Home Forums Bows and Equipment cutting carbon

Viewing 32 reply threads
  • Author
    Posts
    • wahoo
      Member
      Post count: 406

      I would like to tune some carbons ??? I was leaving the shafts long but would love to shorten them. I was using a file with great success but was wondering if I could use a dremmel tool to cut ? If so what do I need and how, would be great

    • Bruce Smithhammer
      Post count: 2514

      There was an article last year in TBM on making a simply jig for a Dremel – I’ll see if I can dig it up.

      I’ve been using the file method lately too, and it seems to work as well as anything.

    • Robin ConradsRobin Conrads
      Admin
      Post count: 920

      It was in the Jun/Jul 2013 issue. Send me a PM with your email address if you want a pdf copy of the article.

    • jpcjpc
      Member
      Post count: 170
    • wahoo
      Member
      Member
      Post count: 406

      thanks just found the mag

    • Col MikeCol Mike
      Member
      Post count: 910

      Bruce

      Another stupid beginner ? Why if the arrow fly’s straight do you want to shorten it? Case in point, I draw 27 1/2″, my arrows are 30″ add broad head and up to 33 or so. With 500gr up front and 31% EFOC they hit where I want them (when I do my part).

      From Dr Ed’s data that longer lever arm is what we want if it fly’s right so if tuned and long why would you want to shorten it? Or am I just confused about the original question:shock:

      Mike

    • Stephen Graf
      Member
      Post count: 2342

      I cut my arrows with a dremmel. But I don’t bother with a jig. After cutting them I square them off on my belt sander.

      There is no doubt a jig would be easier. It’s just my humble shop is so full of stuff already, I don’t want to add another thing that hangs on the wall and isn’t used much.

    • Bruce Smithhammer
      Post count: 2514

      colmike wrote: Bruce

      Another stupid beginner ? Why if the arrow fly’s straight do you want to shorten it? Case in point, I draw 27 1/2″, my arrows are 30″ add broad head and up to 33 or so. With 500gr up front and 31% EFOC they hit where I want them (when I do my part).

      From Dr Ed’s data that longer lever arm is what we want if it fly’s right so if tuned and long why would you want to shorten it? Or am I just confused about the original question:shock:

      Mike

      Mike – not sure I follow?

    • Col MikeCol Mike
      Member
      Post count: 910

      Well Bruce neither do I:shock:. I can’t even figure out what I was responding to. Rule #1 don’t type a response while engaged in conversation with someone sitting across from you.

      By the way I think the file works fine for cutting carbons.:D

      Mike

    • Bruce Smithhammer
      Post count: 2514

      colmike wrote: Well Bruce neither do I:shock:. I can’t even figure out what I was responding to….

    • wahoo
      Member
      Member
      Post count: 406

      Mike you do the same as me I think???? I am shooting arrows and I leave them long – in the beginning they show weak so I load the front end and the shoot fine . I had some time on my hand so I thought why not bare shaft tune and try and shorten the shaft and tune to my bow and that is why I asked about cutting the shaft .I use a file but thought if I could use a dremmel why not ?? Steve what do you do just put a cutting disc on and cut or what ??

    • Stephen Graf
      Member
      Post count: 2342

      wahoo wrote: Steve what do you do just put a cutting disc on and cut or what ??

      My sanding table has a slot for a square. So I drop the square in the slot, align the arrow with the square and then slowly spin it while gently pressing it to the paper.

      If you don’t have a square on your sander, you can just clamp a block to the table and square it up.

      I’ve used belt sanders and disk sanders. They seem to work equally well.

    • David CoulterDavid Coulter
      Member
      Post count: 2260

      I’ve been using a dremel with a 2 inch or so cutting disk. I mark the shaft, carefully cut it a tad long and then butt the end into the disk to square and shorten it to proper length. Works great as long as you don’t rush it. dwc

    • wahoo
      Member
      Member
      Post count: 406

      as said above why do you have to shorten arrows if you load the front end and it flies good ??? Whats wrong with a long shaft?

    • bruc
      Member
      Post count: 476

      Interesting

    • Stephen Graf
      Member
      Post count: 2342

      wahoo wrote: as said above why do you have to shorten arrows if you load the front end and it flies good ??? Whats wrong with a long shaft?

      IMHO, the longer the shaft, the better. But no matter what length shaft you use, it needs to be tuned to the bow. Not too stiff, not too weak, just right.

      One thing I’ve noticed about using really heavy points is that they stabilize the arrow quickly. This is great, except that if you are not familiar with EFOC arrows you might think you have achieved good flight.

      My experience is that a fletched EFOC shaft will fly well whether it is stiff or weak. The problem is where it goes.

      Bare shaft tuning will tell the story hidden by the feathers.

      In general, and in conclusion, by shooting bare shafts you will learn that EFOC shafts will need to be a bit shorter than standard weight pointed shafts to achieve good flight.

      Which is a bit of a bummer. That’s why folks talk about using really stiff arrows when doing EFOC setups. That way they can get the longest shaft possible.

    • Bruce Smithhammer
      Post count: 2514

      Steve –

      Just curious, why are longer shafts better? I’ve always thought of length as simply being a function of required spine, rather than length in and of itself having advantages, but I don’t think of myself as a tuning expert by any means. I’d love to hear more of your thoughts on this.

