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in reply to: Outgrown Bow or Wasted Time? #146316
50 lbs is a fair amount of weight even for a male. You can shoot clean through a deer with a 40 lb bow all day long. You will never go wrong shooting a lighter bow.
Samick bows are economical in price and perform as well as most higher priced bows. I bought my daughter a samick one piece recurve a few years ago and am amazed by its quality function and appearance. I bought it off Amazon.
You didn’t elaborate on the circumstances of your “spectacular failure” at hunting with your wasp. Care to elaborate? If we can know the circumstances, we might be able to better commiserate.
in reply to: Shooting tips on sloped terrain #146300Archery Anatomy by Ray Axford is a book that describes the mechanics of target form through words and fantastic pictures. Every archer who is serious about understanding how they shoot – whether tournament form or a more natural swing style – should read this book and keep it handy for reference.
In his book Axford shows how the muscles and bones work together to allow us to make a good shot. He shows how important the angle of the hips relative to the target is. By angling the hips correctly for each situation, The spine can remain straight, and the arms, head, hands, eyes, bow, and arrow can all be kept at the same angle, thus allowing the archer to have consistent form and to shoot accurately.
It’s along the same line as when old timers admonish us to “bend at the waist” when shooting down from a tree-stand. But instead of bending at the waist, its better to keep the spine straight and swing the hips around as required to get the right angle. And by understanding the mechanical principles involved, you can generalize the solution to up, down, sideways, whatever.
I shoot with a natural swing-draw style (at least I try 😡 ) and learning how my hip position affects my shot has really helped me to be more comfortable taking any ol’ shot that comes along.
in reply to: What ya got goin'? 2 #146051Ramond says…
“Then there is the red wolf ?! Stephen I read there are still a few running around north Carolina ?
Scout aka Ray”
There are a few that are half heartedly protected. The feds protect them, the state encourages people to shoot them.
My understanding is that in the south east, coyotes are new and that they were imported by dog hunters using them to train their deer dogs. However they got here, they are here to stay.
For a long time, they were unwelcome in my mind. But I have learned to adapt to them. I keep my livestock fenced in with good fence and in more than 10 years have not lost a single lamb to coyotes. I buy 15% more chickens than I need so that I can happily share with the coyotes and the hawks.
I have noticed the wildlife populations coming back. We have squirrel, possum, deer and rabbit again. The rest of the fauna seems to be adapting to their new coyote neighbors.
Just because we have the power of the gun, we think we are justified in deciding who is welcome, and who is not. All the while we stink up the air, water, and land for all the citizens of this world (two legged and otherwise). We imagine it is our divine right to overpopulate the earth and disregard the workings of nature and thermodynamics.
Our misconceptions about gravity have very little to do with what happens after we jump off that cliff.
in reply to: John Schulz Longbows Value Opinions #145934I know of a few that have sold, anywhere from $500 to over $1000. The bows you speak of are from his “naturals” time when he made bows without fiberglass.
His fiberglass bows sell for about $400.00-$600 used.
The naturals can be a tougher sell since their durability may not be as good as the fiberglass models. But there are those committed to collecting bows and are not interested in shooting them. They are the ones that would be most inclined.
eBay would probably be the best place to get the highest price.
in reply to: Quarantine Archery Tournament #145880During WWII when gasoline and other supplies were hard to come by because production was geared toward the war effort, the NFAA did write in contests as well. Same idea, only now with pictures and printable targets.
I used to fill in my scorecard at shoots, but never did well enough to bother turning it in. Eventually, I just quit with the scorecards as it was less bother and more fun that way.
I do miss walking the course (or roving the woods) and shooting the bull with friends. This will be fun to watch!
in reply to: TBOT and Championship Shoot at Memphis, TX #145857Great picture Ralph! When I saw it I thought about the neighbor on the old sitcom Home Improvement: “Hidey ho there good neighbor!”
in reply to: What ya got goin'? 2 #145827Hay Jim! Good to hear from one of the forum’s “old timers”. Are you being stationed up there? I guess you’ll be packing the barbie…
in reply to: 2019-20 season updates #145768I’ve tried eating our local carp. Can’t do it. Nasty. Stinks like rotting garbage as its cooked.
in reply to: What ya got goin'? 2 #145752It’s lambing season here, so while we’re keeping our distance from two legged critters, we’re cozying up to the four legged ones. Here’s my boy introducing a lamb to the harsh realities that it’s not all sunshine and green grass…
The colleges have closed, so my kids are home for the duration. Lots getting done around the farm that wouldn’t have otherwise.
in reply to: The Journey of a Bow #145751You will have to send it on its way again soon I bet…
in reply to: Twisting strings #145345I don’t think it matters about the string.
