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in reply to: Arrow Question #30368
The little digital scales are cheap, easy to use, and accurate. I’d say put the pencil and paper away and get a scale. They come in handy for lots of stuff.
in reply to: Bow Tiller #30354If nothing works, I have found that building up the side plate and moving the arrow out can change things up. Build it up 1/8 inch or so by glueing a piece of scrap leather to the side plate.
I expect that buffalo is pretty much center cut, or even cut past center. I find this causes problems for my finger release. I have also found that it helps when the arrow appears to be over spined. Moving the arrow away from the bow does more to change the dynamics of the shot than any other adjustment you can make.
By building the side plate up, you will force the arrow to need to be weaker spined to fly well. So build the plate up, and see what happens. Then add some more weight to the front.
This is good in 3 ways:
1. May help fix your tuning issues
2. Increases arrow FOC for better flight
3. Increases arrow weight for better penetration.
I hope this helps.
in reply to: what quivers do you prefer? #28154I have an Eagles Flight flat quiver for 2 bladed broadheads on my bear take down. The bow is heavy already, so shooting isn’t affected by the quiver.
I have tried many quivers on my longbows, but none seem to work that well. I feel light longbows don’t shoot well with a quiver mounted on it. So I’ve used a variety of cheap side quivers. I’m thinking about a back quiver with a tab on it so that I could hang it from a hook when in a tree stand.
I am coming to the conclusion that long bows and back quivers belong together…
But I fear the long standing quiver question will never be answered once and for all.
in reply to: Trailing a Bear #27031I think I remember getting my copy from kustom king. I checked their website this am and the icon is indeed on the website under books. But when I clicked on it, it was no longer there. I guess it’s out of stock, or out of print. I know I didn’t pay 40 dollars for it though…
It’s a good read, I hope you can find it.
in reply to: Howdy and a Question #26016Most people get a bow that is too heavy for them to start with, myself included. It is better to start light and move up in weight as you have already surmised. Most strapping young men can handle 45 lbs easily, and so that is a popular starting weight.
And as you thoughtfully figured out, increasing weight by too much is a bad thing. 5 lbs is a pretty good increment and you will really feel it. 10 lbs is too much to increase imho.
And you really don’t need to get above 55lbs to hunt most anything that edible. So a 3 bow series is probably all you will need to go through.
That said, now that you are joining the toxophilite ranks, you may be bitten with the “got-to-have-another” bow disease. Traditional bow’s are so full of spirit, craftsmanship, and basic human joy that you may just have to have another, and another, and another…
And then of course, there is the joy of making bows too.
The good news is that used bows can be had pretty cheaply. Look around your area, and you will probably find a trad store with used bows.
in reply to: Built some arrows today #23845Good luck tomorrow. Sure would be a shame to get them all bloody…
in reply to: Game points for FOC arrows #20418Put a 1/4-20 washer behind your field point. Cheap, easy, and works just fine for stumping or rabbit thumping.
in reply to: THE WEAK LINK #18247vintage archer wrote: …STEVE and MUNSTERMAN Hardness probably is a contributing factor I agree with Munsterman hardening of adapters probably won’t get done…
Cost is relative. In small batches, I agree that the cost would probably be prohibitive. But in larger batches, it may not be. If I was in the business of selling inserts, I’d make a few phone calls, just to see. It doesn’t cost anything to ask: “where is your price break?”
I did a quick google search and found a couple shops offering a $75 min batch charge. For a 5000 part run, that’s about 1.5 cents/part (assuming that 5000 parts would be a minimum batch run). Plus shipping.
My experience with getting parts made is that it is cheaper to machine soft metal and then heat treat it, than it is to machine hard metal.
But like you say, there is always more than one way to skin a cat. What about a composite insert? Fill the end of an aluminum insert with lead? Get the weight of the steel inserts with the durability of the aluminum inserts…
I bet there is a community college near you that has the equipment to do a bending test on aluminum and steel inserts to definitively determine which is stronger…
in reply to: Grinding turkey feathers #18223I guess some people are more sensitive than others. I usually wear a respirator, but have forgotten it from time to time.
