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in reply to: Critter Stories #15925
Steve, your squirrel on the wall story reminds me of another similar story…
I was fishing along a river and sitting under this big oak tree. The roots of the tree extended over the water. As I sat there a squirrel worked his way down the tree to an acorn that was sitting on the end of the roots. He hesitated as he went out over the water, but the acorn was just too tempting.
Just as the squirrel calmed down and started eating the acorn, a hugh gar jumped clear out of the water, over the root, caught the gar in his mouth, and splashed back in the river! It was the most amazing thing I have seen!
About 5 minutes later… The same gar came up out of the water and put another acorn on the root 😯 😆 🙄 😳
in reply to: carbon arrow selection #15919Carbon Xpress 350’s are heavy and they would be way over spined for your bow weight. The 250’s or even 150’s would be better.
Being heavy shafts, they are hard to get much FOC with. But they are very tough shafts. There are lots of good arrows out there…
Gold tip makes a good, fairly light, not too expensive arrow. If you want wood grain, then their traditional arrows look good. If you are willing to go with black, then their arrows are pretty light.
Speaking of light, the carbon tech white tails are a bit lighter than the gold tips…
Bottom line, whatever arrows you decide on, look at the manufacturers arrow chart and make sure you pick a spine that matches your bow (recurve), weight(56) and draw (31)
in reply to: Arrow Dynamics arrows, which model? #15908Troy,
Woops. Not Carbon Impact, but Carbon Tech. They aren’t as cheap as I thought either. 3Rivers sells them by the half dozen. About the same price as grizzlies I think…
but still interesting. Maybe no seam troubles like the grizzly sticks…
sg
in reply to: Arrow Dynamics arrows, which model? #14834Carbon Impact also sells tapered shafts at a much better price. I think I read in the description that the arrows don’t require special nocks. Which is interesting.
In my limited experience with them, I found tapered shafts to be too finicky. Horace Ford says in his book that he tried them all and parallel shafts are the way to go.
in reply to: A&A Fletching #11394I was interested in these short fletchings because I wanted to try to get more fletch from each feather. Maybe this wasn’t a good reason.
I finally figured out why I couldn’t follow the arrow in flight so well as my usual arrows. My usual arrows spin so fast, that the back end looks like a semi-solid disk the diameter of the fletch. The A&A don’t spin nearly so fast, and so my eye had to settle on the actual fletch to see them. Once I realized this, I could easily follow the arrows.
I increased the length of the fletching to 3 inches and the arrow behaved better. But it just doesn’t give me the forgiveness of my usual arrows. And as my wife says, I need all the forgiveness I can get 😳
But I am getting a take away from this. I started adding the turbulator to my arrows last year with measurable results. Now I am adding the straight back edge to my regular fletching. this moves the feather closer to the nock and gets rid of the “non working” length at the back of the fletch.
I was way off on my FOC calculation. I believe I said I had 28%. In truth, it is 21%. Experimenting to see what it would take to get me to 30%, I found that the needed additional weight was not acceptable to me.
It’s been a while since I gave my arrows the hairy eyeball. It was fun to fiddle and get a little something out of it. I thought later this summer (after my bear hunt in May) I may get some carbon impact whitetail shafts that have a weight of about 5 gpi (about half my GT 9.something gpi) and see if I can get the FOC better without making the arrows weight more than 13 gpp.
in reply to: How Was Your Winter? #8045I heat with wood. Normally I go through a little over 2 cords of wood to heat my little cabin. This year, we barely burned a quarter cord.
Garden insect pests didn’t get killed off this year. Looks like the first to show themselves are cutworms eating the roots of early crops like broccoli.
Groundhogs are starting to show their sleepy little noggins already. Looks like it’s about time to start chasing my arch garden nemesis 😀
in reply to: feather hitting hand #62338I had a bow that bit when first set up. I had to lower the nock set on the string to achieve good arrow flight, and the bite went away…
in reply to: hunting for finished osage bow cheap #61284Here’s one from my neck of the woods. Poet, Actor, Bowyer, etc.
in reply to: A&A Fletching #61272Thanks for the tips!
The fletching is 2 1/2″ long now. As suggested I’ll increase 1/4″ and try again…
I can group my bare shafts as well as fletched shafts, as King says. So hopefully just a little more fletching will do.
Do you fiddle with the height of the fletching too? or just keep it at 1/2 inch?
in reply to: A&A Fletching #60087OK, so I know I will get hammered for this, but here goes:
I’ve got about 28% foc on my arrow (I gained about 1% by using the short AA fletching). I also had to balance my jo-jan fletcher feather clamps while making the arrow as they were unbalanced with the short fletch and the back end wanted to lift off… No big deal, just unexpected…
I shot the arrow at my usual practice distance of about 19 yds and everything looked good. It was sort of disconcerting because I could not follow the arrow as well as with my normal length fletching.
Then I moved to my deer target. I have a spot where I can shoot through some small juniper branches that are 6 ft or so in front of the target. When I did this, the arrow ended up stuck in the nose of the target. I repeated several more times, but it only happened once. It has never happened with my regular arrows. My normal experience is that high foc arrows pile drive through thin brush without deviation.
Then I took the arrow on my archery night out at the local shop. I shot the arrow for about 3 hours, along with my other arrows which are the same except for the fletching length. I found that if I had a crappy release (I am very familiar with crappy releases :oops:) that should have had my arrow a couple inches off the mark, it ended up being 6 or 7 inches off the mark.
The arrows bare shaft tune like darts. What am I doing wrong? Is 28% not enough?
in reply to: Side cut vs center cut bow shelves #58850Drink one for me!
in reply to: d97 string stretch and other stuff #57773No worries on the string. It will settle down after a while.
in reply to: Side cut vs center cut bow shelves #57770I’ll take a swing at your second question first… When the bow and arrow are tuned to each other, it doesn’t matter what the shelf depth is. In fact, many primitive bows do not have shelves at all, and the archer simply shoots off his/her knuckle. As you alluded to, the archers paradox allows the arrow to fly around the bow and head in a straight line to the target.
When a bow/arrow is tuned correctly, they all shoot the same. Simply look down the arrow and loose.
Now to your first question- Bows that have a deeper shelf are said to be easier to tune. Meaning a wider range of arrow spine will fly well out of them. Usually stiffer arrows work better with deeper shelfs. Narrow shelfs generally benefit from weaker spined arrows. And you can adjust the depth of the arrow shelf by adding material to your side plate to push the arrow out if the arrow’s spine is weak…
in reply to: A&A Fletching #57763Dr. Ed Ashby wrote:
The only set features of the A&A pattern are: (1) The fletching has a straight, vertical cut at the rear, with a 1/2″ height; (2) it has a straight taper from the rear to the front; (3) it is applied as a straight fletch, with no helical and no offset; (4) it incorporates the turbulator placed 1/4″ forward of the fletchings leading edge and; (5) it is individually tuned to the particular EFOC or UEFOC arrow you are building up – that determines the length of the fletching you can use.
Ed
Thanks. That’s what I needed.
But item 3 is a little worrying. No helical and no offset means no spin. That’s how we used to shoot musket balls back in the good old days…
I guess if you shoot arrows with no offset and no helical, you can mix up left and right hand feathers and you can shoot single bevel broadheads of either wing too…?
Why get rid of the helical and offset? Is there some other affect adding to the stability of the arrow that compensates for taking away the inertial stability of rotation?
in reply to: Latest Arrow Creations #55690It’s a heavy responsibility to shoot and lose that many arrows…
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