[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: arrow material #12405

Dead Horse!

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Facial Recognition #12400

I am not sure about faces. But I can vouch that they recognize hats.

I, as many of my farmer neighbors do, wear a straw hat in the summer. If I walk out to the garden in my straw hat, and there happens to be a deer there, it will give me that dull 1000 yard minimum wage stare and keep eating. Even if I yell and wave at it.

But one day I happened to have on my felt hat that I wear when hunting. There was a deer in the garden and she took one look at me and was out of there.

So for the garden, I immediately put an old felt hat on the scare-a-crow. And for next year, I will wear my straw hat when out with the bow 😀

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Electronic predator caller build along #49784

Looks like a take down long bow limb form in the background too…

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Game camera #46429

I have a couple of the bushnell camera’s. They take good pictures, and have good sensitivity. The biggest problem I have had with camera’s is their ability to distinguish day from night, and thus not overexpose the picture. I’ve not had that problem at all with the bushnells.

The best part is that they run on AA batteries, and last a long time. It can run on 4 or 8 batteries. This year I just put 4 batteries in them, and they have run all season.

I’ve owned 4 different brands. The bushnell has been the best.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Tuffhead 225 gr. Penetration #44107

Wow what a great big deer! You sure grow em big in the land of 10,000 lakes!

I have to dispute the Olive Oil is better than butter argument though… I have read a lot from the whole food movement, including the iconic Nourishing Traditions Cookbook. And from what I’ve read, it seems that there is really nothing wrong with butter, or any other natural fat. What you want to stay away from is the artificial fats, like margarine.

And of course, moderation in all things… except hunting 😀

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Update on Hunor Broadheads… #37987

I like the broadhead leather case they sell. I made one that holds 6 broadheads, but theirs is nicer looking.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Phoenix Bow #37979

Well Dave, that’s easy. One of the animals is really good looking, and the other one is the beaver 🙄

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Phoenix Bow #37131

I left the bow sitting around till after hunting season, then I started fooling around with it. I ended up glueing the crack down and putting a peg at the end of the hole.

I then shot the bow for a year, and had friends shoot it so that after a year, it had many more thousands of shots, and seems to be cured. It lost no weight in the process, and shoots as well as it did before breaking.

SO I refinished the bow, added an arrow head to the riser, and am giving it to my neighbor. He is a master fly fisherman who makes some realy pretty cane flyrods. He has borrowed bows from me off and on for several years, so I thought I’d give him one of his own. Maybe he’ll send a flyrod my way 😀

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Hildebrand #36809

You need to write another book and quit fiddle-fartin’ around… where is your puritanical american need to slave away, regardless? 😀

Wrapping the shaft with a string serving jig is not the way to go… It will produce a tight wrap, but that tight wrap will actually inhibit the bond with epoxy when you apply the epoxy.

In order to really do the trick, you will need to take the loose serving and soak it in the epoxy until the fibers are totally wetted. Then wrap it by hand (or otherwise) as tightly as possible. This will squeeze the extra epoxy out of the serving as it wraps around the shaft – And result in a super tough footing.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Squirrel :) #36793

Grey squirrels are way tougher than most any other critter. A simple bludgeon of any design is insufficient to reliably kill one, unless hit in the head.

The combination of penetration and shock is required. A washer behind a sharp field point will work. But be prepared for the squirrel to still put up a fight. They are tough.

A bunch of good reading about squirrels can be had at Dean Torges website : http://www.bowyersedge.com/

look under the writings section.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Hildebrand #35495

I sure am interested in your final report on how the arrows work, and whether you add the string serving behind the head. How straight the arrows are, and if they stay straight. Etc…

I noticed on my last trip to your fine state that my equipment performed better than it does here. Can’t figure if it was the altitude, humidity, adrenalin or what.

I was consistently, day after day, beating up the 2 inch dot on my camp target out to 40 yards, which never happens. I guess I am wondering if your environment is kinder to wooden bows and arrows than it is down here in humid NC.

I like my tried and true carbons. I’d hate to have to go back to playing with woods again… But damn, they sure are singing in my ear like a siren.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Small game points? #35478

Now I used to think a washer behind the fieldpoint was the best idea… But if a man has to drink a beer in order to make a clean kill, well, that’s the new best idea in my book 😀

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Recurve Strings ? #33314

Usually, the string length refers to “AMO String Length” which is actually a few inches shorter than the bow. Longbow is 4 inches shorter and recurve is 3 inches shorter than actual bow length, if memory serves…

If you buy a string from 3Rivers, or others, they will usually ask for the “actual length” which is the length of the string as you measure it from end to end.

This is the most reliable way to do it: Just take the string off your bow, and measure it with a tape measure from end to end with the loops pulled tight and closed.

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Hildebrand #33084

David Petersen wrote: Steve — I just looked and can’t find this jig in the online catalog. Does it have a name or number? Thanks, Dave

It’s called an arrow taper sanding block:

http://www.3riversarchery.com/Arrow+Taper+Guide+Block_i8044_baseitem.html

[Stephen Graf]

in reply to: Hildebrand #31961

3Rivers sells a jig that is basically a flat plate with a notch in it at the proper angle for both the front and back taper. You place this jig in front of your belt sander, lay the arrow in the notch, and rotate. I expect it produces the best taper possible.

You could probably make the same thing with a piece of 2X6 and clamp it in front of your belt sander…

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