After your story, I’ll endeavor to remember it every time!
in reply to: '59 Bear Kodiak replica #18216mhay wrote: Steve, would you be willing to elaborate more on the ”LONGEVITY”?
The question of the late model Bear bows being capable of lasting many years has always plagued my thoughts . That along with my 2012 S.K. delaminating after only 12 months is a little more than disturbing .
I fear this topic may hijack the thread… So I’ll keep it short. My experience with new bear bows runs exactly 2 bows deep. And both those bows delaminated. 1 after a season of use, the other after 50 shots. From reading other forums, my experience was not all that unusual. That’s all I’ve got to say about that.
in reply to: '59 Bear Kodiak replica #17120AlexBugnon wrote: I don’t know about you guys, but the only reason that has kept me from NOT buying a new, leather handle, brown glass new ’59 Kodiak, is my choice 3 years ago to be a one (long)bow shooting guy…
I like having several bows. Why deny yourself the joy of diversity? I like being able to switch it up and shoot different bows/arrows. Just like I like to change my shirt from time to time… keeps people wondering who’s that coming down the road?
I guess when it comes to women, you have to pick one and stick with her. But there is no such requirement or delusion when it comes to bows (or guns,or…). All this said assuming it’s an affordable luxury to you. If not, that’s another story.
I say, go for it! But be careful. Those Gainsville bows don’t have the longevity they used to have in Fred’s day. Or as others have suggested, look to other bowyers for innovation and quality, or to eBay for an original Greyling bow…
in reply to: from the home page #17106I too thought it was odd to have a survey on a question that had many more answers than the ones provided…
I use the same silicon grease I use for bearings. But I like the idea of using bore butter.
in reply to: THE WEAK LINK #16012The yield strength of 6061 T6 Aluminum is very close to that of low carbon steel. It can be higher than some mild steels. 6061 T6 is the most commonly machined alloy for archery equipment.
There are even stronger aluminum’s that could be used for broadhead inserts.
With that said Check out this link, especially the section on impact hardness…
http://www.aldonco.com/Portals/0/docs/AlumvsSteel.pdf
I don’t know if what it claims about impact hardness is true or not (it’s claim 6061T6 is the strongest alloy is false), but it seems true to me, and comports with my experience.
The yield strength of steel actually changes as it is stressed. The more it gets bent, the harder it gets… So when the yield strength of steel is talked about, they talk about the 2% yield point, or something like that. Meaning what is the YS after it has yielded 2%. After that point, it becomes a constant value up to it’s ultimate yield point. I’m digging deep into the dark reaches of days past, so I may not have it all correct here…
Bottom line is that if the steel adapters are not heat treated after manufacture, they could well be weaker than a run-o-the-mill 6061 T6 insert.
Heat treating is cheap and easy. 3Rivers and others should ask their manufacturer to heat treat steel inserts.
in reply to: THE WEAK LINK #14893vintage archer wrote:
Do you recall when you retrieved your arrow if there was any sign the adapter loosened at the insert joint?
How heavy of a arrow were you using and how much wt forward. Just curious.
No way. After it happened the first time, I have always made sure there was no way the arrow would loosen (a loose broadhead seemed like the most likely cause). And I have studied the results when the insert bent, every time. What I have found is that:
1. The broadhead is undamaged
2. The shoulder of the insert is stretched an narrowed on the tension side of the bend.
3. The bend is in line with the plane of the broadhead.
I haven’t mic’d any inserts, but I wonder if the shoulder of the steel adapters is more narrow than aluminum adapters?
I have noticed that the relief between the body of the adapter and the shoulder is 90 Deg on steel adapters and 45 deg on aluminum adapters. I am sure this is a weight reducing measure. But it also reduces the strength of the steel adapters.
My guess is the problem is a combination of poor geometry and low carbon steel.
Arrow wt about 680 grn, FOC about 22%
in reply to: Arrow of Light #14883Here’s another more dedicated site…
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