Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
in reply to: Appropriate discussion? #54573
Dr. Ed Ashby wrote: “Shoulder hits are rarely fatal”? Really? On deer sized game I generally aim ON the shoulder. (NOTE: I DID NOT SAY I AIM AT THE SHOULDER BONES). The mid-shoulder area is only meat, with underlying ribs. Aiming there reduces the hits ‘too far back’, and I can comfortable do so because I’ve tested my setup thoroughly and KNOW that, should my shot hit a bone in the shoulder, it is more than capable of penetrating ANY bone to be found there. – Ed
I employed this strategy this year for exactly the reasons you mention. I have harvested 2 bucks that I shot through the shoulders. An additional advantage I experienced from this is that a deer shot through the shoulders doesn’t go far. The first went less than 40 yds stumbling all the way. The second dropped where I shot him and never got up.
I was worried about the second deer, thinking I had hit him in the leg or back, but once I heard the gurgling, I knew it would be ok. It was early morning and I couldn’t keep my eye on the flight of the arrow… but it was true and went through the middle of the shoulder and out behind the off side shoulder. Abowyer Wapiti broadhead looked perfect upon retrieval. The arrow did penetrate through the deer, but did not pass through. Deer broke arrow when he fell.
in reply to: Pulling Tusks? #53411If they are like every other animal on earth… Let the scull decay in a safe place. Once all the flesh is gone, all the teeth can be easily removed…
in reply to: Single bevel? #51225This is my first year with a single bevel as well. I shot a deer through the lungs and found that the hole was wide such that the 2 sides did not touch. Very unlike the normal slit you reference.
The deer ran 40 yds and fell within sight of me. Which was good because there was no blood trail. The wound was vertically centered in the ribcage right behind the leg so no low hole to drain.
I did not see the “z” shaped wound that I have seen in pictures of the single bevel hole.
Internal bleeding was great. External no so much. In fact I have shot deer the same way before with magnus broadheads and had better external bleeding. But they ran a lot further before dying.
I have a friend who shot 3 this year with the same story repeating.
I think these single bevels are a great improvement overall. Just don’t get the lack of blood trail.
in reply to: Just Me and the Squirrels…. #51220Lots of young squirrels this year,… so let them go and let them grow…
The heat this year has really put the kibosh on the deer. They seem to be moving mostly at night. But on those rare cool wet days boy they move around a lot.
Good luck with the squirrels!
in reply to: The Silent Arrow #47959I thought I’d give an update on my experience with the turbulators in front of deer…
I have a friend who has set his arrows up the same way I have, so we have double the data…
So far I have cast an arrow by 4 deer and seen no change in their behavior at the shot as compared to a non-turbulated arrow. My friend has done the same with 3 deer.
I was hoping to report that deer might not react so much to an arrow coming their way if it was more quiet. I cannot, Oh well.
in reply to: Advice on Serving #47948Dennis wrote: Still on serving, I ordered Flemish strings from 3 Rivers and although I really like the strings, (after they finished stretching) I have to wax the tag ends of the loops every time I string the bows. Has anyone ever tried serving over the tag ends (say with dental floss) to hold them in place?
The tag ends can be cut shorter if you don’t like the look. Melt them with a match.
Or, serve over the flemish twist with yarn. It serves to quiet the string a bit too. I don’t think you should serve the flemish twist with anything tight as it would inhibit the locking action of the flemish twist….
in reply to: Broadhead sharpness and bloodtrails #46778sharpster wrote:
…I wanted to do a post-death autopsy but we were very rushed due to the 87 degree heat ……Again, I’d like to point out that the BHD did not hit the spine, nor the major artery below the spine, and did not achieve pass through penetration. All this blood is the result of the “two blade slit” taking out only the very top of both lungs and with the shaft still “plugging” the hole…
RonGreat story, beautiful deer!
But I have to respectfully disagree with your conclusions. It looks to me like you hit the artery that runs under the spine. If you hit the lungs enough to cause this bleeding, the deer would have drowned in a few minutes. In addition, there would have been blood coming from the nose and mouth. Can’t tell from the pictures. But I don’t see the tell tail “streaking” on the ground that results from a deer that is bleeding from the mouth moving its head back and forth.
If the arrow hit no bone, why did it not pass through? I find this hard to believe.
in reply to: Advice on Serving #46763Patrick wrote: Sure do. To be honest, I thought thought was the norm. :oops::lol:
So do you remove the string from the big spool and put it on a smaller serving jig size spool?
How well does it hold up? What say you?
in reply to: Marbled Arrow Cresting #45967You can buy “marbling kits” from craft stores or online.
The way it works is that the different colors of paint are floated on water. You role the arrow around and it picks up the paint.
Hardest part is to get the colors you want in this special paint…
in reply to: My best shot ever, first blood of the season!!! #45589Where is the movie Chris?
in reply to: Interesting Article in American Hunter #45587All the “research” done on deer is likely done on deer farms. The one thing I can tell you for sure is that confined animals do not behave as wild animals do. It is laughable to think otherwise.
I have tried deer scents on and off over the years and I can honestly say that I have never had a buck come in because of a scent. Which isn’t to say that I never saw a buck after putting down scent. I did. But I think I would have seen the deer anyway. The point of the scent is twofold: 1. to bring in deer that you wouldn’t have seen otherwise. 2. to hold the deer still for a shot. I have had it perform the second function, for a very short time. But then the deer was gone even faster than normal…
Maybe in areas where the rut is more pronounced than it is in the south, scents could be expected to work better.
I know someone is going to say that they dragged a scent line all the way to their stand, and then they watched a buck follow that scent line right in and got to shoot the buck. But I have seen the very same thing without using any scent. The buck just followed my human scent all the way to my stand. They are curious critters!
If anyone wants to buy some of my old socks that are proven to bring that big boy in, let me know! 🙄
in reply to: Would this design work? #39670about 1/2 inch at the tip. About 1 1/8 at the fadeout.
in reply to: what type of carbon #39666I used CX Heritage shafts for several years and was happy with them. But I found that Gold Tip Arrows flew better for me. I attributed it to the fact that they are lighter and so they achieve better FOC.
The CX shafts are definitely tougher though…
in reply to: HELP WITH CARBONS? #39662To achieve the greatest EFOC, it is important to use the lightest shaft you can. CX shafts are heavier than goldtips. My personal experience is that gold tips fly better too. First thing to do is look around for the lightest shaft you can find. Then load up the front.
I have found that as you get more weight up front, the spine gets less critical. My anecdotal experience is that when the FOC is in the normal 11 to 13% range, my arrows flew better when they were stiffer. As I went to heavier points and more FOC, the arrows flew better weaker.
If you use a 175 grain point, 125 grain point insert, 100 grain arrow insert that gives 400 grains up front. An arrow will weight about 350 grains, so that is 750 grains total with a good FOC.
in reply to: Washing Clothes: Baking Soda? #39655I’ve been using a cedar oil spray the last few years and it seems to work well. 1 part oil, 9 parts water, and a dash of ivory dish soap. Put it in a spray bottle and shake. The cedar smell lasts for days between spraying. Very cheap too.
We have a lot of red cedar around here, so it blends in. If you don’t have cedars around, probably not a good idea…
-
AuthorPosts
