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in reply to: Hunting Bigfoot in Texas #22958
How do they define “invasive”? If it ain’t a cow or a cowboy it’s invasive?
yippee ki yay
in reply to: RattleSnake for my bow #20651skinning snakes is about as easy as peeling a banana… And to preserve them, only air drying is necessary. Here’s what I do:
1. cutoff head and very end of tail with scissors.
2. Start at the head end and insert scissors blade just under the skin on the belly. Try not to open the body cavity (I am about 50% successful at not opening the body cavity).
3. Cut through the middle of the belly scales down the entire length of the snake.
4. Start peeling the skin off the body at the head end. Getting it started is the hard part. Once you get an inch or two started, simply hold the already peeled part in one end, and the skin in the other and slowly pull the skin off the rest of the snake.
I use 2 boards (cedar is best), clamps and some wax paper to dry the skin.
1. Lay wax paper on one board.
2. Spread the skin (gut side to the paper) and stretch it out nice and straight and as wide as possible.
3. lay the other board on top and clamp together. Wait a week or so.
To ship, simply role the skin up, and put a rubber band around it.
I would guess you will need 2 skins for a bow…
in reply to: MA and FOC in Sioux buffalo arrows #16280David Petersen wrote: … in areas where wagon trains went through, was discarded iron wheel rims. It was soft but it was thick and heavy. Given the rust on these, that’s my best guess…
Hmmm… there was an old barn on my folks farm when I was a kid that had a covered wagon in it. There were also several extra wheels and rims laying around. I don’t know what the story of the wagon was, and it is now returned to the dust of ages.
But, as a kid, those rims were a magnet to me. I made many things from them, including some throwing knifes. My experience with the steel is that it was super hard and springy. It took an edge well, and wouldn’t break after my throwing knifes were cast into the trunks of trees for untold number of times (as other metals did). Which makes sense. you wouldn’t want it soft, or it would get worn off by the rock in no time.
But the metal would have been unworkable without good tools. Which makes me wonder how they worked it.
in reply to: New to Archery #16268It’s hard to find a good cheap arrow. If you shoot a crooked arrow, or one that isn’t spined correctly for your bow, you will be frustrated and quit. Then that is 100% waste of money.
But if you get good quality arrows that spine for your bow, then you will be able to develop your skill and have fun shooting, which is the point.
So my suggestion is as follows:
1. Buy some carbon arrows. They are relatively inexpensive, and are really tough. So you will have to work hard to break them.
2. Be smart about your target. Get/make a big backstop so you won’t lose your arrows. Several layers of old carpet works well. Bales of hay work well.
3. Have fun.
in reply to: Goals #1 and #2 achieved! I AM TRAD. #11663Nice Job!
in reply to: Bob Lee bows #9476You can leave recurves strung as long as you like, in my experience. It’s safer to leave the bow strung and not risk twisting the limb every time you string/unstring it.
If you won’t be using it for a month or more, maybe unstring it.
You can get strings just about anywhere… Just need to specify the length and decide if you want flemish or endless loop style…
in reply to: shaft making #63659Don’t know about the shaft cutter, but 3Rivers has a jig for making 4 spline footings…
in reply to: Quiver foam core #58002From reading your post, it sounds like maybe you are not pushing your arrows into the foam. No need to drill.
Take the broadheads you are planning to hunt with and strategically orient them to fit in the hood. Then just push them up as far as they will go. Done.
Then put your field point arrows back in and push them into the holes in the foam that your broadheads made. I think that will solve your problems.
in reply to: Bowfishing today #56973WOW that’s one good looking critter! The fish ain’t bad either…
Nice pictures Duncan. I haven’t been on the computer since yesterday so I didn’t get a chance to check this thread out till now. And yes, the tips are Warheads.
I like the Warheads because the barbs are wide and provide a good stop against those mushy carp. This tip is the least prone to pull through of the tips I’ve tried…
First trip of the year spent with a First Rate Guy. Thanks to this website, Duncan and I got to meet. I am sure we will have many adventures in the future. And the carp got to suffer a little in the bargain.
As for what to do with carp – they are so toxic with heavy metals and persistent cancer causing chemicals that even using them for fertilizer is not a good idea. Back in the drink they go to become part of the chemical mat at the bottom of Davie Jones’ Locker.
in reply to: Copperhead Skins!! #51432Very nice! Maybe another one of your fine build along’s is in order…
in reply to: Advice on new bow #48652Why get married after the first date? Go cheap, try different style bows, don’t spend a lot for a few years. You will find that what you want now may not be what you want in a few years…
Find a local shop and shoot some $75.00 used bows until you build up your muscles and learn what’s right for you.
You mentioned you want an all wood bow. The bows you said you are looking at include laminations of fiberglass. I thought I’d point that out to you. I would encourage you to stick with laminated bows until you get more experience. Then you can try all wood bows. The other good advice I’d give you is to skip the laminated glass bows and go right for the all wood bows. Now there is some real fine advice. I should run for office. 😯
in reply to: Accuracy Questions #48644If you are talking about carbon or aluminum arrows, then you are looking for trouble where none exists. I doubt there is a carbon or aluminum arrow out there that could give a normal person any trouble, accuracy wise.
If you are talking organic arrows, that’s another can-o-worms. But if you are talking organic arrows, then you must be willing to live with them. buy a bunch (way more than you need), cull the ones that don’t suit you and hide the rest in the back of the shed where your wife won’t find them 😯
in reply to: oak shafts #47677Those are some mighty fine looking arrows! In fact, I’d say they look Oak K to me 😳
in reply to: ATVs on public lands #47052If only OHV’s were the only way humanity expressed its collective… shamelessness 🙁
in reply to: Adhesive for tip inserts/carbon #33635Just 2 things to add:
– Broadhead alignment on carbon arrows is done by rotating the broadhead on the broadhead insert (which is best installed using hot glue). Just warm it up and twist clockwise till you get what you want.
– Score the inside of the carbon shaft before gluing. I use a piece of 60 grit sandpaper wrapped around a small screwdriver. Insert and rotate.
– I have found the gorilla glue brand super glue works well and is cheap enough. I have also used bohning’s “insert iron” which works great except that the bottle goes bad way before it is used up.
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