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in reply to: Fun at the range today… #39706
Range at a shop?
Did you let them shoot your bow?
How’d your arrows hold up?
Look out, you’ll have a bunch of young’uns hanging around using up your stuff, asking to shoot, wanting advice and freebies. You’ll feel sorry for how sweaty they look and next thing you’ll be giving them lemonade and sandwiches. You’ll never hear the end of it.
in reply to: Hello, newbie here #39621Nice to see another fellow from NC on here. Welcome!
IMO, shooting the same bow for twenty years is the formula for being a good shot. Switching bows / arrows / etc. all the time is the best way to stay inconsistent.
in reply to: High desert stumping #39574Nice pictures! Good shooting, the Wilhelm brothers would be proud.
What desert?
in reply to: Just my take #27999J.Wesbrock wrote: …I have nothing against wood arrows, and the thousand-plus shafts in my basement can attest….
Jason, seeing how you’ve been shooting carbons for 20 years, and knowing that your wife has asked you to clean your basement out a thousand times, I am prepared to do you a favor….
How about I store all those woodies for you free of charge? 😀
in reply to: You would never guess who dared me!!!!!!!!! #27972Jim Shockey is an industry whore.
It never ceases to amaze me, what people will do for little pieces of green paper. Heck, they will do it just to get a number in a spread sheet that represents little pieces of green paper.
Stupid is as stupid does.
I think I’ll send Jim a copy of A Sand County Almanac. Assuming he knows how tho read, maybe it will give him something to think about.
in reply to: Just my take #17219J.Wesbrock wrote: …In the end, it all comes down to personal preference.
Wiser words were never spoken….
That arrow has quite the taper to it. Nice!
in reply to: Longbow speed #39803Reminds me of a story….
A couple years ago I was roving through the woods. I saw a nice leaf up high on the bank on the other side of the creek. Perfect target. I pulled an arrow from my back quiver and was beginning my draw when I heard something off to my left.
I let down and looked… Opossum! I immediately clicked the blunt arrow off my string and drew a broadhead from my quiver. Put it on, drew and shot that ‘possum as he crossed the creek 20 yards away. Perfect shot!
I was feeling like the great Howard Hill himself!
Before I went to retrieve my arrow from that chicken killer, I decided to go ahead and shoot that leaf I was working on before.
I picked up the blunt arrow, nocked it to the string, drew and shot. BAM! That leaf turned out to be a rock. My nice $15.00 carbon arrow / brass insert / blunt arrow was now dust in the wind.
How quickly our fortunes fall, taking our spirits with them 😳 😥
in reply to: Aluminum vs. Carbon with feathers #39728There is no “right” answer. The only thing that is important in the end is that you have fun watching your arrows hit the target.
I agree with the sentiment to spend as little as possible on arrows. They don’t fly any better when they cost more.
The easiest arrows to work with are probably aluminum. The most durable arrows to work with are probably carbon. The most fun arrows to work with are wood (IMO).
The important thing is to get an arrow that flies right for you. That takes experimentation. You can get a test pack of arrows from 3Rivers that include arrows of several different spines. Then you can play around and find what works.
Nobody can do this for you. Ain’t it great?
Carbon arrows and Aluminum Arrows can be tuned the same way. See the tutorials in the “Friends of FOC” forum.
Wood arrows are their own thing. I would suggest you cut the arrow off 1″ longer than your draw length. After you taper the shaft and put your point on, the back of your point will be about 1/4″ from your bow. This is as long as you want to go with wood. Then vary the point to get good flight. Bare shaft tuning doesn’t work with wood.
in reply to: Riser cut before center/arrow selection?? #16805I think there may be subtle advantages to each setup depending on what arrows you use.
If you use carbon arrows (or aluminum maybe) which are stiff and recover from paradox quickly, a cut past center riser will work well and be less quirky.
If you use wood arrows, which are not as stiff and bend a lot in paradox, then a cut before center riser might work better because it stages the arrows to come off the shelf the same every time.
As R2 says, you can get used to either setup with practice.
in reply to: Re-Thinking old Thoughts on Woodies #62230So the snow melted, and you found that bow and arrow setup just laying there? I wonder who lost it?
Better send it to me for safe keeping. I’ll make sure it gets back to the rightful owner 😀
in reply to: Longbow speed #62130grumpy wrote: … How fast doe’s an arrow have to be to kill a stump anyway?
I can tell you from vast and repeated personal experience that it doesn’t matter how fast your arrows are, them stumps can still duck and dodge the best placed shot 😳 😈 🙄
in reply to: To Foot or not to Foot #62153What the Doc said is 100% true in my book.
When I shot carbon arrows, I footed them just so I wouldn’t break so many when roving. $10.00 for a carbon shaft is too much to lose on a rock.
That said, now that I’ve gone back to wood, some of my stumping arrows costing no more than the price of the nock (home made turkey feathers, 38 brass for a blunt) I don’t worry about losing one here and there.
in reply to: Litter Bugs #62077So here’s the specific suggestion I made to the NCBA:
Invite member clubs to “adopt-a-highway”. The DMV will post a sign that shows the clubs name and the NCBA. In return, the NCBA will pay for the clubs liability insurance for every year the club maintains the road.
Good for the road, good advertising for the club and the NCBA, and good PR for bowhunters in general.
The NCBA has a bunch of money ear-marked for conservation and bowhunting defense. It never gets used ’cause they can’t figure out what to do with it. The Liability insurance is cheap, so it’s a good investment.
in reply to: Window and arrowrest #27535For the rest, I use moleskin. Got a lifetime supply when my boy broke his arm. Nurse gave it to him to wrap around the edges of his cast. It’s the same idea as a bear hair rest, but way cheaper.
For the side plate, I’ve been using painters tape for a couple years. Thin and very durable. Easy to peel off when the time comes. You can also use the tape to make a small bump under the side plate or rest for better clearance. Just role it up to the appropriate size.
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