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  • Stephen Graf
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      Post count: 2432

      Maybe not the advice you want, but…

      Take pictures.

      Have Fun.

      Don’t forget the Dickle. George Dickle that is 😀

      Stephen Graf
      Moderator
        Post count: 2432
        in reply to: Bow restoring #46866

        I don’t think there is anything you can do about it. The cracks themselves won’t shorten the life of the bow.

        But remember… Every bow ever built will fail eventually if it is used. Them’s just the facts.

        If the bow has value to you other than as a weapon, then (regardless of the cracks) you may want to hang it up.

        Stephen Graf
        Moderator
          Post count: 2432

          alexbugnon wrote: :D:D:D For you TV ignoramuses…

          I resemble that remark 8)

          Stephen Graf
          Moderator
            Post count: 2432

            DK wrote: Steve,

            What kind of jig do you have. My jig will not allow it to line up with where want it. The grain will not line up with where I want the cock feather.

            Thanks DK

            I’ve been using my bitzenburger jig lately with the fletching tape from bohning. Hard to beat.

            But i have a jo-jan 6 arrow fletcher too. Both will work as I mentioned – for 3 feathers at 120 degrees.

            For 4 fletch you can’t do as I suggested. You have to do as R2 suggested. For myself, I am happy enough with how the fletching jig affixes 4 fletch (X the string) that I don’t worry about it.

            Stephen Graf
            Moderator
              Post count: 2432

              Picking a Board – From what I understand, the douglas fir that lowes and home depot carry is “plantation” meaning second growth and young. Douglas Fir grows fast (like other conifers) for the first 60 years or so. Then it slows down and puts on strong wood. So you may need to look elsewhere. Although I plan to look in Lowes next time I’m there.

              What you want is wood that has a very tight grain pattern. Say 30 or more growth rings per inch. I went to the hardwood store in Gibsonville. They don’t have much douglas fir, but I found (2) 10 ft X 6 inch X 1 ” boards out of the 10 they had that had really tight grain. Cost me $40 bucks. Made 12 dozen blanks (might be a lifetime supply).

              Jig – I made a router jig similar to what you see people using for making arrows. It worked pretty well, but I need to make a few tweaks to it before cutting more shafts.

              I also made a jig to taper the last 9 inches or so of the shaft. That worked pretty well too.

              I’ve made about 2 dozen shafts, of those about 20 were keepers in the 70-75 spine range. So that will keep me for a while I think.

              So far I have 6 bunny buster arrows with “Hammer” piles. Been smacking them into some pretty hard stumps/rocks. Blew one of the “Hammers” to pieces yesterday. But the arrow is fine. Going to try some Ace Hex Blunts as they are cheaper and don’t have a reputation for being too brittle.

              Have to get ready for the NCBA Rabbit Hunt at the end of the month!

              Stephen Graf
              Moderator
                Post count: 2432
                in reply to: Bow restoring #45719

                If the cracks are longitudinal (running the length of the limb) that isn’t fatal damage. Glass that doesn’t have scrim (cross weave added to longitudinal fibers) tends to do that after a time.

                Stephen Graf
                Moderator
                  Post count: 2432

                  Sweet! Good retirement hobby. Just make sure to keep it a hobby…

                  Stephen Graf
                  Moderator
                    Post count: 2432
                    in reply to: Back stops #44726

                    eidsvolling wrote: Rubber Horse Stall Mat from Tractor Supply…

                    It weighs 100 pounds, so have a well-thought plan ready for hanging it…

                    I second this. In fact, I would also add that doubling it up works even better.

                    I have a target set up with 3 hay bales stacked up. I cut the rubber mat so it would sit behind the bales. After 6 months of shooting, I shot right through the mat with field points. So then I added the left over material in front of the shot out material. It’s been over 2 years and I haven’t come close to shooting through it. I believe the extra thickness allows more energy absorption without penitration.

                    For comparison, It takes me about a week to shoot out a block target.

