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in reply to: DIY Beaver tail armguard? #19793
What a good use for an old beaver tail!
If you tan the tail and it gets soft, it may not hold up as an armguard. It’s a bit thin I think. Maybe you could overlay it onto a piece of cow leather to stiffen it up.
Beaver tail is good for grips because it is thin and can be worked to the curves of the handle. This same property will make it a poor armguard in the long run I am afraid unless you glue it to something stiffer…
I have done some alum tanning and it isn’t too difficult. If you want further details on that I can add some notes. Or you could just use it as raw hide. Since flexibility isn’t a requirement.
Scrape as much fat off the tail as you can. Wash the tail in some dawn dishwashing liquid to get the rest out. Soak the tail in a heavy salt solution for a few days. Pin it to a board till dry. Then cut out what you want for your armguard and you are good to go.
Once the armguard is done, apply some leather waterproofing to it.
Make a second armguard, and send to me.
in reply to: Couple Bowfishing ?'s #19208Don’t over think it. Just go.
Bowfishing is stinky hot mucky slimy fun. Don’t spend too much time dooding up your gear. Leave the arrows alone. No need to sharpen anything but the actual point. Use a file.
Hardest part is finding a good place to go. Once that’s done, nothing left to do but make a mess. If you have a garden, it will love the fish.
in reply to: What spine? #17623In my humble opinion, the weight forward design is a gimmick. It doesn’t really do much to affect the front of center for the arrow.
If you are interested in increasing your front of center with a carbon arrow, the best way to do that is to find a shaft that is as light as possible for your required spine. Then when you add your insert and heavy point, you will be moving the FOC in the right direction.
I hope this has persuaded you to look towards a different arrow. But if not, to answer your question directly, I think you need go no higher than a 250 spine arrow.
in reply to: The Silent Arrow #15370katman wrote: Steve, While your combo quieter I fail to see how you increased efficiency. 😀
O.L. Adcock is credited with coming up with the turbulator. He reason for using it was to reduce the air friction on the arrow. His reasoning was proven correct as he won many shooting distance records with it.
Another way of looking at it is that noise is a form of energy. If the arrow is creating noise as it moves through the air, it is bleeding off velocity to convert it into noise. So less noise means more efficient transfer of initial energy and momentum to the terminal impact.
But really none of this matters. I was just hoping to share my experience with the turbulators and how impressive they are at reducing the sound of the arrow. It’s a low tech way to achieve a high tech result. It doesn’t cost a penny (if you have a role of tape laying around) and it’s way cool to hear the difference in your arrows 8)
Now I have to figure out if duct tape is available in any color but silver…
in reply to: Aluminums by Tru-Flite??? #14203Tru-Flite used to be Eastons biggest distributor. But times got tight and Easton needed to improve it’s profit margin. So they bought Tru-Flight and thus were able to sell directly to dealers and take the extra margin.
in reply to: The Silent Arrow #14196katman wrote:
On first thought and I may be all wrong since I am not an engineer, you find the larger fletching more stable and quieter because the larger turbulator actually deflects air from the feather reducing not only noise but also stabilizing effect. I remember OL talking about breaking up the laminar flow with the turbulator and how little it takes. The one he describes actually increases the fletch ability to stabilize so less fletch is needed.It would take wind tunnel tests to prove conclusively what the turbulator is doing. But it is a safe guess to say that it is tripping the air flow before it gets to the fletching. Since the feathers are not exposed to a transition from laminar to turbulent flow, there are probably fewer vortices created. Fewer vortices means more efficient fletching.
Exactly what happens really doesn’t matter. What does matter is that the turbulator improves the efficiency of the arrow and thus reduces its noise. Some people take advantage of this effect to reduce the length of their fletching. That’s fine.
For me, I decided to keep my 5 inch fletching and take advantage of an even better arrow than I had before. As Ashby would say, I want to maximize the arrow’s terminal performance…. as quietly as possible. 😀
in reply to: The Silent Arrow #14190Pothunter wrote: could you use a rubber ‘O’ ring and glue it into position or is the profile not sharp enough.
Mark.Mark – Yes, I did use an 0-ring in the experiments (read earlier post) and I found that it was the most quiet arrow I tested, but not by much. I had no need to glue it down, as the friction of its squeeze on the shaft was enough to hold it in place.
The only negative is that if you shoot through a bale or target up to the 0-ring, it might get pulled off the arrow and stay in the target as you remove the arrow from the target.
I ended up using duct tape cause it is convenient, plentiful, and cheap.
I’m really looking forward to this season to see how the deer react to this arrow. Heck, I may shoot some blunts past a deer to see how they react to the noise…
in reply to: The Silent Arrow #13100I will answer your questions if I understand them corectly:
Fletching – Shield cut
4″X1/8″ duct tape wrap – I experimented with a single wrap of tape (about an inch) all the way up to the 4 inches I settled on. The bump isn’t at all too big. What I found is that the larger I got with the “bump”, the quieter the arrow got. I even used an o-ring that was close to 1/8″ thick in front of the fletching. Truth be told, the 0-ring was the quietest arrow.
