[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: different Carbon arrows #8352

I’ve got a dozen of the old outsert carbon arrows laying around and I was thinking about fixing them up. They have an outsert on the front which makes them almost indestructible. It’s sort of a combination insert and external footing in one. They are also thick walled and small diameter like the Axis arrows.

They fell out of favor with compound shooters when the insert arrows came along. Using inserts allows for shorter arrows since the inserts don’t affect how an arrow comes across an arrow rest. But for traditional archers shooting off the shelf, it’s not a negative.

Axis arrows are sort of a reinvention of the original pultruded carbon shafts, just with inserts instead of outserts. The old arrows sure were a lot cheaper…

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Screw-in Abowyer Brown Bear #8343

GEEEEs the price went up again. I better quit procrastinating.

Patrick – I’m no expert, but here’s how I look at it.

High carbon cutlery grade steel – easier to sharpen than stainless and takes a better edge. Downside is it will likely dull faster and oxidize.

Stainless – Holds an edge better than carbon steel and won’t rust. Downside is it doesn’t take as keen an edge and it is harder to sharpen and it is a little more expensive.

Since they are so expensive, I would definitely reuse them if possible. Thus re-sharpening is required so I will probably get the high carbon steel ones.

If you get their grinding wheel sharpening system, then the stainless sharpening issue is probably mute.

Like I said, I am no knife expert. But I was at a trade show a few years ago and spoke with one of the knife vendors. He said that his line of knifes (forgot maker, but it was american) converted all their knifes to stainless. But then they got lots of complaints about how hard it was to sharpen and what a poor edge resulted. So they went back to high carbon steel on the entire line.

My guess is that for throw away broadheads that come sharp out of the package, stainless is the best option. It has been used for years on 3 bladed cheap broadheads. But when you consider a 2 bladed expensive broadhead meant to last many seasons, the merits of high carbon steel will win out….

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Bow length vs draw length #59972

With the information you provided, it’s hard to answer definitively. But in general, a longer bow will be more forgiving and faster. The problem is that we don’t know what bows you have chosen.

For example, if one bow was a longbow and the other was a recurve, then that’s like comparing apples to oranges.

The best way to answer your question is to shoot both bows. Then you will know what is best for you. But remember speed isn’t everything. If the bow shoots really fast, but you aren’t accurate with it, then what’s the point? A super fast miss is still a miss.

I hope this vague answer helps. While I am giving vague advice, here’s a bit more… Don’t worry too much about your choice. Pick the bow that feels right in your gut and makes you happy. If it turns out to be a bad choice, then you can always remedy that with another bow. 8)

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: bow strings #57637

There are a couple of video’s available from 3Rivers.

They have their own video which gives a good tutorial on making a 2 bundle string.

The other video they have is called “doing the twist” by a couple of hot sweaty guys in Mississippi. It is much longer and more in depth and shows how to make 2 and 3 bundle strings and endless loop strings, among other things.

I found both video’s interesting, but if I had to just get one, it would be doing the twist….

3Rivers string making jig comes with a brochure that you can use to make a string if you don’t want to buy a video and a jig.

You can always make a jig yourself…

Bottom line, once you start making strings, you will save some money and end up with better strings more suited to your bow.

Have fun!

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Forge Arrows #48854

I have not used the Forge Arrows. I have tried Arrow Dynamic tapered shafts. What I mean to say is I spent about 30 minutes with them trying different point weights.

What I found was that they flew straight no matter what I did. No fishtailing, no porpoising. They flew like the proverbial dart. Problem was, they didn’t go where I was looking. I found they were very sensitive to release. Which is bad for me cause I have a terrible release. In my case they would go way left if I had a poor release.

My goldtip shafts were much better performers for me.

