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in reply to: Bowfishing for Gar #14160
The WRC doesn’t actually do the testing. They get some other NC agency to do it (I can look back and figure it out if you want). But the bottom line is, they test carp and catfish. Carp feeding at the top, catfish at the bottom of the water column. So they “estimate” what the game fish might be from these readings… Not real comforting…
We were fishing down near the coast off highway 64. I forget the name of the town, but there was a big paper plant right on the river. There were 3 branches of the river that came together there called “three sisters”. Paper plants are a big source of water pollution. There were no notices posted on the public dock we used to launch the boat. But when I looked at the WRC website, it has the same warning for all the rivers, kids and pregnant women – no consumption, everybody else – 1 meal every 30 days. No thanks, I’ll pass.
Gar are such long lived fish that they have many many seasons to get polluted. The bigger the fish, the older they are. The ones we took were between 11 and 15 lbs and I estimated they were all over 6 years old. I understand that they commonly live up to 30 years in the wild…
in reply to: Bowfishing for Gar #13035I went gar fishing on the Roanoke river this past spring. My boy shot several as did I.
Using a tin snip to open the skin and a fillet knife to remove the “backstraps” I was able to clean about 5 fish in less than an hour.
I had heard that gar is some of the best eating, and judging by the meat I can believe it. But before cooking it I did a little research on contamination.
Being that gar are at the top of the food chain, they tend to have exceedingly high concentrations of heavy metals and pcb’s. Up to a 1000 times the concentration of other fish tested in the same polluted waters.
So with a heavy heart, I tossed the fish in the woods.
in reply to: Changing broadhead weight #11821Nothing like trying it out to see if it will work…
You can take a piece of 12 gauge copper electric wire and wrap it around the end of your field point to bring it up to 160 grains. Just a few inches will do.
Then shoot it and see what happens.
in reply to: Elm Møllegabet bow #9663You are getting better! That is a great looking bow.
What’s the difference between this bow and a holmgaard design?
in reply to: Grandson's Christmas present #63838Not only is he lucky, if he shoots a 48 lb bow, he must be pretty close to going hunting with his Gramps!
Maybe grandpa is lucky too…
Beautiful bow.
in reply to: new long bow #63833It’s really best to test a bow out before you buy it. I think 3 Rivers lets you test it out, as do many of the custom guys.
I’m sure some folks will chime in here saying how great the 3R bow is. So if that bow speaks to you, try it out. If it doesn’t work for you, it will cost you just the shipping.
in reply to: EFOC without the IF? #58172You can also glue about a 1 inch piece of aluminum arrow shaft over the end of the arrow. I did that this year and have found that it protects the arrow from mushrooming or breaking quite well.
But as has been said, carbon arrows are plenty tough by themselves. No modification needed.
in reply to: Beginner Basics #54897All I can add to what’s been said is to buy a used bow cheap. If you can find a shop somewhere close, they usually have a variety of used bows on the wall for $75.00 or so.
As you start out with traditional gear, your draw length will change, your release will develop, and your strength will develop. Not to mention your taste in bows.
Buying cheap bows will allow you to develop your tastes in equipment without causing you to break the bank, or tick off the wife… 🙄
in reply to: bow strings #54886A few years back I got a Bear Cheyenne recurve that came with the wrong string. It was an endless loop string at least 2 inches too long. In a fit of laziness, I twisted it up at least 2 inches. It worked just fine.
When I replaced the string a year later or so, I bought a string that was the same length as the now twisted up factory string.
Then I learned to make my own flemish stings, and haven’t been stuck for a string since 😀 .
in reply to: Hardwood Arrows #45995It’s not how they fly, it’s how they penetrate. I would like to use wood, just because. But I am a meat hunter, and carbon arrows bring home the meat.
Target shooters can use them because their score isn’t dependent on target penetration.
Just so’s nobody takes these for fighting words… I know wooden arrows in the hands of the right people will be just as deadly as carbon arrows in my hands. It’s just that I can’t count on making a perfect shot every time….
in reply to: River Cane arrows #44800Look up “Eagles Flight Archery” in Mebane NC. I don’t think Don sells it on his website, but he grows it in his backyard and has it bundled up and ready to go.
He has the Japanese Arrow Bamboo.
But don’t mention my name. He may charge you twice as much!
in reply to: Flint Quest #44789The intro says he is using “self gear” but the bow is a modern takedown fiberglass bow. Hmmmmm.
in reply to: Grunting 101 #37578I have used the can, antlers, and all the stuff. What I have found is that in my neck of the woods, it brings in the little fellas. But the south is a tough place for a deer to make a living in peace. I think that by the time a deer gets to be 3 years old, he is way too wise for this stuff.
Specifically to the can – I have heard does vocalize many times in the woods. I have never heard one whine. It is always a short sound. When I use the can, I cut the time down to less than a second.
My highest use for grunts and bleats is to stop a buck for the shot. I have found that I can do a better job imitating the doe sounds I have heard in the woods with my own voice.
But, as I said before, I think the effectiveness of calls really depends on where you hunt and how the deer population is managed, and the buck/doe ratio.
in reply to: Oh where, oh where have the Moose all gone… #37562While I have harvested a big old bull with my bow,…. I am no expert. In fact, I know almost nothing about moose behavior.
With that said, I have read a few articles that discussed behavior a bit. From what I remember, moose tend to move from the rivers to the hills and back based on the season and the weather.
It may be that the place you scouted in the summer is always full of moose in the summer, and not in the fall. My humble advice is to scout now, when you would be hunting, to see where the moose are this time of year. If you only get 1 chance every 5 years, I’d be scouting all the falls in between and forget the summer scouting.
in reply to: Arrow length #34216Brad – you are right. We are talking about two arrows that are both spined correctly for the bow.
The center of mass is that point about which the mass is balanced. So if you balance the arrow on a knife blade, the balance point is the center of mass.
If both arrows are spined correctly, that means that they flex around the bow in such a way that their trajectory is directly at the target and they are not deflected by the handle.
So, as I mentioned before, if you make a perfect shot with either arrow, it will fly perfectly to the target.
But… If you don’t make a perfect shot. If you torque the handle, or drop the bow, or pluck the string, etc… The longer arrow will tend to be less affected and continue on its intended path and hit closer to the mark than a shorter arrow.
To demonstrate this, take the long stick again. This time hold the end of it in your hand and “aim” it at a target and throw it. Now try the same experiment with a much shorter stick, again holding it by the very back. You will have a much harder time getting the shorter stick to the target.
In short, the longer the distance between the string (point of thrust) and the arrow center of mass, the more forgiving the arrow will be when shot. Duncan basically said this when he observed that the closer the center of mass is to the handle, the more stable the arrow flight will be…
We have talked too much about this. It is very easy to test. Just take a full length arrow and a short arrow. Tune ’em up and then shoot them 10 times each. Measure your groups. I am betting the longer arrow will give you a better group. 😀
If not, then you will be by definition, a much better shot than me (not that great a claim to fame 🙄 ). For it means you have perfect form.
It’s like shooting a bow with very low brace height. It is well established (I hope) that a high brace height is more forgiving. But if you are a great shot, then it doesn’t matter what the brace height is. For you will always shoot well. But for a poor shot like me, I need all the help I can get, so I try to tease as much brace height out as I can…
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