Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
in reply to: Duiker quiver #53757
Smithhammer wrote:
I bet that once you stick some foam in there for the heads, it will minimize the shafts rattling around. I’ve also found with my Duiker that the quiver hood is handy for silencing my arrows – I just tuck it down a little around the nocks, and between that and having the heads stuck into the foam, they don’t more or make a sound. I’m sure it would be easy to fashion a little hood that attaches to the top of the quiver.
Copy that. I expect I can make it quiet one way or another. So far the sock is actually pretty good. And as you say, adding the foam in the bottom will do a lot.
I’m leery of a quiver hood just because I want to be able to stick arrows back into the quiver without fooling around or taking the pack off. I’m a compulsive stump shooter, and you never know when a rascally rabbit (or grouse) might come by…
in reply to: Duiker quiver #53746By all means, come on down and verify. And take it back with you when you go 😯
in reply to: Duiker quiver #53006I found the quiver noisy when I was walking through the woods with it. It rides vertically on my side, so the arrows are not laid down and rattle about. I tried various positions to get the quiver to ride at an angle, but nothing was comfortable.
So I took my wife advice and stuffed a sock in it 😳
That seems to work. I’ll give it another go today. When I pull an arrow out, the sock tends to come with it. But it is easy enough to stuff back in.
in reply to: The Intricate Process Of Making Arrows From Bamboo #51782Very interesting! There’s a really good build along somewhere or other, maybe I can find for making bamboo arrows. A little easier than what was shown, no fish glue…
I wonder what they used to get their feathers glued down. It looked like the feathers just wanted to be attached to the shaft.
in reply to: Duiker quiver #51686DK wrote: Steve,
That would be great. I would like to see how you attach my it to your day pack…
As requested…
The body is made from 4″ PVC drain pipe. It’s thin walled, and I had it laying around. I cut it to the longest length I could fit in the oven. Waited till the wife was gone, and stuck it in at 200 deg. After about 5 minutes it was soft. I took it out and laid it on a board. It took an oval shape of it’s own accord.
The bottom is just a piece of 3/8 plywood glued in. I plan on putting some foam on top of that.
I lined the quiver with the leg of my daughters old jeans. The outside is covered with some Mossy Oak cloth that our own Duncan generously gave to me several years ago. I’ve been hording the cloth till a worthy project came along. Thanks Duncan!!
The clips are pop rived on. I added a washer under the rivet on the inside to make sure it didn’t pull out. I also added a “stay” at the top of the clip to keep it from rotating. I couldn’t find any clips that had 2 holes in them. And I don’t have the tooling to drill into spring steel. so I just bent some #12 copper wire into a staple shape and wrapped it around the top of the clip. I soldered the two ends together.
The clips are positioned to take advantage of some straps on my backpack.
You could add some sort of fletching cover to it if you wanted. My fletching protection plan involves staying in camp with my buddy George Dickle (bottoms up!) if it rains.
I’m going to give her a try in the snow later today 😀




in reply to: Handle on a Samick Sage #51555A wrap on grip might be easier than a pull on grip for a take down recurve. For example: http://www.3riversarchery.com/Bow+Grip+Skin_i5604_baseitem.html
There are some leather ones too at 3Rivers.
Alternatively, you can go to a store that sells racquetball rackets and/or tennis rackets and get the wrap on grip intended for rackets.
in reply to: Planning an Elk Hunt #50480Patrick wrote: …I’m hoping my son really bulks up in the next couple years so he can carry most of our gear. 😆
Spot On!
My boy and I are taking a back country trout fishing trip this summer. So I had him trying on some of my hiking boots and going through my back packs. I picked the two out we are taking and had him try one on. He said “But dad, my pack is twice as big as your pack”. To which I replied “good eye boy, good eye.”
in reply to: Flying Geese Tips #49372Shooting tundra swan is a thing here. The guys that do it (not me) buy cheap chinese knockoff broad heads. I don’t think it much matters what broadhead you use. They use the cheap ones cause if it doesn’t hit swan, it goes in the dirt. And it takes a lot of shots to hit one.
