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in reply to: Left Wing or Right Wing Helical? #18579
vintage archer wrote: THERE IS AN ADVANTAGE TO SHOOTING RIGHT WING FEATHERS PARTICULAR IF YOU ARE USING SCREW ON ADAPTERS IN ALUM. OR CARBON ARROWS. THE ARROW WILL BE ROTATING RIGHT WHEN TI HITS THE INTENDED TARGET AND WILL TIGHTEN .POTENTIALLY A ARROW SPINNING LEFT CAN LOOSEN THE BROADHEAD/ARROW MAKEUP.
Now I don’t mean to stink things up here… But I have found no difference in the rate at which points rattle loose based on right or left wing.
I can say this, cause I tested it. I set up identical arrows and fletched 3 from each wing (from the same bird even :D)
On average, it took the same number of shots (4) to loosen the points regardless of hand. This surprised me because I was thinking of switching to right hand to eliminate the problem.
For this test I tightened the points just barely snug, so that loosening wouldn’t talk too long.
I think the loosening of the point has little to do with the rotation of the arrow and more to do with the vibration of the arrow as it oscillates down range.
Screwing the points in tightly and/or using teflon tape works pretty well at keeping the points from loosening.
in reply to: Left Wing or Right Wing Helical? #17446Like everyone says, it doesn’t really matter.
I went with left wing, cause I thought it was easier to get.
Now, it works out for me ’cause I get turkey wings from guys and I make some right wing fletch for them, and I get to keep the left wing all to myself 😀
Duncan – your the first person I’ve heard to say they saw a performance difference to the different wings based on hand… Interesting.
in reply to: Darned elk #17441I knew they’d be good!
I have the same reaction to beef. It’s tastless muck compared to wild meat.
But I think it’s a bit unfair to the cow. I expect it would be fantastic meat if it was truly grass fed…
in reply to: Epoxy and glue #16374Ptaylor wrote: So I’ve always used hot melt glue to attach points, broadheads, and inserts. But I’ve heard people talk about using epoxy. I have a couple questions for you folks. Is there a method to remove an insert/broadhead from an arrow shaft if you glued it in with epoxy? Where I’m going is, I’d like to epoxy the BH/insert into my hunting arrow shafts to be sure of the strongest adhesion, but does that mean once the shaft breaks I cannot reuse the BH/insert? Any of you folks that have epoxied your hunting arrows get multiple shots at animals before the shaft breaks?
I’m confused about your last sentence. I don’t see a connection between how the insert is glued in and the shaft breaking? Unless you are talking about heating the shaft up?
I have used a bunch of different adhesives. Some worked some didn’t. Here’s the highlights of the good ones I used:
The very best epoxy I ever used for glueing in inserts is the stuff the golf pro shops sell for gluing in golf heads. In addition to being designed for gluing stuff into carbon tubes, the epoxy has ceramic microspheres in the glue which aid in alignment and strength. It comes in a “ketchup packet” that has just the right amount to do a dozen shafts. Rip it open, mix it up.
I’ve used Bohning’s insert Iron. It’s a good glue too, but the bottle goes bad after you open it, so it’s a waste. Won’t use it again.
I’ve used Gorilla Tough Super Glue and it works really well. No complaints.
What I am using now is the Bohning hot melt designed for inserts. Just using it this season so far, but it seems to be really good stuff. In addition to how well it bonds, what I like is how easy it is to use, and how fast. You are ready to shoot in just a few minutes.
Regardless of the adhesive you are going to use, a good bond requires a clean and rough surface. I wrap some 60 grit sand paper around a small screw driver and scrape the inside of the shaft. Then I use a Q-tip and some alcohol to clean it out.
I got suckered into the expensive tools in 3Rivers for roughing up the shaft. Sandpaper works just as good, maybe better.
OH, and I second what Doc says about getting the insets out after glueing in with epoxy. It works on everything but the machinable epoxies like JB weld. They have too high a melting point.
in reply to: Darned elk #16360That’s some steady work Jim!
You say you can’t eat the natives… no natives? I thought roo meat was on the menu?
I always figured I’d get back to my homeland one day and hunt kangaroo. For some reason they appeal to me in that way.
The big culprit is the super crappy release… But to answer your question directly, I use 300 grain points and 50 grain inserts. So I have about what you have as far as FOC goes I would guess…
I blew the tendons out of my string hand a few years ago. And while it is much better, it’s almost like it’s someone else’s hand. I have to learn to use it again. Hence the crappy release.
So with the same arrows (bare shaft tuned to be just a hair weak) equipped with 2.5″ and 4″ fletching, I see way better results with the 4″. I attribute my discrepant results to my crappy release… which begs the question, don’t we all have a crappy release from time to time?
