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I’m not a big fan of arm guards for all the reasons mentioned above. But I recently purchased the buffalo leather arm guard from 3Rivers.
It has 3 loops and 3 hooks to affix it to your arm. I like to have the smallest arm guard I can get away with. So I cut it down so that now I have 2 arm guards. 1 has a single loop and is only about 2 inches wide. The other has 2 loops and is 4 inches wide. I use the 4 inch one, but may switch to the 2 inch one, knowing exactly where the string from my low brace height long bow tends to bite me.
Anyway, the buffalo leather is very supple, but not flimsily. And it seems to have a good coefficient of friction to keep it where I put it. This summer we’ll see how hot it is…
Dave – put that extra knife in your backpack and forget about it man!
in reply to: Ohio making a big mistake,possibly… #43549If it’s anything like NC, you don’t stand much of a chance. The insurance companies want the deer dead. Fewer deer means fewer insurance claims, which means more profit.
They converted the last week of bow season here to black powder, which made the black powder season 2 weeks long in the prime of the rut.
They are passing rules now that anyone who owns 1 acre or more can kill deer without permit for depredation all year long.
The chairman of our Wildlife Commission said in an open meeting that he wished every elk and deer was dead.
Last year the changed the budget process so that hunting license sales go into the general fund instead of directly into the Wildlife Resource fund. Now the WRC budget can get cut every year, and the remaining funds can go to help subsidize fracking and sludge spreading over wild lands.
So don’t worry Ohio, no matter how bad you get, you will never catch up to NC!
in reply to: Moose (Not Chocolate)… #40071I’ve bear hunted and moose hunted in Quebec. I managed to get a 54″ moose with about 20 points I think, I’ll have to go check…
The area we were hunting in (south east) had a 2 for 1 rule. Meaning 2 people bought a license, only 1 got to shoot a moose. Some area’s of Quebec have a 4 to 1 rule. I don’t know if any area’s are 1 to 1. So that may be why he said there was a 50% success rate. Only 1 in 2 guys is allowed to shoot…
The rut in the Southern Part of Quebec is toward the later part of September. So if you go in the beginning of September, you will be in the pre rut time. The archery season was during the rut where we were hunting, which was nice.
I’ve also hunted in Newfoundland for Caribou. Which you can’t do anymore. But that would be my next choice for Moose. They have more moose than anywhere (smaller though) and the people are a real joy.
I flew there for my caribou trip, but I would drive for Moose. Too much meat not to drive.
If I am remembering correctly, licenses are over the counter and there is not much management going on. A lot of the moose in Quebec come from the US where there is better management. The farther north you go, the fewer moose you’ll see.
I say check out Newfoundland before making up your mind…
in reply to: What are your favorite trad pictures? #39305Well, not really too archery related other than I was going out when the neighbors came over… This is my little sweetheart. She kissed me once and said we were married. Now she’s a few years older and won’t give me the time of day:(
in reply to: Arrow Question #30368The little digital scales are cheap, easy to use, and accurate. I’d say put the pencil and paper away and get a scale. They come in handy for lots of stuff.
in reply to: Bow Tiller #30354If nothing works, I have found that building up the side plate and moving the arrow out can change things up. Build it up 1/8 inch or so by glueing a piece of scrap leather to the side plate.
I expect that buffalo is pretty much center cut, or even cut past center. I find this causes problems for my finger release. I have also found that it helps when the arrow appears to be over spined. Moving the arrow away from the bow does more to change the dynamics of the shot than any other adjustment you can make.
By building the side plate up, you will force the arrow to need to be weaker spined to fly well. So build the plate up, and see what happens. Then add some more weight to the front.
This is good in 3 ways:
1. May help fix your tuning issues
2. Increases arrow FOC for better flight
3. Increases arrow weight for better penetration.
I hope this helps.
in reply to: what quivers do you prefer? #28154I have an Eagles Flight flat quiver for 2 bladed broadheads on my bear take down. The bow is heavy already, so shooting isn’t affected by the quiver.
I have tried many quivers on my longbows, but none seem to work that well. I feel light longbows don’t shoot well with a quiver mounted on it. So I’ve used a variety of cheap side quivers. I’m thinking about a back quiver with a tab on it so that I could hang it from a hook when in a tree stand.