Here’s an interesting point – The tapered shaft and my gold tip shaft were the same length with the same fletching. When I checked FOC, the Gold tip shaft had a balance point closer to the tip than the tapered shaft. This was unexpected… But I switched from carbon express to gold tips because for the same shaft spine my arrows got 70 grains lighter and allowed me to put that extra weight up front 8)

Just 1 guy and 1 arrow, so take it for what its worth.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Bow fishing #46618

Where – mucky end of a lake, river, anywhere you see fish. Drive around in the morning and glass the lake fingers you can drive over or streams. Look for swirls and fins sticking up…

When – when you have time 😆 For me the best times have been hot summer mornings before the wind picks up.

How – I’ve gone in a 12 foot canoe with a friend, big flat bottom boats designed for bowfishing, and on foot. Doesn’t matter how.

The thing to realize about bow fishing is that it is basically a slimy stinky hot mucky way to enjoy some hunting in the off season. Bring sunscreen, water, hat, polarized sunglasses.

OK, you are an expert now. 8)

The most important detail of bow fishing is to figure out what to do with the fish you shoot. Can’t leave em in the water. I put them in the compost pile. I have a friend that grinds them up in his blender and pours it into his raised garden beds. Yes, he is still married somehow.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: good old mushroom #45481

I’ve been picking them for about 2 weeks…. off my shitaki logs that is… 😀

I’ve seen a couple supposed expert mushroomers get sick / die. That’s a thrill I can live without. 😕

Too many look-alikes for this dumb bell. 😳

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Slight limb twist #43109

Michael – Since you have shot the bow, I’ll offer this… If the string stays in the belly groove after you have shot the bow, then I wouldn’t fool with it.

Have someone else draw the bow, look at the limb in question as it is being drawn. That’s the best way to see if it is twisting.

The “counter test” can be misleading….

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: The anatomy of a broadhead's edge #43104

Seems like a lot of fuss to sharpen something… I haven’t made the switch to a single bevel (yet), but for a normal broadhead I use the old bear carbide sharpener that you hold in your hand and pull over the blade. It is small, convenient, and puts a shaving sharp edge on the blade.

I see that alaska bowhunters supply has something similar for the single bevel blades… A lot simpler and cheaper than the kme setup.

I don’t mean to offend anyone. It just seems like a lot of contraption for a simple job.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: The ugliest moccasins ever! #41965

Chris – how about a lesson on working the leather after it has been tanned…

I have tanned several deer hides using alum, but have been unwilling to do all the work to soften it. How do you work the hide without working yourself to death?

I made a pair of mocs once. Planned on using them for camp shoes. First night I put my feet up to the fire after walking around in the wet. Woops!!! the mocs shrank up like spandex and turned to rock. I barely got them off. Never wore em again.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Bow fishing #38618

Here’s a carp from last weekend using the gear specified in the last post… Still a bit early for lots of action, but I got 3 for 5 shots…:lol:

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Bow fishing #36977

Aim low. If you miss, aim lower next time. 8)

For a retriever, get the one with a small jug that holds the line, AMS retriever reel.

For an arrow, make sure you have an AMS “safety slide” on it which secures the line in a collar.

Get a rubber Gadget adapter to allow you to mount the reel to the bow.

All items available from 3Rivers or Sulleys bow fishing supplies.

I went this weekend and had a Blast. Shot 5 times, got 3 carp. Still a bit early here…

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Bow Wax #32154

I found paste wax at Lowes. They have it.

But I have to agree with Steve, for laminated bows it doesn’t help much.

I have used the gunstock wax made by the same company that makes tru-oil. Name starts with a b…. I forget. It seems to work pretty well, but after a month or 2 it’s hard to tell it’s on there.

Best thing is to have a good finish on the bow to start with…

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Micky's Fall Freezer Hunt(video) #32138

Nice scenes and weather shots….

But with the word “freezer” in the title, well, I was expecting a skinning scene… 😀

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Finally….. Daylight!! #31014

Shitaki Mushrooms have started coming on the logs…

Asparagus still hasn’t made a showing yet…

Lettuce, spinach, and taters in the garden…

Groundhogs have started new holes under the barns…

Time to put last years broadheads to good use!

Duncan – you catch any fish? One of the guys from the Tuesday night group brought a 13lb bass he caught yesterday.

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