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in reply to: Fur Tracers #27251
I played with the expensive version of these. They worked well in my experience too. They also tend to hog the bulls eye. I got a bit of grief from my shootin buddies about it. The down side is, they attract robin hoods… Every one died to some other guys arrow…
in reply to: Is it possible to repair a splinter? #27246If the bow is backed with linen, then I am guessing the splinter is on the side of the limb? Or is the belly cracked?
In general, you can glue a splinter down. For added security, you can wrap the limb with thread after that to assure the splinter stays down (glue the thread down as well). Some folks add another wrap of thread on the opposite limb to even out the tiller from the stiffening effect of the thread…
If the belly is cracked in the working part of the limb, my very limited experience is that failure is immanent… except for the following possibility:
Dean Torges has a “build along” on his website showing how to grind out a belly crack and replace it with good wood. I have a bow I am going to try that one one day. It looks easy enough.
Hope this helps.
in reply to: Our Predecessors: 1946 Bows and Hunting, Etc. #250991946…. Let see, was that when they invented electricity? No, No…. electricity isn’t that old, must be when the dinosaurs died out. Oh yea, that was it!
I hope I make it so far, and in such good humor. I love the smell and touch of those old magazines. I haven’t had the pleasure of reading too many of them. Thanks!
I like the Bear ad and the Ben Pearson Ad.
in reply to: Help identifying bow #25083If it were me, I would hang that bow on the wall. An old, all wooden bow, is likely not to last long, once strung. Especially if it hasn’t been shot in a while, and kept in the hot attic.
It is likely that the bow has lost a lot of its compression on the belly side. This means that you will have to “teach” the bow to bend again.
If this bow really intrigues you, you could have it duplicated by an experienced all wood bowyer.
Or, you could slap a string on it and see what happens. Use a 70 inch string. 3Rivers sells gloves you can wear on your bow hand so that you can safely shoot off the knuckle.
in reply to: Hog hunting… #23945Broadheads. Kills ’em where they stand. O yea, it’s fun!
in reply to: moose hunt partner sought #19477I’m glad to hear you had no trouble getting the meat back. They must have slacked up the inspection requirements. I drove my moose across the border in 2007 and had some grief. But it was not nearly the trouble I had from a caribou in 2002. That one had to sit on the floor of a warehouse for 24 hours. Something about mad cow disease and hoof and mouth disease…
I am glad to hear you don’t have to put two tags on a moose. Moose is the best. You won’t have trouble eating through 5 coolers of it.
in reply to: moose hunt partner sought #18382Sounds like a lot of fun! To make it clear to folks, (and if I am correct…) I think it needs to be pointed out that only 1 moose can be taken by the 2 hunters. So once one moose has been harvested, that’s it. Two tags go on it.
So how are you planning to get the meat home? It’s been a couple years since I hunted in Canada, but to fly back, the meat had to go through Newark or Chicago and wait 24 hours for inspection. What a pain.
Last time I drove back so I could get it all done at the border right away without waiting and motels… It still took 3 hours to get through the inspection.
in reply to: Arizona ez fletch #18378They work pretty well with plastic fletching. Not so good with feathers. The slot isn’t wide enough. I modified mine to hold feathers, but it is still a battle. Feathers are not well behaved unless they are pinched in a clamp.
You also don’t have the ability to play with the fletching angle or number of feathers (3, or 4). It is what it is, and that’s it.
So if you can afford to get something else, with a clamp, I think you would be happier in the long run…
in reply to: My Latest Project #15061Don’t tell me you ruint all them nice arries you made last year already?! dagnabit!
in reply to: Strings endless loop vs. Flemish #11618All things being the same, they should provide the same performance.
Aside from brace height, some other potential differences that may affect performance include:
-nock point location
-number of strands
-size of end loops
-amount of center serving
-diameter of string (if strands are the same, but diameter is different, it may tell you something about the materials…
-silencers, and position on string.Some people swear by endless loop strings, and say there is no substitute. Maybe you will be one of them!
All I can really suggest is to study both strings and look for any differences.
The one difference I can see right off the bat is that your old string was shot in, while your new string hasn’t been. B-50 tends to stretch for a while, and be more elastic when new. Maybe you should shoot it a few hundred times with the new string and not worry about performance. Then look at arrow flight after that…
in reply to: Backyard Wildlife #59095Hay Chris, how’s college going? Glad to see you stop by! Nice bird too.
I went down to the beaver pond a few days ago. The wood ducks are doing their thing, as are the blue herons and the turkeys. It was a birdy evening. Saw a muskrat, and this unlucky beaver that accidentally fell on the end of my arrow.
Going to make beaver stew, and use the tail for the bow I took out…
in reply to: Favorite two-piece take-down longbow? #54730The most important one thing I could suggest is to get the longest bow he can tolerate.
Longer bows of whatever design are more forgiving. Since it will be his first hunting bow, there will likely be others. So why not start out with the bow most likely to allow success?
These are the words of a crappy archer who has learned to compensate for his lack of skill by using a big tool 😯
I like long long bows. They work.
I think it is 1 of 2 things… Either the bow hand, or the string hand. For me, it’s always the same answers when I get the shooting results you are:
– I am not “pushing through the shot” with the bow arm
– I am crabbing or in some other way messing up the release.What I found works is to imagine pushing the arrow all the way to the target with the bow. Like you are directing it the whole way. And to use a “dead release”. Meaning I leave my hand against my face at the release. It should still be on your face when the arrow hits the target.
I know, I know, allowing your string hand to snap back to your shoulder gives a better release in theory. But it also allows for bigger groups if your form isn’t great. I have found that I get better groups (maybe not the best achievable) if I use a dead release.
Speaking to what Dave said, it’s funny how different people are. I find that if I am shooting poorly, if I switch to a different bow, I shoot better. It is only a temporary affect of a few days, but some times it gets me out of a rut.
in reply to: Footed Shaft Question #45811I have been entertaining this very question lately myself. I have been thinking about adding a foot to the hex shafts I have been looking at. I have also been hearing about how sitka spruce is lighter than cedar… So many options, so little motivation…
But if you have some arrow lying around, and some heavy wood, and a sander and a band saw or hack saw, you can make a few arrows yourself without too much trouble. To test the principle and the spine.
If you are going to buy the arrows from someone already finished, they should be knowledgeable enough to get you some arrows that meet your current spine requirements. I would guess that footed arrows will perform better than non footed arrows just because of the added foc.
I guess the short and sweet of it is that, if you don’t want to make them yourself, contact an arrow smith and see what he/she can do for you.
in reply to: Eclipse Werewolf Single Bevel Broadheads #42328BlakeFischer wrote: Josh,
I think that the idea has merit, I wonder why no one else has done it?
Several broadheads have been made with steel ferrules. Slick Trick Broadheads come to mind first. Another is Magnus Snuffer SS.
Just have to balance the weight out… And the cost. The guy that’s really going to come out on top is the one that comes up with an Ashby design for the price of a Magnus.
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