I am coming to the conclusion that long bows and back quivers belong together…
But I fear the long standing quiver question will never be answered once and for all.
in reply to: Trailing a Bear #27031I think I remember getting my copy from kustom king. I checked their website this am and the icon is indeed on the website under books. But when I clicked on it, it was no longer there. I guess it’s out of stock, or out of print. I know I didn’t pay 40 dollars for it though…
It’s a good read, I hope you can find it.
in reply to: Howdy and a Question #26016Most people get a bow that is too heavy for them to start with, myself included. It is better to start light and move up in weight as you have already surmised. Most strapping young men can handle 45 lbs easily, and so that is a popular starting weight.
And as you thoughtfully figured out, increasing weight by too much is a bad thing. 5 lbs is a pretty good increment and you will really feel it. 10 lbs is too much to increase imho.
And you really don’t need to get above 55lbs to hunt most anything that edible. So a 3 bow series is probably all you will need to go through.
That said, now that you are joining the toxophilite ranks, you may be bitten with the “got-to-have-another” bow disease. Traditional bow’s are so full of spirit, craftsmanship, and basic human joy that you may just have to have another, and another, and another…
And then of course, there is the joy of making bows too.
The good news is that used bows can be had pretty cheaply. Look around your area, and you will probably find a trad store with used bows.
in reply to: Built some arrows today #23845Good luck tomorrow. Sure would be a shame to get them all bloody…
in reply to: Game points for FOC arrows #20418Put a 1/4-20 washer behind your field point. Cheap, easy, and works just fine for stumping or rabbit thumping.
in reply to: THE WEAK LINK #18247vintage archer wrote: …STEVE and MUNSTERMAN Hardness probably is a contributing factor I agree with Munsterman hardening of adapters probably won’t get done…
Cost is relative. In small batches, I agree that the cost would probably be prohibitive. But in larger batches, it may not be. If I was in the business of selling inserts, I’d make a few phone calls, just to see. It doesn’t cost anything to ask: “where is your price break?”
I did a quick google search and found a couple shops offering a $75 min batch charge. For a 5000 part run, that’s about 1.5 cents/part (assuming that 5000 parts would be a minimum batch run). Plus shipping.
My experience with getting parts made is that it is cheaper to machine soft metal and then heat treat it, than it is to machine hard metal.
But like you say, there is always more than one way to skin a cat. What about a composite insert? Fill the end of an aluminum insert with lead? Get the weight of the steel inserts with the durability of the aluminum inserts…
I bet there is a community college near you that has the equipment to do a bending test on aluminum and steel inserts to definitively determine which is stronger…
in reply to: Grinding turkey feathers #18223I guess some people are more sensitive than others. I usually wear a respirator, but have forgotten it from time to time.
After your story, I’ll endeavor to remember it every time!
in reply to: '59 Bear Kodiak replica #18216mhay wrote: Steve, would you be willing to elaborate more on the ”LONGEVITY”?
The question of the late model Bear bows being capable of lasting many years has always plagued my thoughts . That along with my 2012 S.K. delaminating after only 12 months is a little more than disturbing .
I fear this topic may hijack the thread… So I’ll keep it short. My experience with new bear bows runs exactly 2 bows deep. And both those bows delaminated. 1 after a season of use, the other after 50 shots. From reading other forums, my experience was not all that unusual. That’s all I’ve got to say about that.
in reply to: '59 Bear Kodiak replica #17120AlexBugnon wrote: I don’t know about you guys, but the only reason that has kept me from NOT buying a new, leather handle, brown glass new ’59 Kodiak, is my choice 3 years ago to be a one (long)bow shooting guy…
I like having several bows. Why deny yourself the joy of diversity? I like being able to switch it up and shoot different bows/arrows. Just like I like to change my shirt from time to time… keeps people wondering who’s that coming down the road?
I guess when it comes to women, you have to pick one and stick with her. But there is no such requirement or delusion when it comes to bows (or guns,or…). All this said assuming it’s an affordable luxury to you. If not, that’s another story.
I say, go for it! But be careful. Those Gainsville bows don’t have the longevity they used to have in Fred’s day. Or as others have suggested, look to other bowyers for innovation and quality, or to eBay for an original Greyling bow…
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