have seen many claims about “trapped limbs”, but these are the real deal. These limbs appear to have about twice the thickness of carbon as most bows.

The riser is heavy due to the paper phenolic in it. I like a heavy riser.

The overall fit and finish was good, but not the best I’ve seen.

The bow did have a strange “kink” in the upper limb. If it was a self bow, I would call it a hinge.

The bow shot well and felt good in the hand. I tested the standard grip.

The bow speed with a heavy arrow was good, but not great. I would give you the numbers, but I don’t remember them. I compared it to 4 other bows and they all shot within 2 fps of each other…

On Blacky’s website, the BW longbow he tested has the highest efficiency of the 4 longbows shown on the website.

If you are really interested, they will send you a bow and charge your cc for it. Upon return of the bow, you get your money back less shipping.

I ordered mine with no bells and whistles. The price was about 200 dollars more than other’s “basic” models.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Reduced bow weight #36844

I would think you could use the same arrows. You may need to increase the point weight 50 grains or so to keep the arrows flying right. Doing this will affect your speed, but it will increase the stability of the arrow and the penetrating power of your setup as well.

If you do get a new bow, I wouldn’t change anything right off. Just start shooting the new bow with the old arrows. Different bows like different arrows. So you may not have to do anything at all.

Reducing the bow weight reduces the energy you put into the shot. Therefore your arrow speed will, necessarily, decrease. Unless, of course, your new 45lb bow is of a much better design than your 50lb bow.

How’s that for wishy-washy?

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Fletching glue #35472

Duncan wrote:

Had a fletch rip off of a carbon today when it went through a brush pile.

I hope there wernt no pesky wabbit in that brush pile 😀

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: White Christmas surprise #34236

Looks great! I love the light cast by snow. Sure hope we get a little this year…

I hope your dry spell ends.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: string silencer placement #31948

I like to use 4 silencers instead of two…

Whether you use 2 or 4 silencers, the best place to put them is where they look the best. Not too close to the limbs, not too close to the center. String the bow up, take a look at it’s profile. Then use a sharpy to mark the string where you want the silencers to go. Use a ruler to get them even as measured from the limb tips.

Using 4 silencers, 2 on each end spaced about 3 inches apart serves to disrupt the harmonics in the string more effectively than a single set can.

The other tidbit I would give you is to tune your arrows after you attach string silencers. It likely will affect the arrow flight/spine.

Have fun!

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Barta Wilderness Arrows #30849

Is the taper too long? If the shaft is tapered, the field tip should go on some amount. But it may not “stick” if the taper is too long and the field tip stops on the small end before coming snug… If this is the problem, just cut the small end off a bit…

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