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in reply to: Chopping wild turkey feathers. Help! #38608
I don’t know, but maybe carolina feathers are different from the rest of the country…
Here’s my experience with how to split the feather, and toughness/stiffness:
– If the feather is dry, then I cut off the very tip of the feather and the thick end of the feather with a scissor. Then I can use my fingernails to split the tip. Then I can carefully pull the quill apart. No need for a razor.
– I have found natural turkey feathers to be tougher/stiffer than store bought feathers. To me, it only makes sense. Store bought feathers come from farm raised white turkeys that have been bread for generations to produce a lot of breast meat, not fly.Setting aside all matters of economics and access to natural feathers, here is the question: If you want your arrows to fly straight, why would you use feathers from a bird that can’t fly at all?
in reply to: Tapered laminations #34820I’ve seen the tapers all through the “stack”. But for me, if the other laminations are all full length, then the easiest place for the laminations is on the belly side, since they won’t need to be butted together…
I don’t think it matters much. Do what is easiest and will make the best looking bow to you.
in reply to: Ultra-EFOC, Heavy Bows and Long Draws #31327My experience is that an efoc arrow is less sensitive to spine. The thing to remember is excess weight in the shaft and feather end rob the arrow of forward weighting.
I have used gold tip arrows with the most success. I have tried the tapered arrows and not gotten good results. But each to his own I suppose. Gold tips are a good deal as far as carbons are concerned.
I used to be a Carbon Express fan. But I found the gold tips were better for me. I attribute it to the fact that the gold tips are about 2 grains/inch lighter…
My other recommendation is to shoot the arrows full length if you can. The longer the arrow, the more stable it will be.
in reply to: Longbow For a Cousin #29156Story… What story? Must be a different guy… Damn. I’ve thought about writing something for the magazine, but I’ve never come up with anything original, or worth reading that would live up to the the standards of TBM.
Now, apparently, I have the added challenge of not even having an original name… I guess I’ll have to come up with a pseudonym now too. Let me think….. I’ve got it.. I’ll call my self Dave Petersen, nobody’s heard that name before I am sure… No Don Thomas… No Dave Thomas… No Don Petersen… Oh, damn… I guess I’ll just renew my subscription and live in anonymity 😳
BTW – I do the rasp thing on the arrow shelf too.. But the fiberglass sure beats the hell out of my tools. I’m thinking there has to be a better way… I always use junk rasps cause I can’t see ruining a good one on every bow.
I’m going out to the shop this am to lay up what promises to be my best bow yet. Her sister died after 1000 shots or so ’cause when I was tillering her I had to get drastic to get the weight down. This bow has a thinner core and should fall right into tiller/weight. It’s a glorious morning here, perfect day for a bow to be born…
in reply to: Longbow For a Cousin #28133Dennis,
I always like to find out how people do their arrow shelf’s… I noticed your lines and how you did the initial cutout… I am wondering what you used to radius the shelf and finish the back corner to the shelf?
in reply to: screw-in adapters for woodies #24813This is my ever so humble and ignorant opinion, so please don’t crucify me for my intolerance. But…
Trying to put something metal, other than a broadhead, on the end of a wooden arrow to improve its performance is like putting wheels on the end of a bow limb to improve its performance.
Having said that, I stay with carbons and admit my less than perfect return to tradition, and my less than perfect skill.
And having said that, I have been thinking about those laminated wooden shafts called hex shafts. I was thinking about playing with some and putting a foot made from dymonwood on the front of them. That, I believe would be a killer setup.
Anybody used the hex shafts I speak of?
in reply to: String Silencers what is the best for you ? #24801BRUC wrote: Dabersold, that does look Good !!
How do you attach the fur to the string and how big a piece is it before it is installed?
BruceOn the 3Rivers website, they have a how to video on installing beaver fur silencers…
Because my wife is a compulsive knitter and collector of yarn, I just make my own from her scraps. I think the best silencers I have used are muskrat. But not good enough to beat the price of free yarn scraps.
