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in reply to: best fletching jig? #49638
AlexBugnon wrote: I’ve seen many gadgety jigs coming onto the market the last 10 years. None of them, in my opinion, come close to the very sturdy, precise and reliable Bitzenburger. Bohning is good. The 6arrows jo-jan is ok on jig 1 thru 3. But on 4,5,6, the feathers are progressively off-center.
Bitz forever for me!
Hmm. I’ve always used the jo-jan jig and felt it did a fine job. But I have noticed that some of my feathers are off, and I’ve never figured out why… I’m going to have to see if I can figure out what you see.
How did you determine that the last 3 positions are off?
Maybe this is the excuse I need to get a bitz and some tape 😀
in reply to: Does altitude affect arrows? #49629since you asked, and directly from wikipedia:
“In fluid mechanics, the Reynolds number (Re) is a dimensionless number that gives a measure of the ratio of inertial forces to viscous forces and consequently quantifies the relative importance of these two types of forces for given flow conditions.
The concept was introduced by George Gabriel Stokes in 1851, but the Reynolds number is named after Osborne Reynolds (1842–1912), who popularized its use in 1883.”
Hay, it was invented in the 1800’s. It must be traditional!
in reply to: FOC Evolution… #48498I can’t add much to the good advice and experience given here, but I’ll add maybe just a little bit…
I started using a 1″ aluminum sleeve over the end of my arrow a couple years ago to strengthen the shaft and keep it from breaking when hitting rocks,etc. It worked really well. So the next thing I did was get rid of the brass insert and go back to the aluminum inserts that came with the arrows. That way I could increase the weight of the point and increase the FOC of the arrow without increasing the weight of the arrow.
I basically moved the extra 25 grains or so (difference in wt between 50 grain brass and 25 grain aluminum) to the end of the arrow point. It gave me a couple percent and saved me about 12 bucks a dozen on brass inserts.
I have had no failures due to the aluminum insert. I know they are supposed to be a weak point. But I haven’t had that problem, especially with the added support of the aluminum sleeve.
in reply to: Making fletches! #47421Dave,
You must not have been using the primary feathers. Primary wild turkey feathers are as tough as you can get. They last way better than commercial feathers, and don’t lay down in the rain.
Determining whether a feather is a primary flight feather can be determined easily by looking at how the feathers lay on the quill. If the feathers are even in height on both sides of the quill, it is not a primary feather. If the feathers are much longer on one side than the other, it is a primary feather.
Of course, the best way to determine it is to have the wing and pull them off. In Clay’s video, he holds the wing up and touches the feathers as he calls them primary. That was great. The primary’s are the leading feathers on the outside of the wing that give the most lift to the turkey in flight. Thus they are the strongest.
I get a lot of my feathers just walking around and picking them up. When you pick a feather up, hold it in your right hand. If the short side of the quill is forward, it is a right wing feather. Likewise, hold the feather in your left hand. If the short feathers are in the front, it is a left wing.
Give it another try Dave. You WILL be impressed with them, I promise.
in reply to: Does altitude affect arrows? #47409The aerodynamic drag on an arrow is proportional to the Reynolds number, the air density, and the square of the velocity.
Thus, at high speeds, the drag force is much more dependent on the velocity of the projectile. At low speeds, the velocity term does not overshadow the other terms of the equation, namely the density term.
Therefore, one could expect to see some difference in the trajectory of a low velocity projectile over a high velocity projectile as the density of the medium changes.
Is it a lot? Hard to say. One would have to know the Reynolds number of an arrow, which cannot be determined without a wind tunnel.
in reply to: Does altitude affect arrows? #46206I live about 600 ft above sea level, but I hunt in Colorado from time to time at 9000 and above. I have found that my arrows fly faster for sure. But I haven’t found that I needed larger fletching.
If you tune your bow/arrow setup, then your arrows will be flying well off your bow no matter the density of the air.
I always look forward to shooting in Colorado. I always shoot better. I usually credit the thin atmosphere for my flatter trajectories.
in reply to: Great nock set #45794Yea, it’s one of the best improvements to my setup this year. Just a little thing, but it sure is helpful. Especially when making small adjustments to your nock height.
I use two nock sets, one above and one below. So it is doubly nice to be able to just move them as I need to get things right.
And these nock sets don’t seem to get mashed like my old tied on nock sets. they keep their shape over time… Wish I could say that for myself 🙄
in reply to: Naming your bow #45046I second what Troy said 😕
in reply to: Making fletches! #45038I’ve done it with the fletching clamp, as Clay demonstrates. It works well, but it’s slow if you have a bunch to do, and I wasn’t able to grind the bases as uniformly and as small as I can with the grinding jig offered by 3Rivers for about $120 bucks or so. I bought mine years ago, so it was a little cheaper.
Dean Torges has some good tutorials on his website about making fletching, arrows, etc., as well as plans to make the aforementioned grinding jig.
I don’t sort the feathers as Clay does. But I do just use the first 7 primary feathers. And I am always trying to get as much as I can out of them, so I get as many as 3ea 4″ fletch from a long feather. For me, the thing to watch is where the feather rolls around the quill. I cut the feather off before it rolls around the quill.
I use the feather choppers that you can get from 3Rivers and others. They work well for me. A feather burner is more traditional and faster. But it is stinkier, and more costly.
Making fleching is fun, and cost effective over time. I have several friends that usually get 3 or 4 turkeys a year. I get all their wings in exchange for some returned fletchings. Luckily for me, they all use right wing feather users, so I get to keep all the left wing for myself.
Have Fun!
in reply to: On The Wild Edge #42767Dave,
Congrats on the new books! You took a break from writing, but it sounds like when you got back to it, you worked ’em out fast. That usually means real inspiration. Can’t wait to read them.
in reply to: Dividing the spoils #42759If you are hunting with a group, it can’t be just about the meat. So share freely with your camp mates and don’t begrudge it.
But as far as sharing after the communal hunt, that’s up to you. There is no obligation.
For myself, I take care of the freezer solo. Then I am free to enjoy my friends (few though they may be) when we get together for a week of “hunting”. I usually don’t plan for the meat to come home, i.e. I don’t bring coolers. I let the others have the meat.
That said, my best trip with friends as far as meat goes… was an archery hunt in Quebec for moose. Five of us hunted together and we got 3 big moose. I had to buy 5ea 100 qt coolers to get my share home. Oh, that was good. Usually I have to subsist on our scrawny carolina “deer”. But I have grown to love my backyard deer. They are always there to feed my family. Who could ask more? Such Faithfulness and Sacrifice!
in reply to: woodies 101 #41597Dave – the saw is called a wire saw. They are usually impregnated with carbide or diamond dust, and run about 40 bucks.
I saw a real nice self nock that was made by first drilling an eight inch (or so) hole at the back of the nock, and then cutting to it with a bandsaw or hacksaw or whatever. What this did was give a round bottom to the hole, and that lovely “click” and stay which makes plastic nocks hard to beat.
Just have to make sure the throat of the nock is narrower than the hole at the base…
in reply to: All these new bows,, guess I better show mine #41593Very nice Troy! Are the limb cores black locust too? Black Locust is supposed to make a good self bow. But I thought it might be a tad heavy for a recurve limb.
You’ve made a mess-a-bows this year. I thought you were retired…
Have fun shooting it!
in reply to: On The Wild Edge #37787I read On the Wild Edge to the kids. It reads even better out loud than just to yourself.
We deny the little poopers (teenagers now…) the plug-in-drug as well as all the wireless-drugs. We’ll see what happens as they get older, but for now they don’t seem to miss them much.
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