[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: A&A Fletching #57763

Dr. Ed Ashby wrote:

The only set features of the A&A pattern are: (1) The fletching has a straight, vertical cut at the rear, with a 1/2″ height; (2) it has a straight taper from the rear to the front; (3) it is applied as a straight fletch, with no helical and no offset; (4) it incorporates the turbulator placed 1/4″ forward of the fletchings leading edge and; (5) it is individually tuned to the particular EFOC or UEFOC arrow you are building up – that determines the length of the fletching you can use.

Ed

Thanks. That’s what I needed.

But item 3 is a little worrying. No helical and no offset means no spin. That’s how we used to shoot musket balls back in the good old days…

I guess if you shoot arrows with no offset and no helical, you can mix up left and right hand feathers and you can shoot single bevel broadheads of either wing too…?

Why get rid of the helical and offset? Is there some other affect adding to the stability of the arrow that compensates for taking away the inertial stability of rotation?

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Latest Arrow Creations #55690

It’s a heavy responsibility to shoot and lose that many arrows…

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Mother Earth News #53310

I guess I was thinking metaphorically. If I had used the word held instead of the word caught, it might have sounded better.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: How many bows do you have? #52235

It’s really not about how many bows you have, it’s about how you use them 😯

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Paper tuning #52231

Some folks and some bows just work that way.

I have found that adding a nockset under the arrow can really help keep the arrow from kicking. My guess is that if the arrow is leaving the bow correctly in all other regards, adding the lower nock set will fix you up.

Be sure to leave at least 1/16 inch extra space between the bottom of the arrow nock and the nock set. Otherwise at full draw your arrow will get pinched and the nock might get cracked.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Meat grinder blues #52226

If (I mean when) you get tired of turning that old crank, you can do what my dad did…

He mounted the old manual grinder to a 2 X something board, took the handle off and put a pulley on it. Then he screwed a motor to the board and added a v belt. He’s been using the same contraption clamped to a table for 30 years. The down side is that it’s 6 feet long and is always in the way the rest of the year.

I’m sure you could think on it longer and make the board shorter. Or just clamp the grinder and the motor to a picnic table outside and save the board for fixing the house up 8)

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Mother Earth News #52222

Nice picture of grandson with gramps. I expect that’s the biggest fish ol Dave ever caught!

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Adding to a bow curious of problems #51167

[quote=TBMADMIN]

Steve, I’m not finding anything in the index. If you think of the title or the author that might help.

I don’t remember the author or title. I’ll dig through my stack and see if I can find it.

The article was about repairing limb tips on an old bow. It started out with pictures of the old tip overlays lifting off, then proceeded through the repair and then showed pictures of the new tip overlays.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: what is fascor #51143

It’s bear archery’s version of laminated birch. It’s the same stuff everybody else calls dymonwood.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Adding to a bow curious of problems #50051

I believe there was an article in TBM a few years ago about adding overlay’s to the tip. I don’t remember the month/year of it, but maybe someone else will…

Most folks use some kind of super glue to affix the overlays, and I know it works well. But I prefer to use epoxy. I use the same smooth-on epoxy that I use to laminate the bows.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Adding to a bow curious of problems #48964

To your questions – Adding overlays to the riser is no big deal as far as the integrity of the bow goes. Adding material to the tips could cause the bow to get more hand shock, and shoot more slowly.

Not to mention the headache involved in refinishing the bow.

If you told us why you want to add the overlay’s it might help us understand the problem you are trying to solve. If it is just for aesthetics, I would discourage you from doing it. Put some nasty Australian snake skins on it. You’ll be happier.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Shooting to left, consistently… #48957

If you are interested in carbons, try gold tip 35-55’s. The numbers mean it is good for bows 35 to 55 lbs. You will still need to experiment to find the right tip weight to get the arrows shooting correctly.

Bare shaft tuning – shooting an arrow without feathers – will tell you a lot about how the arrow is flying off the shelf. Easton has a very good tuning guide on their website.

You may want to read it before spending money/time trying to get things right… It will save a you time and effort, and is very interesting to boot.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Nock High Every Time #46711

What J said. But leave a little space under the arrow and the lower nock (1/16 in). Otherwise at full draw you may crush the arrow nock.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Noteable Quotes! #46705

Troy Breeding wrote: Heard this one several years ago while sitting around the camp fire with friends talking about the most lethial wounds.

:Quote:

To kill a lion the hole needs not be as big as a church door, but deep like a well with the waters of life flowing at both ends….

I believe that’s a nock off of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet when montigue (sp) gets stuck with a sword…

“If you see the buddha, kill him” – zen saying

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Cork Screw #43235

I second what J said. And I know this is flying in the face of current trends, but I still like 5 inch feathers. If you do pluck the string, or slap your arm, or whatever during an important shot, the feathers will at least get your arrow going straight again.

Nothing worse than hitting a deer with an arrow that is wobbling…

[Author]

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