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in reply to: Draw length ????? #149668
If there was no such thing as friction, then the draw-force curve of a bow being drawn from brace to full draw would be exactly the same as the draw-force curve of a bow being let down from full draw to brace.
Thankfully friction is a real thing, and in the case of a bow we call it internal friction or hysteresis. Internal friction in the bow is friction between the fibers, molecules, and atoms that make up the limb structure that occurs as the limbs are being bent. Since friction is a real thing, it has an effect on the draw-force curve as the bow is being drawn and let down. When we measure the draw force as the bow is being let down, we see that it is less than it was when the bow was being drawn.
When we draw the bow, hysteresis increases the draw-force needed to pull the bow. As the bow is being relaxed, hysteresis decreases the draw-force available to push the arrow. Friction always acts in the opposite direction of motion.
There are a few laws of nature that are immutable. One of them is the 1st law of thermodynamics which states that energy cannot be created or destroyed. The astute reader will ask, what happened to the energy we put into the bow when we drew it, if it isn’t available as the bow relaxes, to push the arrow? The answer is that the energy was converted to heat through the process of internal friction.
If you put a thermometer that was sensitive enough on the bow, you could measure its temperature rise as the bow is being drawn and let down. You can feel this effect for yourself by bending a piece of wire. As you repeatedly bend a piece of wire, it will get so hot that you will likely have to drop it.
And thankfully, our bows don’t get that hot 😜
in reply to: Draw length ????? #149656Draw length is measured from the bottom of the nock to the back side (away from archer) of the arrow shelf. I think most all bowyers stick to this standard.
Brace height can affect draw weight. If the brace height is very low, the bow can lose several pounds of draw force.
The measured draw force can also be affected by how the bow is pulled on the scale. If you use your hands to pull the bow on the scale, keep your hand on the grip when testing the bow. It is common to use both hands when pulling the bow, one on the grip and one on the sight window/arrow shelf area. Using 2 hands this way will give a false reading.
I have found that arrow spine can have a surprisingly large effect on arrow speed. An arrow of correct spine can have a 5 or 6 fps advantage over an arrow of incorrect spine.
in reply to: Busted From Tree #149655Deer hunting with a traditional bow is surely challenging! It can be made more so by where you hunt, imo. I find that when the deer population is more dense, the deer are less wary. When the deer are thin, they get really jumpy. Add to their supernatural ability to spot a hunter the fact that deer do look up and it makes getting the jump on a deer seem nearly impossible.
That said, I can find just one thing to critique in the story of how your encounter played out. Instead of drawing when the deer’s head went behind the tree with the intension of shooting when he came back out, I would have waited till his head was behind the tree and then shot my arrow right away, before the rest of him went behind the tree.
I make this suggestion for 2 reasons:
- Drawing back and shooting right away doesn’t give the deer time to figure things out.
- Drawing back and holding a traditional bow gives the archer time to over think the shot and may cause the bowhunter’s form to slouch against the weight of the bow, depending on how long the bow must be held under tension. All these things can add up to a missed shot.
We invest so much time and effort into hunting a deer and may only get 1 chance to shoot in a season. When we miss the opportunity it can cause us to beat ourselves up over the “wasted” chance. This line of thinking can destroy the joy we seek in being part of the web of life. Even though this thinking is flawed, we all do it. When I miss an opportunity like you did, I try to remember that even the best predators like hawks and wild cats are only successful in their stalk about 25% of the time. When I miss, I’m in good company.
Then I try to be a good sport about it, put on my smile and give the deer a cheerful wave and salutation : ” Eat you later!”
in reply to: Ground Hunting #149419I noticed that the rod on the hammock seat is resting at the base of the tree. I used to set up that way as well.
Recently, I’ve started resting the base of the rod farther up the tree, like at least half-way or more up to the bottom of the seat. At first it might seem like that would be unstable, but it actually behaves pretty well . And I have found it even more comfortable. If you give it a try, be prepared to spend 5 or 10 minutes figuring it out. But once you do, your nether regions will thank you 😳
Is that an orchid growing out of that blow-down mound?
in reply to: Ground Hunting #149322Dapper hat Duncan!
I had 5 turkeys browse by me while I sat in my hammock seat near a persimmon tree the other day. They either didn’t see me, or understood my innocent nature 😜 Either way, they hung around for about half an hour.
in reply to: What ya got goin'? 2 #148164I gave up adding fat to venison. It aught to be a crime… Here’s my tried and true burger recipe guaranteed to make them ask for another:
- Crack an egg in the bow and beat it.
- Drop in a pound of ground venison
- Add about a cup of bread crumbs
- Add a good dusting of garlic powder
- Add a sprinkle of oregano (secret ingredient that maximizes umami and minimizes gamey flavor). This is the most important ingredient, but don’t add too much or it will ruin the flavor.
- Add a tablespoon of barbecue sauce
- Mix everything together by hand. If too wet, add more breadcrumbs.
- If using a fry pan, grease with olive oil or whatever you use. Since there is no fat in the burger, it needs grease to keep from sticking.
- Cook 4 minutes on first side, then 3 minutes on other side.
The egg keeps the meat together. Be ready to make more…
in reply to: My Possibles Bag #148163Ramond Coffman said: “… I was curious what additions and or deletions you implement for your western configuration ?”
While I have dragged a few mule deer to the road, like you I mostly cut them up for easy carry. So I don’t bring my deer drag. And since I am usually farther away longer, I bring a small plastic bottle and a Sawyer mini water filter. Maybe a snack. and a couple meat bags.
