[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Complexity #46877

Doc Nock wrote:

Steve,

…If you’d care to, since it’s not Trad Hunting related, perhaps you could send me a snapshot of yours to my email? Love to see how you did it!

Doc and Mike too,

Here’s a link to an older post I did showing some garden pictures:

http://www.tradbow.com/members/cfmbb/messages.cfm?threadid=EBB63042-1422-1DE9-EDE946C0FDFC2E0C

Be happy to send you some email info on specifications and what I did if you like.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: D97 vs B50 #46873

skinner biscuit wrote: Steve,I’m getting the serving to unravel at the nock.I shoot three under and filed my nocks to were I can tap them off the string.Perhaps their still too tight.I really need to learn to twist up a string but I haven’t made it there yet.

I think Doc has already spoken to this, but it looks like a simple case of unravelling. As others have said, it happens when the serving is put on backwards, and is loose to start with. No cure but to re-serve the string…

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: blind bale low# #46324

Using a low poundage bow to get your form right is a good idea. You can shoot a lot more without becoming fatigued, and you can really get a better feel for what to do when you release.

The one disadvantage is that your son’s bow is probably different from your bow. So how the subtleties of hand placement on the grip and how the string feels in your hand will change.

But you can really work on the big stuff, like keeping your bow arm fixed until the arrow hits the target, no peeking, clean release, back tension.

I say go for it, if your son doesn’t mind…

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: D97 vs B50 #46319

skinner biscuit wrote: Will the serving on a b50 last longer than a d97? Seems like the serving on my d97 strings don’t last very long.I have been re-serving them with dental floss lately.I’m pulling 60# on my bow and would I be losing much performance if I switched? Any thoughts?

Your question implies that you think there is something different between the serving material on the two strings. In fact, the material used to serve a string has nothing to do with the string material itself.

The wear pattern on the serving can tell you a story about what is happening when you shoot. You didn’t mention where the serving is wearing out: At the nocking point? below where you grab the string?

In general, nylon serving wears out the fastest, but is by far the cheapest. I have tried several of the more expensive servings with mixed results. The best I have found so far is the BCY Halo serving. It has lasted the best by far.

I have not tried the fast flight serving, but I suspect it will last well too.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: What ya got goin? #46311

Doc Nock wrote:

Doh:oops:I thought all Woodie shooters/builders/promoters also shot B50 string… why would you go to the trouble of TRADITIONAL wood arrows and then shoot a high -tech, artificial material string???

Anyway, to each h is own…remember me sharing here about a guy built cane arrows and put a luminock in one…hilarious!

It’s all about what makes you feel good and generates joy!

Carry on…:lol:

silk or linen would be more primitive than B50. B50 is just as “high-tech” as the other man made fibers, it just ain’t as good.

I shoot woodies and fast flight string. Works for me.

I did the calculations for my new bow that I’m making. It looks like I’ll be able to shoot a 50 grain per pound arrow at about 3000 feet per second.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Complexity #46305

Hay Doc – Have you considered raised garden beds?

We used to do our gardening in the ground. It was torturous all the way around. Backaches from planting / weeding / harvesting. Bugs and rodents above ground and below eating more than their share… By the end of the year the place was more weed than anything.

We put in raised beds about 5 years ago. Since then I’ve sold the tiller. No moles, no rabbits, easier work, no back pain.

We added a bench so we could watch the garden grow 😀

For example… It used to take half a day to get potato’s planted with the kids help. Now my wife and I can do the same amount of planting in 15 minutes.

Raised beds are less work, more productive, and make for a happier life.

We raised our two rats in a 900 sf house on 50 acres. We spend a lot more time outside than in…

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Outdoor Backstops #39138

Smithhammer wrote: …New idea for my backstop – the brewery nearby has tons of pallets sitting out in the backyard. I might just build a frame out of those, stick the targets and a stall mat inside, paint it a pleasing color and plant honeysuckle or something similar to grow all over 3 sides of it. A year from now it will look good enough for “Better Homes and Gardens”. 8)

Sounds like a good and easy idea to me except of the honeysuckle part. That there is a curse word around here. Honeysuckle is an invasive that out competes all the natives. It should be illegal to sell/plant imo.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Outdoor Backstops #38272

Doc Nock wrote: …So…inquiring minds want to know: What type bales you use? Excelsior? there was a place in MD that made up 100# bales with alum wire and were super compacted, for targets… beasts to handle, but held up well.

I never had much luck with hay bales or straw bales to be exact… shot thru too easily… yours look more substantial to me… Do tell!…

Hay bales. Hay seems to last better than straw. The hay isn’t really there to stop the arrows, that’s what the rubber stall matt behind the bales is for. The hay serves to keep the arrows in place after they stop against the rubber stall matt and to affix a target too.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Outdoor Backstops #37881

One more try…

The rain cover is an old vinyl table cloth stapled up. Lasted 3 years so far and still going strong.

Backstop is stall matt cut in half and doubled up.

Bales are hay, not straw. Hay costs more, but lasts longer.

Bullseye is paper towel with bamboo shish kabob stick to hold it.

If I had it to do over again, I’d bury side posts 18 inches instead of 6 inches and skip cables. But I had cables so I got lazy.

I shoot a lot, and this target just keeps going. I replaced center bale after about 3 years.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: turbulator variation? #37796

The effect of turbulators is a subtle thing. Adcock started using them for flight archery where every inch of distance counts…

The only real advantage to them for the average Joe, that I could see, or actually hear, is that it made the arrows more quiet.

Get a friend to shoot your arrows past you while you stand behind a tree (what you do behind the tree is between you and the tree 🙄 ) and listen.

It’s educational.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Outdoor Backstops #37082

Tried to post pictures, but I keep getting the “waiting for Tradbow” message and then I get kicked out 😈

Tried 4 times, maybe I’ll try tomorrow…

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: turbulator variation? #35979

I just put a piece of duct tape on a cutting board (adhesive side down) and use a ruler and razer knife to slice it into thin strips. Works well enough.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Outdoor Backstops #35976

I shoot a bunch of arrows and have had a hard time getting something to work in the long term…

I’ll take a picture and post my target tomorrow. It’s basically a shelter with the rubber stall stuff behind some bales and a rain cover in the front. I think it will last indefinitely as I’ve been shooting at it for 3 years now with no sign of failure…

It’s got that famous southern redneck look to it, but an upstanding western citizen like yourself could make it more visually acceptable…

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: The most acurate bow #35971

Jeeze! I don’t think I could do that with a bow, even a compound… You just can’t throw a fit, or a bow any more without someone making a movie of it…

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: mount and align broadheads: a how to vid #34105

Yep. And even though I am careful to not heat the point up too much, I figure the fast cooling (quenching)in water might harden the edge a bit if the heating annealed it some…

Also, I noticed Clay put the glue on the point and then pressed it onto the shaft. I do the opposite. I put the glue on the wood, and then press the heated point onto the shaft while rotating to get the glue evenly spread around.

Just goes to show yet again that there is more than one way to skin a cat…

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