Fletch Length – I tested quietness of the 5 inch and 4 inch and 3 inch fletching with the 4 inch duct tape wrap. No difference between 5 and 4 inch. Ever so slight between 5 and 3 inch. I did notice that the arrow flight got worse with the shorter fletching if I did anything wrong (which I am apt to do). So on length, you must judge for yourself. For me, I keep absolute stable arrow flight and trade away some fletching length.
Wet Feathers – I shoot wild turkey feathers from local wild turkeys. I don’t have problems with them laying down in the rain. With that said, I rarely hunt in the rain if I can help it. So I can’t answer that. But I can recommend a product called “No Snow”. It is a water repellent that only has to be applied once to the feathers and really keeps them dry. I used it on store bought feathers and never had them lay down. In addition, when I shot the arrow through a deer, the feathers stayed clean of blood, and the arrow could simply be rinsed off and reused.
in reply to: Hickory or Osage #11979Cody you are walking through land mines!!!!
But let me answer your question with another question. Which are better, blonds or brunettes? As you can see, just asking a question like this invites all sorts of trouble…
My advice to you is to experiment with both types of wom ooops wood and decide which is best suited to you. They both have their merits and their limitations. But the bottom line is they are both wonderful and deserve our love and respect.
in reply to: Moose scouting pics… #11973Deer and moose and elk, oh my! What a place to live. And brother wolf to keep you company too.
Great pictures, great day. Thanks I needed that. And good luck with your calf hunt!
in reply to: Bow Season vs. Crossbows #11949SteveMcD wrote: I completely disagree with you on this one, and many others would too. The Limbs on a Compound if you could call them that, provide no power or energy to the arrow, they are simply extensions to all allow clearance for the Pulley Wheels and Cables. The Compound limbs serve no other function.
The limbs of a traditional bow and compound bow function in the same way: as springs to store energy. Without these springs, the cables and pulleys of a compound bow would serve no purpose.
Peace!!! we need not argue the merits of the compound bow. For we both agree they are not for us.
in reply to: Bow Season vs. Crossbows #10890SteveMcD wrote: Truthfully, the Compound is no more a Bow than a crossbow is. A mechanical machine that launches an arrow.
It’s about function. The most basic definition of a bow used to hunt states that “a bow must be drawn and held by the hunter in the presence of game” By this definition of function, a crossbow is not a bow. But a compound is a bow.
Whether we like to admit it or not, a compound bow functions exactly like a traditional bow. The only real difference is that the draw curve looks different.
Speaking as a person who spent the last year working very hard to keep crossbows out of North Carolina and failing, I can tell you the writing is on the wall. I doubt very much there will be a primitive season at all in the next 10 years anywhere in the south.
It’s the same old story. When a country goes into decline, it looses respect for its resources. Deer are now seen as a pest with benefits. The state can earn income by selling licenses to decimate the pest population. You can always tell when the state falls on hard times here. People start to clear cuts their land to earn a few extra bucks so they can pay their property taxes.
Economic trouble aside, I don’t see a way to keep crossbows out of the archery season. And I don’t see a way of preserving the archery season in the future.
Archery is being marginalized in North Carolina. Maybe the benefit is that when there is no archery season, only the truly devoted will continue to hunt this way. We will return to the days dressing in green, smiling, and having fun.
After all it has been sung: “Freedom’s just another word for nothing left to loose!”
Enjoy your freedom boys!
in reply to: Drawn for Moose!!! #62853Where will you be hunting? Is it a split tag, meaning 2 or more guys hunt, 1 guy gets lucky?
I’ve shot a few moose, but never had a calf tag. Just bull or cow. I’ve not seen moose linger around after a shot. But you are right to not under estimate a mothers attentions toward her young. I would guess that a moose would fall somewhere between a deer doe and a bear sow. Probably closer to the doe.
But even if the cow shows no malice toward you, her size is enough to warrant attention.
You may find it more of a challenge to take a calf than is first thought…. Good luck.
in reply to: Opinions – What would you guys do? #61759You boys are depressing.
There must be some reason the two of you wanted to hunt together. Some connection of friendship? If there is no friendship between you, then why hunt together anyway?
If there is a friendship, then the next thing is compromise. Get some lama’s to help bring the stuff into camp. And as was said before, communicate. Work it out, or don’t.
There are many reasons to hunt. When I am hunting for food, I usually go alone. When I am hunting for fun, I usually do it with friends. It is a rare friend that you can hunt with for both food and fun. I have exactly 1 friend that meets both these criteria. But it took us 20 years of hunting to get to that place…
So decide what you want from this trip. Talk it out. Then do what you need to. Maybe you two should take this trip, or maybe you should start with deer or something else to get your hunting partnership warmed up…
in reply to: Anxious Dreams #58265Sounds like that regal beast has already given you 3 seasons of anticipation, purpose, and yes fun. This year he will be the true master of the wood. 8)
I hope this will be the year that the “Gods of the Woods will chuckle, and rub their hands together” for you!
But if they don’t, I know that it will not have been a waste of time or purpose.
Good luck to you… And good luck to master buck!
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