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in reply to: Kids' Bows #53531
I got my boy one of the bear plastic 40 dollar recurves when he was 6. He used it till he was 8. then I got him one of the nice 3 piece recurves for kids by Ragim. His sister now has the bear bow.
The Ragim was 85 dollars for the bow, and it pulled 20 lbs. It really zipped the arrows out, which made him happy.
He is now just 11 and I traded his 20 lb limbs in for 30 lb limbs, and it cost about 30 dollars. He’s still struggling with the higher weight, but he will grow into it soon.
I hope he will take his first deer with this bow. Just need to get up to 40lbs and we’re there. Maybe 2 more years and another 30 dollar set of limbs….
We went to a rabbit hunt this past Feburary. There were a number of boys there with bows. While taking a break in the middle of the day, the boys started having a shooting contest. The Ragim sure was the best performing, and my boy was obviously the best shooter in the group 8) 😀
3Rivers has similar bows in there kid section. I definitely recommend a 3 piece bow to allow the change of limbs. While maintaining the consistency that kids crave.
Hope this helps
in reply to: How much broadhead weight on my setup? #52339I shot carbon express hertitage 250 arrows for 4 seasons. I used a 150 grain broadhead and the arrows flew well.
This year I decided to give the extreme FOC setup a try. So I worked up to 300 grains and a 50 grain insert. The arrows didn’t seem to fly perfectly every time. If I had a bad release they would take a long time to recover. So I went to 350’s to see if that would help. It didn’t.
So then I tried some gold tips. They are much lighter than the carbon express for the same spine range. So my gold tip arrows with 350 grains up front weight the same as my carbon express with 150 grains up front, about 620 grains total. And I have yet to see an arrow fly poorly.
I don’t have an explanation for what I saw other than that the carbon express arrows with an extra 150 grains was maybe flying too slowly for the feathers to be able to stabilize the arrow quickly. I don’t know. My bow pulls a little less than 60 lbs at my draw length.
in reply to: Where to Buy Aniline Dye Stains #51433Woodworkers Supply, Inc. has a large selection of colors. They also have grain fillers and finishes and all the wood working tools you could want….
Better selection than any archery supply. You can go on their website and request a free catalog. It’s over an inch thick and full of possibilities…
They may also have a store in your area. We have one here and it’s a fun place to spend a few bucks.
in reply to: repairing carbon shafts #50641Ug…
That sounds like the beginning of a Darwin Award Winner’s story. 😯
You want to save money? Leave the broken arrows in the trash. You will save medical expenses, legal expenses, etc.
in reply to: A QUITE BOW #481191 sure fire way to make a bow more quiet is to shoot a heavier arrow.
in reply to: HERE WE GO AGAIN!! #48116If you can buy just 1 gold tip arrow, that would be great. Then you can fool around with it and decide if the spine is right for you. If not, no big deal. I don’t think you can go wrong with them.
I just bought the Abowyer Wapiti head. It looks great and is very sharp. So nice, I don’t want to practice with them! But alas, you must shoot and practice with your broadheads, so don’t skip that step. I didn’t get the whitetail because it was a bit wider than I am comfortable with.
Alaska Bowhunters Supply has a single bevel sharpener for 29 bucks or so. I bought that too. It looks pretty good, but I haven’t tried it yet. (reference practicing with the broadhead above 8) )
1 other suggestion – get some brass inserts for the arrows and use steel inserts in your broadhead. Aside from extra weight, this provides the most rigid setup that won’t bend if it hits a bone.
in reply to: Bow quiver or not? #47504I have always used a bow quiver and not given it a second thought. I did some testing to convince myself that it didn’t affect my accuracy.
But then after several years of deadly but marginal shots on deer, I started to wonder. (yea, it takes me years to figure things out). Here’s the thing. I hunt mostly from stands. I practice from the ground and then shoot some from the stand.
I discovered that my accuracy from the stand was affected by a bow quiver. I don’t know why aside from the obvious fact that shooting from a stand requires shooting at a severe downward angle most of the time. After I took it off, I found that my shooting got a lot better from the stand.
