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Todd;
Greetings and Salutations from South Eastern Arizona.
First of all ……………….. My standard advice; If there’s an archery club within 100 miles of you with Traditional members … Join it. The exchange of ideas alone is worth it.
Second; Back in the years of B.C. (before compounds) the major and some of the not so major manufactures had brought bow-making to a fine art. A lot of these bows will still hold their own today. Maybe not head to head with a high dollar custom model but still fine shooters with a lot of miles left in them. A couple that come to mind are the Damon Howatt Super Diablo and the Ben Pearson Mercury Hunter. Old catalogs (found on eBay ) such as Robin Hood or Kitterage Bow Hut are a good place to look at what was. Old Bowhunter Digest books, also. A bit of time spent cruising ‘recurve bow’ on eBay or one of the used bow sites might turn up something that turns you on.
Bear in mind that speed isn’t the whole picture. A bow has to have a certain degree of ‘panache’ (to you). If it does, you will shoot and learn the bow and this builds confidence. Without confidence, all we’re doing is getting fresh air & exercise.
Good luck & let us know how it works out.
in reply to: herters perfection recurve #151814I wouldn’t know why you couldn’t use the fuzzy side of Velcro on the shelf & riser window to see what happens.
If that fails, it’s really hard to go wrong with a Bear Weather Rest & resetting the nocking point.
in reply to: SB 252 CA bear hunting ban bill #151759Believe with all of your hearts that every time the forces of evil have a set-back & fail …………….. they learn from it and come back again and again and again.
in reply to: center shot versus not quite center shot? #151577I’m no expert but the way that I understand it is that the amount of center shot goes hand in hand with arrow spine and the archer’s paradox. A center shot riser will tend to take a stiffer shaft that doesn’t flex as much. Less center shot will require a more limber shaft that will bend around the riser. Then, just to muddy the water, shaft length and point weight need to be considered, and at some point, madness ensues. Can’t really say that one is more better than the other. The key factor, in my opinion is the phrase ” ………. liked the looks of …….”. If the bow appeals to you, you’ll likely spend the time to find the arrow that appeals to the bow and everybody wins.
Keep us posted on how it goes.
in reply to: Happy New Year! #150879Awesome !!!!
Details ?????
in reply to: Need Recommendation #150565Gotta love hunting feral pigs !!!!
The next time you go out to practice you might try this; Put a paper plate on the bales and shoot one from 5 yards. If you hit, move back to 10 yards, again, one shot. If that hits, move back to 15 for one shot. Continue moving back until you put one out of the plate. That’s the distance to shoot from, working on form. Then, before you finish up for the day, do it over again but keep moving back until you run out of arrows or range. Shooting longer distances will show up flaws in form (hopefully) before they become bad habits.
in reply to: Need Recommendation #150562One more thing to consider when you’re setting up a bow; …………… What-ya gonna use it for ????
If you’re sitting a tree stand over a rub line at 15 yards you’re going to sacrifice a lot of speed to get the exit wound for a better blood trail. On the other hand, if you’re hunting antelope or jackrabbits out on the open desert you’ll likely want a much flatter shooting set-up. Same with tournament shooting; American Round is going to be 60/50/40 yards. Most 3d shoots are 30 & under. NFAA field round is a little bit of everything.
No sense in making this simple ……………………….. Where’s the fun in that ????
in reply to: Improved Back Quiver Strap #150551Outstanding idea !!!
in reply to: Need Recommendation #150538If you can stand one more tuning suggestion……………
Whatever shaft you decide to work with; 400s ………….. 2213s ……………. whatever;
Get about three or four of them and cut one down by 1/4″ to try. If the indications are that you need to cut down some more, pick a new shaft and cut it down by 1/2″. If you need to adjust some more, cut a third shaft down by 3/4″ and so forth. This way you can go back and confirm tomorrow what you decided today. Once you get close, say your draw length is 30″ you can end up with test arrows 29 3/4 “, 30″ and 30 1/4” . There should be a sweet spot there somewhere. Then, if you want to play with different point weights, you’ve got ready to go shafts.
Soapbox rant to follow alert; ……………………. In the over-all scheme of things, arrows are the cheapest thing we deal with. After bows, gas, tournament registration fees, hunting licenses, boots, camo, etc. etc. arrows are chump change. Whatever the target, bull elk, 3d foam or a stump on the next hillside, it comes down to the arrow. Never be afraid to buy them, shoot them and bang them up or lose them. When you can launch a couple of field points, a couple of blunts and a couple of broadheads out 40 or 50 yards and have them all group together, confidence is high and life is really good.
in reply to: Need Recommendation #150523I try to keep all of my bows 60# / 28″. I’ve found that the numbers written on the bow are NOT carved in stone. I have a Bear 48 Magnum marked 60 that feels about 45#s and shoots 1916’s like lasers.
My ‘go to’ arrow shaft is the eBay 2213. 5″ helical three fletch, 125 grain point w/40 grain insert. Nothing extreme but very versatile. Simple is good, there-fore extremely simple must be extremely good.
You might try getting a few full length 2213s and cutting them down a bit at a time to find the sweet spot.
Note;……… I like tuning bow or arrow when fully warmed up but not overly tired over a couple of days. Trying to tune something on a day that your shooting is ‘off’ can lead to madness, strong drink and the urge to take up flower pressing.
in reply to: Block targets #150365I’ve got one that I won in a raffle somewhere. Not sure of the brand. It works well for warm-up shots in deer camp with field points. I would think that broadheads would cut it up pretty quickly.
For shooting in my workshop I have one of the nylon bags full of pillow batting. Not sure of the brand of that one either but it’s stopped about a gazillion arrows & I can pull them with two fingers.
Not to be overlooked (and cheap) is a simple bale of straw tightened with ratcheting cargo straps.
in reply to: what’s a decent longbow in the $300 range. #150259James, Greetings and Salutations from S.E. Arizona.
I’m assuming that you already have an entry level bow and want to upgrade ?? Couple of suggestions;
(1) Spend some time on eBay just to see what’s out there. A used bow could save you serious coin. One may stand out from the crowd and say to you “I’m the one”.
(2) Take the money that you save on a new bow and spend it on a few coaching lessons. Far & away easier to not learn bad habits in the first place than suffer thru trying to un-learn them. (Trust me on this one)
(3) Join an archery club that has some Traditional members. Good people / Good times.
Good luck and let us know how it’s working out.
in reply to: Best quiver for Bear Grizzly #150067Mainbow dude; Greetings from S.E. Arizona.
I don’t have a Grizz but I have set up a Super Kodiak & a Mag 48 with the 8 arrow Bear spring arm quivers. Kind of a ‘retro’ thing & pretty happy with them. ……………. However, I shoot 2213s so the arrows fit tight in the rubber gripper. Smaller diameter carbons might be a problem. One other issue could be noise. I wrapped the limb with Cor-Flex (pet section / Wally World) where the spring arms fit and then some more over the arms to tighten everything up. Then cut some narrow strips to wrap anywhere metal wire crossed metal wire. Used the last narrow strip for a tip protector on the lower limb and good to go.
in reply to: indian bows #149970Didn’t Indian and Bear have a bit of an advertising mano-e-mano thing going with their 48″ bows ????
I’ve got a Bear 48″ Magnum that’s a hoot to shoot but I’m pretty sure that the weight on the bow is mis-marked by about 15#.
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