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in reply to: Arrow tuning #56572
Bare shaft tuning – shooting an unfletched arrow into a target and observing the angle of entry – left/right and or up/down. No paper involved. Shooting distance about 15 yds.
Paper Tuning – shooting an arrow (fletched or unfletched) through paper at a shooting distance of 6 feet or so. Observe angle of tear in paper. Determine point entry and nock passage to determine angle of arrow in flight. Tricky stuff.
Try shooting bare shaft into target at 15 yds. See if you get the same results as your paper tuning test is showing. 3/4 in high nock ok. Nock left, weak shaft. Nock right, stiff shaft.
Nothing gained by “sneaking up” on point weight. If you have access to heavier field tips, give it a try 150, 175, 200, 250…
I am guessing your carbon arrow with a 100 grain point weighs 500 grains or less. Going to a 125 grain tip changes your weight by 1/20th (5%) or so.
I’m sorry I don’t have anything better to tell you… It seems you have found the opposite of the sweet spot for your arrow setup. So instead of dwelling on it, get as far away from it as you can. Add more weight…
in reply to: Arrow tuning #55563I don’t have the second video, so I can’t help there. But I am still wondering if there isn’t something simple that is being overlooked. I say this because the difference in tear seems too dramatic.
My experience with carbon arrows is that I can vary the weight of a point 100 grains without much change in arrow flight.
My experience with paper tuning is that it is helpful with compound bows and releases, but for finger release trad bows it’s not that helpful.
I have a friend who always shoot bare shafts into the target butt nock high. No matter what. But his arrows fly just fine. It bothers him too. My bare shaft arrows fly just like my fletched arrows. (This may speak to the point in the video you mentioned)
Have you tried bare shaft tuning? Or how about just putting those heavier points into your regular arrows and shooting them. How do they fly when you shoot at 20 yds?
One more question/observation while I am wasting your time… 125 grains isn’t much more than 100 grains. If you are going to take the time(and suffer all the frustration 😈 ) to change your setup, why not up your point weight to 150 or 175, or… 200 grains?
in reply to: Arrow tuning #51055A six inch tear isn’t likely a “real” result. My guess is that your target got too close to the paper and thus the arrow was entering the target before getting all the way through the paper.
Move the target back at least 2 arrow lengths…
in reply to: Questions about strings, twists, and brace height #46678katman wrote: Other thing you can try is a piece of adhesive felt on the limb where the string touches the curve, some strings make a lot of noise slapping into the limb. B50 stretches so carry the felt about 2 inches past wear the string leaves the limb.
Another method to achieve this is to wrap the string below the loop in yarn. Basically serve the string with it. The advantage to the yarn over the adhesive felt is that the yarn won’t get your bow sticky. I have also experienced a lot of slippage with the adhesive felt. If you decide to try the yarn, use the thickest yarn you can get. As you serve it on, it gets pulled thin as you wrap it on.
in reply to: modern mendelbrot bow #42517I don’t know the exact history, other than it came from bows dug up from bogs in northern Europe.
The idea is that the tips are extra narrow and deep. This gives them more stiffness and less weight. Thus moving the bending part of the limb down toward the riser…
In my case, I ended up increasing the depth of the limb until the tips were stiff, but it added more wood than would have been there had I just done a normal tip.
For whitewood bows, the design probably does help achieve the best bow possible. For a glass laminated bow, it really didn’t help much. But it was a fun project. If the bow had turned out heavier, I would have used it for hunting.
I think the heavy tips might help stabilize the bow some. It really shoots well.
in reply to: Film Review of Essential Encounters #42030Hmmmm. That’s a mighty glowing review. It sounds like these films are in the style of the Fred Bear films. Curious that his name wasn’t mentioned except that one of his guides is interviewed in the extra stuff…
I guess I’ll have to break down and buy a hunting video, and see for myself. I’ve never watched the outhouse channel 😯 , nor do I own any hunting videos other than the Fred Bear ones. But I have seen enough of them to know about the off-putting mentality you speak of.
If I end up wasting my money 👿 😈 …
in reply to: Starting Some New Ones #39582Very Nice! So are you keeping that one, or letting it go?
And btw, way to conserve that plastic bottle. I’m sensitive like that too. Nothing worse than a bulls eye full of holes to mess up concentration.
I hope you post a few more pictures, after it has a finish on it…
in reply to: Whole deer vs. boning #384428)
in reply to: Pen Advice #38438I got a tip from a fellow that uses ipe a lot. Ipe, being oily, doesn’t take finishes well. So he puts a coat of lacquer on first.
What he told me was that the new lacquers are more flexible than old formula’s and will thus handle bow flex. It also doesn’t seem to make ink bleed.
So I tried it. I put a coat of lacquer over the writing, and then used poly as usual. It worked well. And it seems to give the poly a better feel and deeper look.
Who’d a thunk.
in reply to: Wind check feather #35701Homer, you are a hoot!
in reply to: 2011: First strike, first loss. #29938I’ve shot rabbits with blunts and broadheads. My experience is that both go through the rabbit. Rabbits are such soft critters.
But I have to say that the broadhead shot rabbits didn’t go nearly as far.
I like the washer behind the broadhead.
My current setup is just to add a washer behind my field point. I don’t think it is as effective as your broadhead/washer setup. But it is a lot cheaper. And so far, on the few rabbits I have shot with it, it has worked fine.
in reply to: Whole deer vs. boning #27839So Dave…. you’ve been uncharacteristically silent on this thread…
I hope I didn’t come off harsh or defensive. I may have gotten a little jerked up about the topic ’cause around here people shoot deer in the road, cut off the back straps, and call it “boned out”.
There are some “traditions” in the south east that don’t need reinforcement. And in my humble opinion, this is one of them.
Sorry for the tone…
in reply to: Bow Weight Reduction #24593I think the best way to do this is by “trapping” the limbs. You can shed 5 or more pounds by trapping the back of the bow. I saw a really heavy bow deeply trapped on the belly of the bow to reduce weight, and it shot well and didn’t look bad at all.
I concur with Kegan. It’s not good to thin the glass. Keep looking. There are a number of good bowyers that provide the service I just described
in reply to: Sealing Some Surewood shafts #20063First, I have to give Dennis a general Well Done and Thank You. You have been making some great posts lately showing how things work.
I hope this means you have come into some extra time and are enjoying yourself.
To the point of the thread – I have recently started to use and really like minwax wipe-on poly. It seems to last forever and is easy to apply. Very little stink. And makes a nice finish after 2 or 3 coats.
I have used it on 3 small tables and 1 bow. and I still have the better part of a quart can left! When I get around to some arrows, I will not hesitate to use it on them.
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