I don’t hunt prepared to haul meat. On the extremely rare occasion I get something bigger than a deer, I’ll bone it out and leave it. Then I go back to camp and drop off my bow, back quiver, and possibles bag. Then I load up (dickle #12), grab a backpack and my hunting partner(s), and head out to collect the critter.
I love to walk, so an extra trip is no worries for me. And I never wander so far from camp that it is impractical to do so.
It hasn’t always been this way for me. When I was younger, I carried everything but the kitchen sink. Now I like to think I hunt smarter, not harder. And I’m not so keen to kill anymore, so I let a lot of opportunities slide that might prove successful.
in reply to: beman carbon arrows #147846Beman uses the same system Easton uses, that is deflection. So If it says it’s a “300” that means it deflects 0.3 inches under their standard load configuration.
I wonder if there isn’t a decimal point missing from your numbers? They also use a number system to define the weight. A 8.0 shaft weighs 8 grains per inch. A 9.5 shaft would weigh 9.5 grains per inch.
in reply to: selfbow shelf position #147225Actually, while I have made a few self bows, I mostly build glass backed bows. That said, making a bow bend, tillering, is tillering no matter what the bow is made from.
I have made several bows that had the arrow shelf centered in the bow. They shoot well. Here is a video of my nephew shooting a bow made with the arrow shelf in the center of the bow: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y84yk3AwB-g
A bow is made of 2 components, the wooden part and the string part. I think we don’t spend enough time thinking about the bow from the perspective of the string. When we shoot a bow with our bowhand centered in the wood, it forces our string hand to hold the string 4 inches off center. That means the top half of the string is 4 inches shorter than the bottom half. This can lead to all sorts of imbalance.
Should you finish the bow? For sure. It will turn out better than you think. I would encourage you to read Dean Torges book Hunting the Osage Bow. Dean had a way with words and his advice is ageless. To get a taste, visit his website: http://www.bowyersedge.com/
Good luck with your bow! But be warned, making bows becomes a compulsion for them that want to connect with the universe.
in reply to: Fletching application order #147042When I used to shoot 4 feathers I tried the 60X120 fletching option. Compared to the 90X90 option it was very noisy in flight. I went back to the 90X90.
in reply to: Fletching application order #147021The value of the indexer on the nock is three fold…
Firstly, for them that care (like me) where their cock feather ends up, it provides that alignment. Secondly (and most importantly) it aligns the slot in a timely manner so that it may fit onto the string without fumbling. and thirdly, since I shoot wood arrows, I am concerned with orienting the arrow relative to the grain run-out. Some see it as overly cautious, but I see it as cost-free insurance against injury. The indexer helps keep me safe from broken arrows.
Big indexer, big value. But it adds complication…
I found that my bitz jig would not accommodate the big indexers on my arrows. The fix was easy though. I had to drill out the hole in the nock indexer at the bottom of the jig. It was an easy task. The trick (which I learned the hard way) is to take the jig apart in a box so the small indent balls and springs don’t get lost. Disassembly, drilling, and reassembly are quick and easy.
in reply to: Fletching application order #147002I just never got into making, having, or shooting fancy arrows. I don’t crest or otherwise decorate the cartridges I use in my deer rifle, and I don’t think about or miss the bullets when they are gone. I try to have the same attitude about my arrows.
With that in mind, I don’t spend money on different colored feathers. I use bohning classic nocks which have a nice big nock index that allows me to grab my arrow from the quiver and affix it to the string without ever looking at the arrow. I twist the arrow between my thumb and index finger until the index is under my thumb and that orients the arrow correctly.
If you use 1 color of feather, then you can buy feathers in quantity to save money.
Bohning Classic Nocks are for wood arrows. If you are shooting carbon, I don’t know if you can get nocks with big indexers. From what I’ve seen of carbon nocks, the indexers are mostly for show.
As for using jigs… I made the switch to using fletching tape some years ago and really like it. A single arrow jig like the bitzenburger jig works well with tape.
in reply to: My Broadhead Choice #147001I like to keep a “no strings attached” relationship with my arrows. If you “love” your arrows too much, it’s hard to send them into dangerous situations. That means I don’t buy anything I can make myself. I was thinking of making broadheads, but then I found tuskers that are available for about $25 for a half dozen. Even my time is worth more than that…
They must be sharpened and they are rougher out of the box than other heads but they are well made. With a little file work and patience, they are as good a broadhead as I have used.
Here’s a link: http://www.braveheartarchery.us/tusker_broadheads.htm
If you try (and are willing to use some elbow grease), you can make a broadhead arrow for less than $6.00
in reply to: What ya got goin'? 2 #146780Dry and hot around here too, but if the pattern of the last 3 or 4 years holds the sky will drop out in July and we’ll be a swamp till next spring.
Your bird is looking a little stiff, is that embarrassment over adding a few extra pounds so he doesn’t fit the bathtub so well anymore?
in reply to: Outgrown Bow or Wasted Time? #146474I second Mtrouts suggestion for building strength. Holding at full draw also helps a person focus on using the correct shoulder/back muscles and learning to relax muscles that should not be engaged. I would add to his suggestion that when performing this exercise, the archer do the following:
- Look at the bale and focus on a spot.
- Come to full draw while focusing on the spot
- Close your eyes, and count to 10
- Open your eyes, re-acquire focus on the spot and re-aim the arrow as needed
- release.
As Mtrout cautioned, it is important to build up to 10 seconds rather than starting at that time. You’re deltoid and trapezius muscles will be very sore in the beginning.
As to the bow length question… I think the chart you found is for straight end longbows. Recurves are a different matter. I know plenty of folks (with longer draw lengths than yours) that shoot well with bows that have 56 inch lengths. It is true that longer bows are more forgiving of form. But I doubt that your bow is unsuited to your draw length.
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