Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
in reply to: Meatheads and carbon arrow sleeves #53628
Steve Graf wrote: I had a problem with getting a sleeved arrow into the back of the meathead. The broadhead is designed to come over the end of the shaft and protect it, which is great. But the problem is that the inserts go way down into the broadhead. When you tighten the shaft onto the insert, you need to make sure it bottoms out on the insert, and not the inner wall of the broadhead. Hopefully that makes sense…
I ended up having to ditch the aluminum sleeves to insure contact between the insert and the arrow.
Steve What you are describing is correct. The proper sequence is to seat the adaptor inTO the broad head with glue.Then screw the arrow onto the the adaptor. If you are going to use a footing push the footing down firmly so it contacts the broad head.Mark the arrow at the top of the footing . Unscrew the arrow place the footing to the mark and glue. Every thing should match up.
Some footings over the arrow will fit down inside the broad head depending on the diameter and the footing used. Either way if use the corrective procedure it all works out.
F
[b]TAILFEATHER To the original post[/b] Footings are a matter of choice.:?: Some add footings for additional weight .Most use footings for additional insurance against breaking,bending or mushrooming of the arrow tip. If one hits a hard object there is a extreme amount of pressure applied to the adaptor and insert. Enough impact can force the insert in to the arrow causing a mushroom or split. I would guess that the number oF people ‘not’ using footings overwhelm those that do. Conversely archers into heavy arrows and EFOC use footings almost exclusively.:D
in reply to: Broadheads #53109David Petersen wrote: Good points, Jay. I am anxious to learn the proven facts about “the many valid reasons for multiblade heads as there are for two-blade designs” that you mention. Ashby’s work and my own experiences, and that of many others I’ve talked with, provide the evidence for two-blade superiority. I’m hoping you will now educate me and us about the proven advantages of multi-blades over two-blades? I try to keep an open mind. Thanks
JASON I THOUGHT YOUR CHOICE OF BROADHEAD WAS AN ACE TWO BLADE. YOU MUST HAVE A RATIONAL FOR CHOOSING THE TWO BLADE.
I PERSONALLY HAVE NOT INCOUNTERED ANY RESEARCH SHOWING THAT THE THREE BLADE IS EQUIVALENT TO A TWO BLADE FOR PENETRATION
EVIDENTLY THERE IS. WOULD BE INTERESTED IN REVIEWING IT.
DAVEGREAT QUOTE …IT IS UNFORTUNATE THAT WEARE MORE VOCAL ABOUT PEOPLES TALENT AFTER THEY PASS INSTEAD OF WHEN THEY WERE LIVING .
GETTING BACK ON TOPIC I ALSO HAVE HEARD GOOD THINGS ABOUT THE WEREWOLF BROADHEAD:D
in reply to: We may be experiencing some turbulence… #27727BRUCE THAT WAS INTERESTING AND GOOD SHOOTING! I know you were looking at arrow flight in the wind,but do you think that your accuracy was better do to FOC.. Some times with high FOC on a windy day the arrow flight might not be perfect but the arrows end up where you want them??
in reply to: Insert/Adapters for glue-on heads? #27705Most do not use the one piece insert/adaptor when testing FOC arrows. They use glue in inserts that except a threaded broad head adaptor. When they get there final set up for broadheads they will use a insert/adaptor combination for their broad head arrows
Example when testing the final FOC arrow ended up with a 100 grain brass insert and a 75 grain adaptor. For their final arrow they would use a 175 grain insert/adaptor combo for their broad head arrow.
Adavantage of the insert/adaptor as mentioned above is the elimination of the joint between the adaptor and insert. I am sure that under the wrong/right circumstance the adaptor could be bent. Experience has shown bending occurs less frequent than with the two piece adaptor and insert combination.
