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in reply to: Tillering Question. #36960
Very interesting stuff! And I do agree with you. Kids deserve good bows if we expect them to develop love for archery.
I hate seeing kids running around with crappy little “bows” that don’t shoot worth a flip. They are so full of enthusiasm that they can make it look fun.
I bought my kids bows that cost $150 or more each. Little 15# wonder bows. But that was in the days before Rhino Bows. Got them from Martin.
Hopefully the kids will take these bows with them and give them to their own kids when the day arrives.
A good bow, whether for kids or adults, will never be wasted.
Thanks for thinking of the Kids!
in reply to: Tillering Question. #35616Joe, you’re the black rhino guy? Very cool. Now you are the broadhead guy. What were you making before the Rhino bows?
As for the tillering question, I guess I got lost somewhere. I agree with your observation that it doesn’t much matter between 3 under and split.
in reply to: cutting carbon #35610wahoo wrote: Steve what do you do just put a cutting disc on and cut or what ??
My sanding table has a slot for a square. So I drop the square in the slot, align the arrow with the square and then slowly spin it while gently pressing it to the paper.
If you don’t have a square on your sander, you can just clamp a block to the table and square it up.
I’ve used belt sanders and disk sanders. They seem to work equally well.
in reply to: Bambi's mom is no fan of Thumper #35601More than once I’ve gone out to shoot and had deer pass by the target. Stop. Give me those doe eyes, and walk slowly away. It’s happened with field points, and broadheads.
No angst on my part. Wasn’t in the killer mode. The doe’s know it somehow. I think guys, hunter or otherwise, are not as subtle as we think we are.
We’re always turning to a sixth sense to explain their uncanny ability to ferret us and our intentions out. I think maybe the deer, and the gals, are just way smarter than we are.
in reply to: Tillering Question. #33189vintage archer wrote:
…I know some will disagree with this statement:D but in a fiberglass bow difference in the limb tillering (top vs bottom ) is not necessary. There are some who “manufacturing” bows ignore differential tillering and make there limbs the same.:D
As you anticipated someone would do Joe, I respectfully disagree. IMHO it matters not what the bow is made from. What matters is that the bow balances in your hand, and is correctly tillered.
Take a bow with even length limbs and hold it horizontally from the string or grip. The bottom limb will drag the ground. Measure the string length from limb tip to nock set on the top and bottom side. Does the difference give you pause? It should.
I am strictly a hobbiest bowyer. For me it is a Budda Exercise (used that phrase twice today 8) ) And I am prone to harsh judgement. But I believe bowyers make limbs the same length because it is easier to tiller and make a good looking bow as it hangs on the wall.
Tillering a bow with a top limb 2 inches longer than the bottom limb is a greater challenge. But when you get it right, you have a superior bow. A real meat maker.
in reply to: Osage Orange sources #33177I thought Hunting the Bamboo Bow is a really good video. I watched it many times and learned something from it every time.
His book goes into detail about self bows. There are some subtleties there and more info than was presented in the video. If you liked his video, you’ll like the book too.
I’d like to read Glen St. Charles’ Billet to Bows, but it’s no longer available it seems. Might get a used copy on Amazon though…
Good luck with your bow making! It’s a great Buddha exercise.
in reply to: cutting carbon #33171I cut my arrows with a dremmel. But I don’t bother with a jig. After cutting them I square them off on my belt sander.
There is no doubt a jig would be easier. It’s just my humble shop is so full of stuff already, I don’t want to add another thing that hangs on the wall and isn’t used much.
in reply to: Osage Orange sources #32117To learn about making self bows, working with board bows is a good way to go if you don’t have a ready source for osage. Osage is expensive when purchased as a stave.
Another backing option is just plain cloth. You can make a board bow that works pretty well with a simple cloth backing. This will allow you to learn the art of tillering without investing too much money.
There is usually a good hardwood store within driving distance of most places. These are the type of outlets that your local cabinet maker uses to get good wood.
There you will be able to find some nice hickory boards at a reasonable price.
finally, I would encourage you to read Dean Torges Book “Hunting the Osage Bow”, if you haven’t already. It’s a great read and gives you the practical knowledge to make a self bow.
in reply to: P&Y changes mind #32107As Clay said, when the dust settles, no matter what else is left, there will be traditional bowhunters. You can’t snuff out traditional bowhunting. That brings me comfort. Maybe too much comfort.
But I sense some hypocrisy in our self righteousness. I wonder how many folks who have responded to this thread are members of P&Y? I am not. I have no interest in it.
The organization is completely irrelevant to my life or way of thinking. So here we are stomping and cussing about something, but we’re not motivated enough to join up and work to change it.
Maybe there should be a movement afoot to take back the P&Y club and put it to work for the future of hunting, hunters, humanity, and the beast.
If a block of trad hunters, who are all opposed to “the book” and all the gizmo’s joined up at the same time… Maybe tradbow could have a link where people could join up and send a pre-written message with their application 😯
Otherwise it’s just much sound and fury that signify nothing…
in reply to: Noisy Recurve #26624Sounds like you’ve checked most of the potential culprits…
But it seems to me that arrow weight, or spine are the likely problem since your brace height is good.
Maybe you’re arrows are too light for the bow. You could try a heavier point just to see what happens. You might need to add 50 grains to hear any difference. As long as you are over 10 grains per pound of bow weight, then the arrow weight shouldn’t be a factor in noise.
One other thing is release style. Sometimes bows are noisy with 3 under when they are quiet with split fingers. Might try that just to see what happens if you shoot 3 under.
in reply to: Nhambiquara gear #26617Great Picture! Thanks.
TR sure did have some adventures. I have a book about him that’s on my list, but it’s so damn thick! I’m sure once I get into it, it’ll go fast.
And that bow, wow what a nice curve!
in reply to: Bowfishing string ?? #23314One caution with experimenting with different lines – Make sure it isn’t stretchy. If the line has stretch, or spring, it will be more dangerous than a non-stretch line.
If the arrow snags and does come back at you, you don’t want it coming fast. Stretchy line is like a spring and will make that arrow come back at you really fast 😯
in reply to: P&Y changes mind #23309It is my understanding, from one of the fellows just elected to the board, that the P&Y club is losing several members a day, cannot pay their bills from incoming revenue, and cannot break even on their banquets.
This is why they have been under such pressure to allow things like lighted nocks and electronic gizmo’s on bows. They want to attract the tech crowd as the trad crowd isn’t paying the bills.
Simple economics. The club is in the existential fight of it’s life, all else be damned. I can appreciate that. But the club’s troubles and solutions mirror the larger troubles of society. With much the same result.
They did such good work in the early years, but the seeds of failure were sewn with the club’s involvement in “trophies”. Vanity always wins. Vanity cares only for itself. And vanity dies a lonely death, every time.
in reply to: Paint instead of wraps? #21195the bohning feather tape works with no issues on paint.
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