So for ground hunting, I think bow quivers are great. But for stand hunting, maybe not so much. Everyone is different, so take this for what it’s worth. Just one guys experience.
in reply to: HERE WE GO AGAIN!! #47493Do you know the spine of your wood arrows? If you do, then it is a simple matter to correlate that to a carbon arrow.
Or, you could just buy some gold tips which are sold by bow weight range. I think they go 35-55 and 55-75. Considering that you are going with a heavier head (good thinking!) I would recommend the 55-75 spine arrows.
Gold tips are good arrows and are fairly light. This means you will get good FOC on your arrows. They are reasonably priced compared to other shafts as well. I used to say “and they are made in America” but I think this isn’t true any more.
Good Luck!
in reply to: arrow tuning #44629I’ve never payed much heed to paper tuning. I think it is great for someone using a release. But for the average finger shooter it can be just frustrating. For those of us with bad releases, it can drive us crazy.
So my advise is to just shoot the arrow at 20 yards or more. Watch the arrow fly. If it porpoisees or fishtails, that will tell you something real.
Do you shoot 3 fingers under or split fingers? For 3 fingers under, a nock set at 3/4 in is probably a little high. For split fingers it is probably more than a little high.
in reply to: The one thing I discovered…. #44621You said it was a longbow you made… Was it a self bow or a laminated bow? While it is true that a recurve is a more efficient design that yields more velocity and generally better arrow performance, it isn’t THAT much.
If your longbow is well made and performing up to snuff, then you can always use a heavier arrow to achieve better penetration.
But my guess is that you should look toward the bow and make sure it is tillered well. The wood used to make the bow can have an affect as well. Not to mention humidity. Maybe all you need to do is wait for a dry day.
I don’t think another string will improve performance.
Keep playing with it and have fun. Even if this bow doesn’t yield good performance, don’t give up on longbows. They definitely hold their own in the woods.
How about a picture?
in reply to: Does this happen to you? Or am I the only one! #38544Patrick – While Progressive Lenses may be taxing, at least you can see through them. I expect Conservative or LIbertarian lenses are as clear as mud. Remember, you get what you pay for and there is no free lunch 😉
in reply to: Bow Season vs. Crossbows #36002SteveMcD wrote:
Bear Archery is heavily in the Crossbow market as well.I don’t think so… They started down that path several years ago, but decided not to produce crossbows. I am sure it was a business choice not a sportsman’s choice. But still, lets keep the facts straight… 🙂
What we have here is a slippery slope. Where does the line get drawn? I think the clearest distinction left to us down this slope is to say that – a bow must be drawn and held by the archer in the presence of game. If the weapon doesn’t meet this simple clear definition, it isn’t a bow. That’s my humble opinion. and I am sticking to it.
in reply to: feather orientation #34795Maybe, Maybe not. I am no wood arrow expert. But when I make wood arrows, I like to have the grain running side to side. This gives the greatest strength in the plane of the archers paradox.
I do not use arrows that have grain runout within a foot of the back of the arrow. With that said, it doesn’t matter if the arrows are oriented “up” or “down”. They work the same.
I found for wood, that using 4 fletch actually makes the arrows last longer and fly better. When you shoot a wood arrow the same way over and over, they tend to bend and take a set. When you randomly stress the arrow in opposing orientations, they seem to stay straight longer for me.
in reply to: 40 # recurve and Ultra-EFOC arrow search #34785How much left?
One of the good characteristics of extreme front of center arrows is that they correct very quickly. If your bare arrow is not acting too crazy, I would fletch one up and shoot it. You may find that it flies just great.
I’m a little confused by your description of spine. The arrows are gold tips right? Gold Tip measures their spine by poundage range like 55-75. Beaman measures their spine in inches of deflection like .500. Are they beaman’s or gold tips?
My gut tells me a 700+ grain arrow just won’t do well out of a 40 lb bow no matter what you do. Mostly because the bow will take so long to relax, giving you a lot of time after release to adversely affect the arrow’s flight. Just a guess.
in reply to: Saponification #33520Maybe next year. I’ll improve my technique a bit, and take pictures…
Have to harvest a few more deer, I used up all the tallow in the one batch.
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