If one is worried about bending the best set up I have found is a brass arrow insert and a screw in grade 5 titanium adaptor. I have tested this set up extensively and have not found a failure. I do use thread locking dope on the threads of the screw to eliminate the potential for it to loosen. I use this set up and presently have my 750 grain stumping arrows set up that way thinking I will come up with a failure…..not yet!:D
Yes using the one piece insert/adaptor makes it less convient to sharpen the broad head but not really any different than a wooden arrow with a broad head.:D
in reply to: EFOC Question #18632shaneharley wrote: I draw 51 pounds at 31 inches. I don’t shot past 15 yards. Thank you for the info. I’ll need to watch the video when I get a better Internet connection. Thanks again
If you keep your shooting yardage down between 700 and 800 might be a great arrow
Shanharleyuntil you can view the video on footings and make your own determination I would recommend that you use them they weigh about 25 grains
in reply to: EFOC Question #18521shaneharley wrote: I draw 51 pounds at 31 inches. I don’t shot past 15 yards. Thank you for the info. I’ll need to watch the video when I get a better Internet connection. Thanks again
I am sure David Petersen would have some suggestions maybe he will chime in 😀
in reply to: EFOC Question #18483shaneharley wrote: I am planning on switching to carbon arrows and running 300 grain Tuff heads. I understand that more weight up front is better for penetration but at what point is it too much? Or is it? I am going to have a 10.1 gpi arrow at 32 inches which comes to 323 grains. A 300 hundred grain head would bring me up to 623. I can put in 125 grain broad head to arrow adapter would put me up to 748 grains total weight. Is there any advantage to putting in a heavier adapter still to hit 800? Also should a guy put on the carbon arrow collars like they sell on the Tuff head site? Will they keep the arrow from splintering? Anyway I know this is a lot and I really appreciate all your help. Thank you
shaneharleySounds like fun. You don’t mention what weight bow you are planning this arrow around……There are multiple ways to design a arrow. It depends on the distances you normally shoot or what you might expect to shoot.
Example if you are planning on elk you might expect to take shots out to 30 yards+ .If you hunt deer mainly you would expect shorter shots. You have to decide what is going to be best for you and your hunting style
I am going to assume you have not purchased your arrows yet.
A good compromise in total arrow weight is to “strive” for less than 700 grains and more than 650 . ( 650 being approximate the weight required to breech bone). Newly developed carbon arrows are being offered in less weight per inch and are stiffer in spine. Less shaft weight will allow you to concentrate a larger percentage of total arrow weight up front (FOC).When designing a FOC arrows the old rule of thumb of 10 grains per inch can be ignored.
This compromise arrow would be suitable for all game in North America.It will also allow you to shoot if desired in the 3o+ yd range.You will get less drop than with the 800 grain arrow you suggested .I would expect that you would attain 30%+ EFOC. EFOC will also reduce drop at longer yardage ( don’t miss read this I don’t advocate long shots.Every one has a effective range that they are comfortable at and are accurate at. What I am saying is if you are comfortable and proficient at 30 yards this arrow will be better suited than the 800 grain arrow).
I do recommend that you pick the broadhead you wish to shoot and proceed to build you arrow around it. Their are a lot of ways to vary the weight up front beside the broadhead: inserts, adaptors and footing,
Before you buy broadheads experiment with the weight you plan to hang on the front.Field point ,adaptors and inserts can be
purchased in all sizes and weights and the investment is relativity afordable.
You will have to search for carbon arrows that fit your need. Bow weight, draw length .design of bow (cut to center ?) and weight on front.
There was a video posted some where that arrows were shot with out footings and with .It was very revealing I will try to find it and post it here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaiCiL2Jg04
I am sure I did not address your questions in full . EXPERIMENT:D:D
in reply to: Little Blackie takes a dirt nap #16577David Petersen wrote: I’m thinking that giant hogs are tougher than elk, thus the toughest NA animal to kill, thus the ultimate test of an arrow setup short of water buffalo. Your thoughts?
DAVID PETERSEN You comparing a hog to a water buffalo reminds me of a story.
When I started to manufacture the TuffHead I sent a broad head to Dr. Ed Ashby for him to critique 8). He said (paraphrasing) that the broadhead really needed to be tested on a large animal like Asian Buffalo or a large bore hog which he considered to be as tough. He new David (KING) and thought maybe I could convince him to test the TuffHead on those California Giant Hogs
I did not know David and really wondered about some one with a nick name King Wouldbe😀 but I called him and being the sport he is he agreed…….He killed a giant and got it all an video. The TuffHead preformed beyond my expectations and my thoughts of not pre judging a guy with a name of King also proved correct:D:D
KWB is the KING of hog slayers.
KING thanks for posting this kill.The pictures are great as well as the story of the hunt.Thanks for your help in the original TuffHead test and your continued support and loyalty to the TuffHead. I wanted to say that in public as that story has never been told to others. King “You are da man “:lol:
wojo14 wrote: Well, I did play with nock point. I raised it to 5/8 above 90. I never had go above this before.
