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in reply to: THE WEAK LINK #13733
This is somewhat before my time, so maybe I wasn’t interpreting the picture correctly, but I have seen video of the early screw in points from Bear Archery on some of the old Bear movies. These may be the “answer”
Instead of an #8 threaded shaft used to connect the point to the arrow, it appeared to be closer to the diameter of the arrow. at least a 1/4-32 or maybe even 5/16’s or so. I don’t know what was left to cut threads into in the shaft, but the threaded end of the point sure was big.
I’ve never had an aluminum broadhead insert fail. But I have had 4 or 5 steel ones bend. They always bend in the same place – the shoulder of the threaded part bends.
Joe – The last one that bent was my last little trip in Hawaii when I shot a little piggy. I’d be happy to send that insert to you for analysis (if I can find it). It may be a little bloody 😯
in reply to: Yea,,, I know I'm pushing the limits #12669Very nice Troy.
in reply to: Tuning Thoughts #11468I used to use the brass inserts (and in fact most of my arrows still have them) But recently I have gone back to the aluminum inserts that came with the arrow For 3 Reasons:
1. Cheaper – why pay for something that you get for free with the arrows?
2. More FOC – by going back to the aluminum inserts, I can make my broadheads heavier for the same arrow and increase the FOC just a little bit more.
3. Arrow Footing – I put a 1.25″ (or so) aluminum collar over the end of my arrow shafts which is often referred to as an external footing. This increases the strength of the shaft so that the extra strength of the brass insert is no longer necessary.
Note – the 55-75 shafts are about 2 inches longer than your 35-55’s. I like the extra length. Don’t forget to consider that in your plans…
Ah tink Ah felt ma ears burnen…
We have a fellow that shows up for our Tuesday night shoots with an ACS bow. They really don’t look much different than a normal trad bow.
There was an interview in a recent TBM about A&H archery that might be helpful too.
I didn’t shoot the bow because it is a 65 lb bow which is way out of my universe. So I can’t really say anything about it beyond that.
in reply to: Fred Bears archery man #11436I don’t know what you mean about archery man, but here’s a good site for some history:
in reply to: Flemish Strings #10416If the string looks good, it is good 😀
in reply to: Snake Skins on Bow Question #9284If they are under the finish, then, as you surmised, there is nothing to do. If they are over the finish, then you may want to oil them from time to time. My guess is they are under the finish.
A quick email to black widow would answer this question definitively.
in reply to: The War of Arrows…. Great movie! #9277I’ve had it on our favorites list for a while, but haven’t convinced the kids or wife to watch it. Now I can tell them I heard it was really good.
Thanks for the ammo!
in reply to: Archery Library #55666Very cool. Thanks!
in reply to: Giving It Up #54558You guys don’t know what you are missing.
A good tree stand in the perfect tree is a thing of beauty. To find the perfect tree takes a combination of woodsmanship (ability to read the woods and know where the deer will go), aesthetics (who wants to sit in an ugly place?), craftsmanship (hanging a stand so it is sturdy, yet comfortable and ergonomic for you and the bow) and patience (to know you have done the right thing and will be rewarded).
But variety is the spice of life. So I like to mix things up and stalk around too (I call it stalking, I’m sure the critters call it raising a ruckus). But when it’s time to fill the freezer, hi-ho, hi-ho, its up the tree I go!
in reply to: How times change. #52281ausjim wrote: …Topics still hot for discussion here and now. It’s incredible that a quarter century later it is almost the exact same points of friction in debate… 🙂
When I was a young(er) man, I had the mistaken impression that the human struggle was for truth and love. But as I watch this same scenario repeat itself in all human endeavors, especially politics, I have to wonder about it myself. It seems that a lot of these questions, hopefully bigger questions than broadhead design, only get answered as each generation passes into the forbidden country.
Civilization, and broadhead design, seem to march steadily toward betterment when viewed over the eon’s. But when viewed over a single life, progress is unsteady.
So choose your best broadhead, and your best ideas. But keep your eyes wide open and reconsider each critically for reason and purpose every time you have a new experience or obtain new knowledge. And give your fellow man the benefit of the doubt.
in reply to: weight / foc #52274The thing to do is to increase your point weight. Add the weight needed to get your 650 grain desired arrow weight. Then retune by cutting the shaft till you get good bare shaft flight.
in reply to: Proper Length #48971I shoot 3 under and I like the bow to be even tillered. Meaning the distance from the back of the bow to the string is the same for the same point on each limb.
in reply to: New Blackwidow PSR III. Tunning problems #47986Firstly I didn’t check my typing in the previous post. I said “a couple hundred points” when I meant a couple hundred grains.
If you move the arrow up the string, you are changing how the bow casts the arrow. You can compensate for incorrect spine by moving the arrow up or down the string. Usually, if you move the arrow farther up the string you compensate for an underspined arrow. But that’s not always the case. I am just guessing, but I think you still need more weight to make that arrow fly right.
But if it was me, I’d get a weaker arrow and start over. By the time you get those 350’s flying right they will be heavier than the bow….
Those 350’s are thicker than 250’s as well. Which pushes them away from the riser and means they need to have a weaker spine to fly right.
But you are there, not me. So take these words as not worth much.
in reply to: New Blackwidow PSR III. Tunning problems #45659Those 350’s might be a bit over spined. I’m surprised you are getting good arrow flight at all. If you try a weaker shaft, or add a couple hundred points to the end, you might be able to lower your string nock set.
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