But I would wrap the serving so that as the fingers come off it, they are pulling to tighten it.
When I serve a bow for me (rh) I lay the bow with the top limb to my left and I wrap the serving from bottom to top going clockwise (viewed from the top limb looking into the end of the string)
I’ve done a couple lefty’s and when I do those bows, I just flip the bow over so that the bottom limb is to my left and I serve from top to bottom.
That way, I don’t have to change my routine. I’ve had no complaints (‘cept from my wife and kids).
in reply to: Brand new to Traditional Archery #144678I don’t know what cactus juice is either, but there have been attempts to strengthen arrows over the years with various chemicals and processes.
There were Bill Sweetland’s ForgeWood compressed shafts. Forgot the name of the fellow that was doing that after WWII. Heat and compress the wood (in board form) at the same time. Then dowel the shafts. Super strong shafts. But heavy.
There were Dan Quinland’s chemically hardened Super Cedar shafts. Pull a vacuum on the shafts, then inject a polymer under pressure and wait for it to soak through the wood. Makes the shafts heavy.
There’s a bunch of cool things to experiment on with wood. Trying to improve its strength usually results in a really heavy product. Sometimes too heavy to be practical for some of us.
Making wood arrows from the ground up is a blast. I think you will have fun with it.
I like your commitment to coffee. I feel the same way!
in reply to: Propeller Twist #144591I don’t think I have any suggestions for the stave. In truth, I really can’t tell what’s going on with it from the picture.
If it is twisted as much as you say, I don’t think it would make much of a bow. Sounds like Mountain Ash tends to be twisty in your area and it might prove hard to find a good stave. You might try a laminated bow to see if that would help you work around the problems…
Cut the stave into 1/8 or 1/4 inch thick slats 1 1/2 to 2 inches wide, depending on the bow style you are interested in. Orient the slats so that the twists are opposite, glue and clamp into a blank. You can then work it as if it was a stave. This will require a backing of some sort.
A good cheap glue for such a project is Dap Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue. I have found it every bit as good as Urac, and it lasts forever instead of getting hard in the can. Keep it in the Refrigerator so it stays dry and cool.
in reply to: Hornbeam/Ironwood/Musclewood #144480The taxonomy of that wood is somewhat confused I think. The tree you show is correctly called Hop Hornbeam and grows in the understory of mature forests. It is a very hard wood that is used for making things like bowls and mallet heads.
The tree that has a reputation for making good bow wood is the American Hornbeam. The wood of the American Hornbeam is used to make ax handles and such because of its strength and elasticity…
If you look up either hornbeams, the information will be jumbled together. As I understand it, there are over 100 species of trees identified as “ironwood”. Another name for what you have pictured is musclewood. The American Hornbeam has a rounder shape and a more shaggy bark.
Paul Comstock would say that there is no doubt that you can make a bow from that wood. So if you want to do it, have fun! And post some pictures of your progress…
in reply to: Broadhead sharpening ????? #144254You’ve opened quite a can of worms there. Firstly, congrats on your hunt!
Some folks claim that a shaving sharp broadhead is the best at causing hemorrhage and the deepest penetrating. Others claim that a rough file edge is best as it tears the tissue up more.
You can read through the Ashby stuff on this website to learn more I am sure.
In my own experience, I don’t see much difference between the two with a well placed shot (or a not so well placed shot, either). I find it hard to keep the super sharp edges keen in my back quiver. I usually start out the season with my broadheads all shaving sharp, courtesy of my shop grinding wheel. By the end of the season they’ve been roughed up by the file.
I do like narrow,single bevel, cheap as possible, heads.
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