                    -Southern States Carries the matts too. Wear some tight socks 😯

                    Stephen Graf
                    Moderator
                      Post count: 2432

                      R2 wrote: Nice! Lotta work uh?:D

                      Yea, but not that bad. Now that I know what I’m doing (sort of), it will go faster next time. All told, the arrows cost me about $0.40 (not counting point) to make. So that’s some consolidation, especially when I can’t find one after a really good shot 🙄

                      You can’t tell in the picture, but the yellow is really bright. I think it’s saved me a few lost arrows already. Hopefully the deer won’t mind it too much.

                      Stephen Graf
                      Moderator
                        Post count: 2432

                        Here’s some douglas fir arrows made from a board I got at the local lumber yard. They came in between 75 and 80 lbs spine and vary about 30 grains in weight (around 650 grains).

                        I stained them with some aniline stain and sealed wit poly. Fletching is from feathers picked up while walking/hunting. I will use them on squirrels and bunnies. If they last I may stick broad heads on them for next fall.

                        attached file
                        Stephen Graf
                        Moderator
                          Post count: 2432

                          Everything Doc says sounds true to me. I started with aluminum arrows as a kid, and when I was paying my own way, I moved to carbon. I tried wood arrows for exactly 1 season, back when I didn’t know FOC from COB, or any other combination of letters. Sent 3 arrows over the backs of deer, and slipped one through a deer and 3 inches in the dirt on the other side.

                          Didn’t think nutin of it. Stuck with the carbons cause I had bought the woods and had nothing invested but cash.

                          This winter I’ve taken to making wood arrows, from scratch. Start with a board, end up with a bunch of arrows. So far it has been fun and I can’t say I see much difference between the performance of the wood and carbon arrows. And for deer, I don’t think it matters much. But we’ll see.

                          We’ll see how long the fun of making arrows lasts. And we’ll see how they really do on deer. I might be singing a different tune next year at this time.

                          When it comes to big critters like elk and moose, I just can’t say what’s the right thing to do. Maybe I’ll feel differently in a year.

                          But for deer and small game, asking what’s better: carbon or hardwood, is a bit like asking whether blonds or brunettes are better. My answer to that is: yes!

                          Stephen Graf
                          Moderator
                            Post count: 2432

                            I just glue a 1 1/2 inch section of old aluminum arrow over the end of the shaft so that it lines flush with the insert face.

                            Never had a carbon shaft fail that was set up in this way.

                            But if you are bored, you’ll hate carbon shafts. Boring. Always work, no variation. Easy to set up. Always predictable terminal performance. BORING!!!

                            Stephen Graf
                            Moderator
                              Post count: 2432

                              I glue the nocks on the way they need to be to match up with the grain.

                              Then I take a sharpie and make a small mark on the shaft where I want the cock feather to be. That way, when I put the arrow in the jig, I can flip it over / rotate it in the jig till till I get the arrow oriented correctly for fletching. In my case, cock feather in.

                              If you want it somewhere other than in or out, you will have to do it as R2 suggests…

                              Stephen Graf
                              Moderator
                              Moderator
                                Post count: 2432

                                I’ve never taken a computer class, but I’d guess you watch the lectures on your own schedule, take the quizzes as you can, and that’s about it.

                                It’s free, you can’t screw it up.

                                Stephen Graf
                                Moderator
                                Moderator
                                  Post count: 2432

                                  colmike wrote: Steve

                                  You must have missed it while duck hunting–Mom posted it on weekly tips. Linda and I are signed up for it. Thanks for the reminder.

                                  Whoops 🙄 But I rest comfortably in the knowledge that not much has changed… I usually end up playing catch up.

                                  As my wife says, If I would just pay attention I would know what’s going on. 😳

                                  That’s ok. I’ll mull the error of my ways over while eating brined redhead’s over wild rice with a side of home grown green beens and roasted almonds and home made applesauce 8)

                                  This will be the first class I’ve taken in about 8 years. I’m as nervous as a little school girl…

                                Viewing 15 posts - 1,036 through 1,050 (of 2,329 total)