    • RalphRalph
      Moderator
      Post count: 2548

      Me too :). If a great flying arrow with a good EFOC is 29″ long why would you want it to be 30″ or longer? I’m not into big EFOC figures anyway but why longer shaft 😀 ?

    • Stephen Graf
      Member
      Post count: 2342

      Smithhammer wrote: Steve –

      Just curious, why are longer shafts better?…

      Whoops, I may have stepped into one of those controversial area’s again. Dang it! 😳 What follows is strictly opinion…

      I find I shoot better with a longer shaft. I think it’s because it gives me something longer to look down. With my aging eyes, it seems to help to have an extra inch out there.

      I think longer shafts are also more forgiving of poor form. The only explanation I can give is that the center of mass is farther from the string and is thus less sensitive to torquing. As an example, balance a stick about a yard long on your finger (vertically). I don’t mean find the center of mass and then balance it like a cantilever on your finger. I mean hold the stick vertically with the end of it on your finger. Now try the same thing with a pencil… This is an extreme example, but it gets the point across.

      There are disadvantages to longer shafts too:

      -Less FOC possible

      -More affected by wind

      -longer in the quiver

      But for me, in the deer woods, they are better. For elk, a bigger slower target I can get closer to… I would use shorter arrows that gave me maximum FOC. (this is fantasy talk as I’ve only been in the woods twice with traditional arrows in the presence of elk)

    • RalphRalph
      Moderator
      Post count: 2548

      Ha Steve, I got it!!!!!!:idea: A couple of inches closer to your target!!! :wink::wink::wink:

      I’m cool.

      Oh yeah, regarding to form improvement, think I need about 6″.

      Have a good’n!

    • Bruce Smithhammer
      Post count: 2514

      Steve Graf wrote:

      Whoops, I may have stepped into one of those controversial area’s again.

      Thanks for the explanation, Steve. For what it’s worth, I don’t think anything you said was ‘controversial’ at all. I just respect your opinion and the depth of your experience in these matters, and was curious to hear more about this one in particular.

    • RalphRalph
      Moderator
      Post count: 2548

      Me too Steve. Just messin’ with ya. 😀 I can see where things can go like you say with carbon but with wood I think you be gettin way more wiggles in the paradox with additional length???? Of course this thread be cutting carbons, not woods. 😀

    • quiverfull
      Post count: 37

      wahoo wrote: Mike you do the same as me I think???? I am shooting arrows and I leave them long – in the beginning they show weak so I load the front end and the shoot fine . I had some time on my hand so I thought why not bare shaft tune and try and shorten the shaft and tune to my bow and that is why I asked about cutting the shaft .I use a file but thought if I could use a dremmel why not ?? Steve what do you do just put a cutting disc on and cut or what ??

      wahoo, wouldn’t front loading a weak spined arrow make it weaker? The way I understand it, shortening it makes it stiffer so it can handle more weight. Or maybe I misunderstood your intent. JB

    • RalphRalph
      Moderator
      Post count: 2548

      Steve, I found this awhile ago when snooping African tribes. Can you use for support of theory? 😀

    • wahoo
      Member
      Member
      Post count: 406

      I just kept adding weight up front and they shoot fine. I have my arrow weight up around 650 700 grn and they are fine?? I am at a stand still as far as shooting goes – Just seeking info

    • Stephen Graf
      Member
      Post count: 2342

      R2 wrote: Steve, I found this awhile ago when snooping African tribes. Can you use for support of theory? 😀

      Now that’s what I’m talking about! 😀 Maybe this could be a new business opportunity… 4 or 5 ft long carbon arrows to go with Joe’s tuffheads.

      I think somewhere in Ashby’s body of work there is some info on using long arrows. He talks about the tribes of New Guinea using long arrows without fletching and shooting critters 30 or more yards away.

    • quiverfull
      Post count: 37

      Hey, brings you that much closer to your target! Front weight that arrow too much and it might come back atcha.

    • handirifle
      Post count: 409

      R2 wrote: Steve, I found this awhile ago when snooping African tribes. Can you use for support of theory? 😀

      Looks like some additional support is necessary, nothing to do with theories. 😯

      I guess either some monkey in a tree or some bird is about to have it’s day ruined.

    • RalphRalph
      Moderator
      Post count: 2548

      Perhaps a drone fixin’ to go down? :D:D

    • James HarveyJames Harvey
      Member
      Post count: 1130

      R2 wrote: Can you use for support of theory? 😀

      Ralph, looks to me like those long arrows are compensation for other shortfalls 😉

    • RalphRalph
      Moderator
      Post count: 2548

      Jim, we thinkin alike. 😀 I know you’re not relating height to length.

      Thinking on it, a 4′ arrow ought to have a lot of weight forward from the launch point.:D

      When you goin kayaking around the world? Well, maybe not quite that far, but your trip?

    • James HarveyJames Harvey
      Member
      Post count: 1130

      Not sure now Ralph, was supposed to start in the beginning of August but my CO has back flipped on his releasing me for the whole thing, I may only be doing half of it now 😥

      It’ll still be good, but not quite as epic as I had hoped for. I think I’ll be joining them about halfway up the QLD coast in late August now.

    • RalphRalph
      Moderator
      Post count: 2548

      Have fun. Maybe some bow shooting be in order. Too bad about the whole trip but some better than none. 😀

Viewing 32 reply threads
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.