But I did go from 5 to 4 inch. And I did add a turbulator to the mix…
Smithhammer wrote: …And what today’s shooting session proved beyond a shadow of a doubt for me, is that there is no reason for me to not have full confidence in the 4 x 2-1/4″ fletch at all. They flew very well with broadheads, in a pretty good wind and light rain. In fact, my 3 x 4″ fletch were getting blown off course a bit – not the case with the former setup. So for me at least, and the setup I’m shooting, I feel like the issue is settled.
As an interesting side note, I shot two different broadheads today – 200gr. Eclipse Werewolves and 225gr. Steel Force Traditionals. From the shooters pov, I had never noticed any difference in noise, but my buddy who was standing off to the side and a bit downrange said that the SF’s were making audible noise, and the Eclipse heads were not. We repeated it numerous times, with both of the fletching setups mentioned above, and every time the SF’s were noticeable noisy.
I’ve been silent on this fletching length issue and I was hoping you were going to say that the longer fletchings were more trustworthy. Oh well.
When I went through the process you did, I mostly saw what you saw. But I was able to test it in ways you probably don’t have the talent for, i.e. Super Crappy Release. I’ve perfected the SCR (sorry, no autographs please…) What I found is that if you have a SCR, or hit a branch (common east coast problem) the smaller fletchings just don’t help as much as larger fletchings.
I can’t seem to get below 3 inches and feel comfortable with it. So I stick with 4 inch feathers. My arrows drill through anything (except a strong crosswind, which I’m willing to live with)
And besides, I’m sorry but, them short fletchings just ain’t perty, dangit!
On the steel force heads – I’ve heard that noise and won’t use those heads. I think it comes from their ferrel design. You can round the sharp edge off the high point on the ferrel and it reduces the noise some.
in reply to: Fletching painted carbon shafts #11793I like the white rustolium lacquer for painting the back 7 inches of the arrow. I usually just use 1 or 2 coats, and it goes on nice and smooth. Much much cheaper than wraps (and doesn’t add the unwanted tail weight for you UFOC types). It’s good to rough up the shafts with some steel wool first.
I’ve used tape and fletch-tite glue. Both worked fine. I have to add, Tape sure is easy.
in reply to: Different strings-impact on tuned arrows #11783Dave – on the weight question… I mostly just use yarn for silencers. My wife’s left over knitting yarn. Must be real wool. Fake stuff doesn’t work. Anyway, It doesn’t take much weight to get the effect. If you really want to have fun, try 4 silencers. 2 up top, 2 on the bottom. Then you can really get some crazy arrow setup’s to tune. When I was using super efficient reflex-deflex bows I used 4 silencers. Now that I am sticking to hill style bows, I just use 2.
Jim – on the speed question… I did some crono testing looking at what happened to the speed. What I found on my setups (heavy arrows) is that adding silencers to the strings costs about 3 fps. Moving them around to tune the arrow doesn’t change the speed within the accuracy of my crono.
But you are right. The way it works is that you change the inertia of the string as you move the silencers up and down. The more inertia the string has (moving silencers toward center) the slower the arrow will fly. The less inertia the string has (moving silencers toward limb tips) the faster the arrow will fly…
but like I say, it ain’t much once you buy into silencers anyway.
And Dave you are right as usual, not my invention. I think I read it first in Byron Ferguson’s book.
And I have to add… It’s like every other tool you own. Once you have it, you wonder how you ever did without it.
Well I have no pictures, but last year while searching for stumping arrow (not mine…) I found the head of a 12 point buck with all tines in tact, but chewed up some. Gave it to the guy who’s land we were on. Not a happy find, like sheds.
Also while out stumping on my land, the young fellow I was with flung a wild one and while looking for the arrow he found a nice 8 point shed. Boy did he light up!
in reply to: Nice turkey hunting find #11754Times two – what Duncan said!
in reply to: Different strings-impact on tuned arrows #10762If you like the way the B50 shoots, you can make the fast flight work for you by adding string silencers…
String silencers are very handy tuning tools. You can slide them up and down the string to achieve the arrow flight you want. If the arrow’s are stiff, move the silencers towards the tips. If the arrow’s are weak, move the silencers towards the center.
You will find the fast flight way more durable than the B50. It might be worth the effort to get it working with your heavier arrow setups.
in reply to: cool documentary #58078I have to second what Dave said. And I would add that I prefer to stay with my family the year through…
But it was interesting.
in reply to: string broke #55958Sounds to me like the nock just broke. That happens from time to time, so it’s good to pay attention to it. If a nock is fitting loosely on the string, inspect it. Especially if it was fitting well before.
The string likely broke because of the dry fire. Strings will usually give you plenty of notice when they are getting ready to retire. Frayed fibers at the string loops is a good sign.
No need to change a string that looks good.
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