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in reply to: Purple Heart shafts? #31433
Hexshafts seem very interesting to me. I’ve not tried them because they are heavy. But you might like ’em.
http://www.hexshaftarrows.com/
If they were made of a lighter wood, now that would be the ticket…
in reply to: Show and Tell #31424Shelf paper wraps – that sounds good.
Another cheap option that works well for me is White Lacquer. I have tried various white spray paints with poor results. But White Lacquer in a spray bottle works great. And just 1 coat will do (although 2 coats makes it really nice). A $4 can will last many dozen arrows.
in reply to: Purple Heart shafts? #30362I would think that is too heavy and expensive to make entire shafts from. But Purple Heart footings… Now that’s a different story.
in reply to: Show and Tell #30339Nice bow too! I like to see people making their own bows.
How do you like those poplar arrows? I was thinking of trying to make some laminated arrows in the same spirit as how a fly rod is made using poplar…
in reply to: Critter Stories #28187Those turkeys are crazy this time of year.
We’ve seen turkeys every day for the last 5 days or so. On Sunday I was puttering in the garden and a gobbler came out of the woods and started strutting right there in the yard. I could have whacked his head off with the hoe. I wonder if that would have been a “traditional” kill?
in reply to: Thanks, Dave! #28181Well, I have no wise words. But I can imagine the relief, and add to that springtime and turkey hunting…
Take a walk with Caroline and the boys (whichever ones these days) and breath in the glory of life!
Looking forward to whatever the new writing produces…
in reply to: Breeding move over — the Incinerator is here! #18635Holy S^&#$%#TTT!! 😯 😯
in reply to: Calling All Boyers #18628How you hold the string is important to determining tiller.
I shoot 3 fingers under and find even tiller is best. Those that shoot split fingers usually find a slight positive tiller is best.
Positive tiller means the lower limb is “stronger” and the string is closer to the lower limb than the upper limb.
As Clay says, when in doubt, start over. If it was me, I’d even up the limbs and see what happens. Then loosen the bolt on the top limb a tad if need be. – shoot a bare shaft to see how the arrow is flying as you make your adjustments. A fletched shaft doesn’t tell many tales.
in reply to: Arrow tuning #18623Sorry for the late response Troy. But to answer your question, I don’t think it has any effect at all. I’ve killed a mess of squirrels, a few rabbits, and a fair number of ground hogs with ’em.
The ground hogs are kicking my butt this year though… I was thinking of switching the washer out for a piece of carrot.
in reply to: fletching tape #18617I’ve never used tape. But I have had arrows made for me that were taped. They lasted just fine.
I would switch to tape, except I use a jojan fletcher and there would be no point to it – tape really shines when using a single arrow fletcher.
Seems like tape is more expensive than glue though. And I can use my glue for stuff besides arrows…
If I had it to do over again, I might start out using tape.
in reply to: Long draw –HELP #18608Draw length is defined as the length of your draw as measured from the back of the bow to the bottom of the nock at full draw.
Get somebody to help you. Draw the bow with an arrow on it. Have somebody mark the arrow at the back of the bow when you have come to full draw. Then let down and measure the arrow. This is your draw length.
Your draw length will change based on your release style, and how much weight you are pulling. I don’t believe you will be happy with anything less than a 66 inch bow (r/d style) or 68 inch (straight long bow).
find a bow that looks good to you, and then just ask the bowyer to make a bow for you. You may not have gotten many responses because these guys deal with tire kickers all the time. If you commit to a serious discussion of purchasing his bow, you will get a better response.
All you need to do is tell them your draw length (measured as previously described) and what weight you want at that length. The rest is easy peasy.
As for arrows… I would suggest you stick with carbon until you get good with whatever bow you end up with. Don’t try to challenge yourself with too much stuff too fast.
And don’t worry yourself about the “physics” of it. Whatever bowyer you settle on will guide you through arrow selection. That’s part of the perks of dealing with a custom bow maker.
in reply to: Critter Stories #18600Dogs are a hoot! I bet if he had the chance, he’d do it again 😯
in reply to: Arrow Dynamics arrows, which model? #17048Troy,
-Not to hijack the intent of this thread, but…
What do you think of the Carbon Tech whitetails? Have you used them? What color are they? Are they tough? Can you get brass inserts in them?
thanks.
in reply to: Arrow tuning #17037250 grn is the heaviest I have seen too. But I quit using those fancy heads anyway…
I found putting a 1/4-20 washer behind a field point works even better. And it is a lot cheaper.
I have also started putting a washer behind a broadhead for groundhogs. Makes finding the arrow ever so much easier.
If you decide to give it a try, you will notice that one side of the washer has rounded edges from punching. The other side has sharp edges. Put the rounded edges towards the field point. This will help center the washer behind the field point.
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