I have a beaver I have been playing around with. If I manage to work myself up to actually harvesting him, I may turn his hide into silencers. A lifetimes worth I suppose…
And after we dine on his wonderful tail, I will use the skin on my next bow…
OK, fantasy time over. Back to work.
in reply to: Arrow swinging off shelf #18103If the arrow is being torqued, it means you are shooting split fingers…
I think the root cause is that you may be crabbing your hand. As you get ready to draw, concentrate on relaxing your hand so that it stays in line with your wrist and fore arm. Also- your elbow may be getting high, concentrate on keeping your elbow down and in line with the arrow.
Shooting 3 fingers under relieves this problem. Can’t torque the arrow if you aren’t pinching the arrow with your fingers…
in reply to: tuning nocks #18099I don’t have any good advice for a short term fix. But in the long term… Once you find some arrows you like, then you can adjust your string to fit your nocks. This is done with serving thickness and number of strands.
Making your own strings frees you up from this problem, and others. It is an easy skill to learn, and saves money in the long run. And is fun.
You can get a string making board, serving, and string material from 3rivers and others. It’s a 100 dollar investment. But you won’t have to tweak your nocks in the future…
in reply to: Sad to say….. #12509When things look down and you think your state is doing something bad, just look to some other southern state to make you feel better…
In North Carolina, there is a bill in the legislature to make it legal for dog hunters to trespass on posted property without permission.
in reply to: Kinetic Pulse #7950Smithhammer wrote: The third half of the equation (lol), and arguably the most important one, comes from real world experimentation, which sometimes seems to fly in the face of theory.
If experimentation and theory don’t agree,… then a new theory is needed… 🙄
I thought the description of how the wound channels changed based on changes in energy and momentum was interesting. Not directly applicable to archery, but interesting.
And, as I said before, I like the idea of combining both important properties of energy and momentum. I was hoping to read some experiments that showed that bullets with a certain KP would behave exactly the same regardless of how it was achieved : ie 2 * 3 = 3 * 2 but the article didn’t go that way.
And, there was very little else on the internet, or anything in Wikipedia about it, so it doesn’t seem to be a common measure. Thus indicating it’s value may be limited… Oh well.
I’m not sure if this is what you mean, but when I lock the deck down to be square, I hold a square to the belt and deck. then I adjust and lock down the deck.
I did find that the index on the table lock mechanism isn’t exactly at 90 degrees. So I use the square every time…
in reply to: Just like a bad penny… #61686What Dave said…. Not that I am sharp enough to come up with a joke anyway 😕
in reply to: Arrow tuning #56572Bare shaft tuning – shooting an unfletched arrow into a target and observing the angle of entry – left/right and or up/down. No paper involved. Shooting distance about 15 yds.
Paper Tuning – shooting an arrow (fletched or unfletched) through paper at a shooting distance of 6 feet or so. Observe angle of tear in paper. Determine point entry and nock passage to determine angle of arrow in flight. Tricky stuff.
Try shooting bare shaft into target at 15 yds. See if you get the same results as your paper tuning test is showing. 3/4 in high nock ok. Nock left, weak shaft. Nock right, stiff shaft.
Nothing gained by “sneaking up” on point weight. If you have access to heavier field tips, give it a try 150, 175, 200, 250…
I am guessing your carbon arrow with a 100 grain point weighs 500 grains or less. Going to a 125 grain tip changes your weight by 1/20th (5%) or so.
I’m sorry I don’t have anything better to tell you… It seems you have found the opposite of the sweet spot for your arrow setup. So instead of dwelling on it, get as far away from it as you can. Add more weight…
in reply to: Arrow tuning #55563I don’t have the second video, so I can’t help there. But I am still wondering if there isn’t something simple that is being overlooked. I say this because the difference in tear seems too dramatic.
My experience with carbon arrows is that I can vary the weight of a point 100 grains without much change in arrow flight.
My experience with paper tuning is that it is helpful with compound bows and releases, but for finger release trad bows it’s not that helpful.
I have a friend who always shoot bare shafts into the target butt nock high. No matter what. But his arrows fly just fine. It bothers him too. My bare shaft arrows fly just like my fletched arrows. (This may speak to the point in the video you mentioned)
Have you tried bare shaft tuning? Or how about just putting those heavier points into your regular arrows and shooting them. How do they fly when you shoot at 20 yds?
One more question/observation while I am wasting your time… 125 grains isn’t much more than 100 grains. If you are going to take the time(and suffer all the frustration 😈 ) to change your setup, why not up your point weight to 150 or 175, or… 200 grains?
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