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in reply to: Hardwood shafts? #29690
Dave – I would not have thought just a coat of smooth-on would produce such impressive results. But using the green nylon serving is a good idea too. If the smooth-on alone works so well, the serving can only be better.
Even though you are getting such good results, I just can’t help but think that eventually the smooth-on will crack and let you down without the wrap…
in reply to: Hardwood shafts? #28635David Petersen wrote: Steve — Once again you’ve thought of something I had not, thanks. What sort of serving would you recommend, and what sort of sealant, epoxy or otherwise?
Dave, just saw this thread again… I don’t have any idea’s except maybe using the thread that is used to affix the eye’s to fly rods (as Duncan Suggested). A call to a fly fishing store should get you the epoxy and the thread you will need. – I really think you are onto something here with wrapping the end of the shaft and epoxying it.
in reply to: About to give up. #28622Lots of really good idea’s here. I’d like to 2nd them all, especially the question about weight. If you are shooting a trad bow in the same weight range as your compound, that’s a formula for failure.
Move up, shoot a lighter bow, don’t shoot too long, drink a beer, and have fun. It’s supposed to be fun. And it is fun.
That said, I have felt the frustration caused by bad shooting. There is no magic cure or cookie cutter solution. Every person has to work through it their own way. Good luck and I hope you stick with it.
And contrary to what some of the experts say, we can’t all be as good as howard hill. But I do think we can all get good enough to kill a deer at 10 yds.
in reply to: And Another Thing………… #25351It may have something to do with the heads you are using. Some are easier to sharpen than others. The old grizzlies are the hardest to sharpen imho. The new ones are supposed to be better and I am looking forward to trying them.
ABowyer heads come super sharp. Since you didn’t say they were ever sharp, I am guessing you haven’t tried them. I’ve used the abowyer heads for the last 4 years with great success.
As for sharpening – I am sure the traditionalists will turn their noses up at this- but it is the best thing going. Abowyer sells some sharpening wheels and grits that work really fast and well to sharpen a head. You need an 8 inch bench grinder though. I went ahead and bought a bench grinder from Lowes (post xmas special) for less than 50 bucks and it has been dedicated to sharpening broadheads and knives. The downside is that it can’t be taken into the field – obviously. But I just bring extra heads on trips in case they are needed (which they haven’t been yet).
After sharpening these single bevels for several years now, I find they are actually easier to sharpen than standard heads. One tip- test the sharpness of a left bevel head on your left arm. And a right bevel head on your right arm. Doing otherwise will give a false indication of dullness.
in reply to: Had Your Fill Yet? #25339Killing deer in the snow is the best there can be! I have done it only twice down here in balmy NC. But they are my most vivid memories…
I have my freezer full too. But I have 2 neighbors giving me the hungry eye waiting for “their” deer… The deer haven’t been moving this week and I am not sure what to do to shake things up. So I stayed in bed this morning 😳
But look out tonight! I can never get enough of this stuff. Thankfully the season ends Jan 1 or I’d never get anything done.
in reply to: Green Fire #25336The foundation also has kits for people who teach the land ethic. So maybe that would be good for your class endeavors… And I bet a trip to the shack could be tax deductible if you work it right 8)
in reply to: Review of 2" Rayzr Feathers… #24249My experience with small feathers led me to similar conclusions. They work fine if nothing goes wrong. But let the arrow touch a twig, or have a bad release, or don’t follow through, and watch what happens.
Big feathers, no problems. I only shoot at game out to about 18 yards anyway. And there are always twigs in the way. But with EFOC arrows and big fletching they get through without incident.
in reply to: help bow strings #18675As for stringers, the Thunderhorn stringer is my favorite. It doesn’t have a sewn pocket for the lower limb, and so it won’t come apart. And it seems to fit the limb tips better than any other I have tried.
As for strings, I am confused by your problem. At first you say that the string is so short to reach brace that you have a hard time stringing it, then you say that you have to twist it up too much. Not sure what the problem is. But here’s what I can tell you…
Too Short – sometimes the strings come out too short if you make the end loops too small. And if you make them too big, the string can come out a little long.
Too Long – If you don’t twist the string up good before putting it on the bow, it can slip when the bow is strung and then you have a string that is too long.
Keep at it. Making your own strings is a great way to enhance your bow. After you have made a dozen strings you will be an expert. And the cost savings will really add up over time. – just don’t let your friends know you can make strings, unless you like drinking their beer…
in reply to: Another miss. Input welcomed. #18667I have no advice for you, but it sounds like you are having a fun season!
All I can say is keep at it. Anyone who can shoot a pigeon in the neck doesn’t have any real problems – except maybe the common hunters malady of exaggerating a wee bit.
in reply to: Wet Feathers #18664David Petersen wrote: Good info, Sky. I wish someone made an inexpensive feather cutter for the A&A.
I looked at the feather chopper website a while back and they say they will make a chopper for whatever pattern you want. It didn’t say anything about extra cost, so I expect it would run you the usual 30 bucks.
I use a feather chopper to make my shield cut feathers, and it works well.
Lately, I’ve taken to just cutting the shield part of my shield cut feathers off to make a square back. This gets the feathers closer to the nock and makes them a little shorter.
After experimenting with the AA shaped feathers, I found that I didn’t like the really short fletchings. But I do like the squared off back.
So before investing the 30 bucks, use a scissors and cut some out and try them. Then you will know exactly what to ask for. When cutting the feathers with a scissors, cut against the “grain” of the feather. It will cut cleaner.
in reply to: Small game points? #17532I second a washer behind a field point. Nothing works better for less… and a woodchuck aught to know.
in reply to: New to bow hunting… entirely #16445And… Don’t think of your bow as a gun. It’s a totally different bird. Which means you have to learn to hunt in a different way. Getting close, planning your shot, staying invisible… There will be no need to hold your bow at full draw.
And, as has been said, you have a really heavy bow. At least for most people. That may be why your dad never got into it. If you got a 45 lb bow to start with, your dad may even get interested. it’s a totally different (and better) experience to shoot a comfortable bow.
Enjoy the flight of the arrow. You have picked some good books to read.
in reply to: Homemade Hill grip wrap #14181Beautiful Day and beautiful deer!
Blood will crack off the grip and attract bugs. Better stick with oil… 🙄
in reply to: My new longbow #13117I like the double curvy thing on the maple handle.
What limb thickness taper are you using?
in reply to: Bowhunting whitetail's video #13113Hay! I saw some panning and zooming when you were going after that squirrel you pegged… Was a buck running the camera?
Nice squirrel, Nice deer, nice video. Good job!
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