I’d rather spot and stalk a canada goose 😯
‘cept they eat like wet shoe.
in reply to: Winter Rove #49365Our possum is named bob.
in reply to: What ya got goin? #49362Sounds like a good life grumpy!
As for where the snow goes, it’s gonna flood bad this year I would guess.
poor moose and deer in the mean time.
Keep those birdies fed! they are greedy little buggers ain’t they? This is the time of year when ours eat two or three times as much as normal. I guess the natural feed is about spent.
Nearly stepped on a big fat woodcock a couple days ago. Then my wife threw some dusty old “how to hunt” book on my side of the bed. I guess it must have been under the bed. Anyway it flipped open to woodcock.
Here’s what I learned: They are a sea bird that no longer lives at the sea. Their eyes are on the top of their head so they can keep their beak in the mud looking for worms. As a consequence, their brain is pushed back down to the bottom of the scull, and is actually upside down.
in reply to: Duiker quiver #48262I’ve been wanting to take my longbow with me on my elk hunts out west. But I’ve not been able to work out the quiver problem. So I end up with my recurve and a bow quiver.
I am working on a quiver which will clip to my day pack. Basically the same design as shown in this thread, but made to clip to the side of the daypack. fewer straps and craps 😀
I am awaiting a delivery of belt clips from amazon, so when they arrive I’ll get it together and see if it works. If it does, I’ll attach a picture.
in reply to: Eastern Elk #48254cpbiv wrote: … A guy shot a bull this past year that had migrated down into Virginia where I grew up, so maybe one of these days the elk will be re-established in the East. I just hope I’ll see it.
Virginia used to allow people to shoot Elk using a deer tag. About 20 elk were harvested every year that had their origins in the Tennessee herd. The DNR tested these elk for CWD and never found any. So they warmed up to allowing Elk to reestablish in VA.
That said, it has been illegal for 3 years now to shoot elk in some counties as they are now trying to restore a herd: http://www.dgif.virginia.gov/hunting/regulations/elk.asp
in reply to: Winter Rove #48247Yes, great stuff! and Great Shooting! But what is the last set of tracks? Looks like something draggin tail.
in reply to: Carbon vs. Hardwood #47224Doc Nock wrote: After a few private correspondences with Kevin at FW, I stand corrected…)
This is an interesting topic. I’d like to hear what you learned… It is my understanding that it takes a hundred years or more for teak, mahogany, ipe to reach commercial value.
It is also my understanding that what happens is that the rain forest is cleared, then the land is grazed till grass won’t grow, then it is planted in a “tree farm”. And companies claim their wood is tree farm raised as long as they plant as many acres of trees as they clear rain forest.
Rain forest and tree farms do not have the same ecological value.
Here’s a quote from an article: “Twenty years later, the plantation is one of the most sustainable tree farms in the country. Thousands of mahogany trees that the family planted stand tall and sturdy, but it may take five to 10 more years before they mature, and another 30 years before they reach full commercial potential, Mario Jr. says.”
Adds up to 60 years before farm produces wood. There were no farms 60 years ago. Thus no tropical woods like those mentioned above are really farm raised.
Here’s the article : http://business.inquirer.net/15361/money-grows-from-tree-farming
Not trying to have a battle, just want to learn more and understand better.
in reply to: Changing Wood Arrows Points #47211I don’t bother cleaning them. I just heat them up till I see whatever is in there burn off. Haven’t had any fall off yet.
-First I put the hot melt glue on the arrow taper.
-Then I heat up the point till the oil burns off.
-Then I put the point on the taper and rotate/push to get it
seated well.
-Then I wipe off excess glue on paper towel.
-Then I spin arrow to verify it spins true.
-Then I dip point in water to cool it. I expect this hardens
the point some if it got softened by overheating…
-
AuthorPosts