Measurements:
length from nock valley to back of point=27 1/8″
nock valley to balance point= 18 1/
(I draw 26.5″)
wojo14
5/8 ” above might be higher than normal for your set up but not extreme.If it correct problem
Using your actual measurement figures the calculated FOC is 17.2811…I think we got screwed up measuring from center. Knock to balance point and arrow length are the figures to be plugged into the calculator:D
wojo14 wrote: Ok, just finished 6 woodies.
I bare shafting them to get 190 g heads to fly good.
They are, except I am getting a nose dive effect.??
Here is the specs.
60-65 Douglas Fir tapered
Cut from Nock valley to cut 28″
190 g tips.
584g ( with tip and nock(no feathers yet))
Caululations from Tuffhead’s web site shows a 33% foc.
arrows measure 27.25″ from nock valley to BOP.
And balance point is 4.5″ from center.
Is this normal? Will feathers correct this?
🙁
wojo14 Try changing you knock position. The dive is not normal unless maybe your arrow is stiff and bouncing off of the shelf.
Adding feathers will change your FOC measurements (balance point) 33% FOC is extremely high for a wood arrow. I ran your figures in the calculator and it does come out that way but it really does not sound right…Still thinking about that.Any way try your knocking point that would be the easiest.:D
Ao
in reply to: Splinter on recurve. Back it? #13174cpbiv wrote: I have a Bear Black Panther 52″ Recurve (kmart Kodiak Mag) and there is a 1/4″ glass splinter lifting on the lower limb below the handle. It’s not down on the lower part of the limb, so it doesn’t get as much stress, but in such a short bow, it’s stressed enough to warrant fixing. I’ll have to take a picture of it when I get home for further investigation. Would backing the bow with linen/snakeskin alleviate the problem?
cpbiv You might try filling with super glue. Even if you decide to back the bow I would still super glue it. Not sure anake skin would do any thing for it …….might hide super glue and probably look sharp..:D
David Petersen wrote: Joe, I remain unsure of the usefulness of this exercise, as all it tells us is what others are using … when what really matters to assure we recover every animal we shoot at, is how well an arrow performs on big game, especially with less than perfect shots. And as another contributor has noted, bow weight etc. does play in: the slower and lower weight the bow, the more weight and FOC we need to assure enough momentum to get the job done even with heavy bone hits, which arent’ all that rare. But if you want it, my friend, here it is, for now:
Dave thanks for posting As stated there are a lot of variables in building FOC arrows. If you were starting from scratch and have no experience experimenting with arrow weight or FOC I believe this information can be used as reference or staring point. Agreed bow weight is a big variable . By listing bow weight with the arrow information a beginner can find what others have done and what seems to work for them. By no means is this exercise perfect .
Because of all the variables that go into shooting more than likely one would not be able to take a 55 lb. long bow and copy my arrow stats and have a perfect flying arrow. They porbably could conclude thet with the same weight bow, draw length and desired FOC that a 350 carbon express arrow might be to stiff in spine to start experimenting with…
PS> I knew if I prodded you enough I could get you to post :D:D You are a leed voice on this forum. Others will follow.:arrow::arrow: Thanks friend:D
in reply to: Road trip with Elkheart #9842I would like to have been a fly on the wall………………….I hope Dave gets back to the TULLAMORE DEW tonic will kill you
:D:D:D
[quote=David Petersen]Doc Noc — Simply put, no matter the bow I’m shooting, I see definite and significant improvements in penetration with heavier arrows and higher FOC. I always put total weight first, minimum 650, before working on FOC. I keep waiting for Dr. Ed to criticize this possible oversimplification???
David P. like you say total weight is probably the goal before FOC it is like the chicken and egg thing which comes first. Actually as you know well they have to be worked in tandem. The total arrow weight should approach or exceed 650 grains to breach bone…. FOC arrows do very little for bone penetration but excel in soft tissue
I know you have done extensive experimenting with both wood and carbon arrows. Help us out and post your arrow specs.
I think it is important that we get some wood arrow specs.Not every one wants to shoot carbon or aluminum. Just as not every one want to exceed 650 grain arrows or attain EFOC ..That is ok also We need data on all arrows for comparison.:D
-
AuthorPosts
