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in reply to: Red Cedar Shafts ? #56526
Well I’ve learned a lot about these trees from this thread. I’ve known that our Eastern Red Cedar was a Juniper. But the rest has been news to me. Thanks all!
I’ve been making some laminated bows lately from some ERC on our property. Following an initial blow up after about 4 months of use, and some design changes, the bows have been working really well. In fact I have had 3 offers to buy my latest bow in just the last week.
I’ve been thinking of building on this success by trying some arrows too. But instead of just making shafts (which I don’t think you could get to spine out and would be unreliable due to the lack of long pieces without knots) I was thinking of laminating some strips of wood together. That way, it would be easier to control the knots, and it would have the added advantage of glue lines and easy grain orientation when fletching.
I am talking about just copying the idea of the laminated birch shafts you see on the market.
Or… even more cool, but tough would be glueing up some shafts like flyrods. Either 4 or 6 pieces.
But I think I would try just the laminated version first.
in reply to: Broad head advice #54356Most, if not all, states have a minimum width requirement for broadheads. But I never heard of a maximum length…
But I believe you are right. You will get away with it, you scoundrel 🙄 😆
I think a single bevel broadhead of whatever make is a major advance over a double bevel head. I have shot 10 big game animals in the last 3 years with them, and not one has travelled out of sight. I cannot say I have ever had a streak like that before. Hopefully it will continue this year…
in reply to: REAL primitive bowhunting! #54334Who’d a thunk. Ain’t the world full of good stuff? Great website!
in reply to: Just playing the waiting game now #53176Beautiful!
in reply to: Ancient crafts #53169Very interesting! But I find it hard to believe that the shovel would last longer digging, than it took to make it.
I thought it was going to be some sort of bowl for making food.
in reply to: REAL primitive bowhunting! #52104Yes but… Her legs are shaved silky smooth, her hair is perfectly combed in every scene. Her cloths are never wrinkled and always spottless…
I’m not complaining, I’m just saying… it seems a little too good to be true. If it is true, she is the girl I could ruin my life for 😳
in reply to: Washer Weights? #46557I don’t know a thing about the washers, but…
200 grains is a fairly modest weight. What about looking at the insert in your broadhead? I am sure you can get there by using steel inserts, which come in 75, 100, and 125 grain weights.
in reply to: Dipping fail #45420Or….
It seems to me that each new layer of lacquer melts with the last. I wonder if you could dip them again and “erase” the problem?
You could try one arrow and see what happens…
in reply to: Retro Longbow arrows #43083Did you say 6 1/2 in feathers? Did you cut them yourself?
in reply to: UEFOC Fish arrow build? #40809jpcarlson wrote: Steve,
Thanks for sharing your ideas and experience. I don’t know what kind of carp you have to shoot where you are, but the big boys we have out here in the Dakotas have given me troubles since boyhood with penetration…
Jans
Down here in the hot and humid south, they are mushy. Maybe your carp aren’t any harder… They are just frozen 😀
in reply to: UEFOC Fish arrow build? #39423Fish arrows are very heavy. Therefore making an UEFOC fish arrow is probably impractical.
Bowfishing is a slimy business. I just buy the cheap fiberglass arrows setup with points and don’t worry about it.
Carp are so mushy, the problem is not limited penetration, but passthroughs that require a lot of effort to get the arrow back through the fish so the line doesn’t have to be cut.
In fact, there are some tutorials on the internet for making penetration limiting stops for the arrow to keep it from going all the way through.
I’ve shot many gar with the old cheap fiber glass arrow and had no troubles at all. Now that’s a tough fish.
in reply to: Making flemish twist strings #39408Aside from the string, you will need a string jig.
There are tutorials on the internet explaining how to make a string jig. From those tutorials, you will learn how to size the string.
Or… you could save yourself some time and trouble and just order the string jig that 3Rivers sells. It comes with good instructions and will have you making strings in no time.
Making strings is, imho, one of the best ways to save a little money and get a better match to what you need than buying strings. After you’ve made 3 or 4 strings, you’ve paid for your supplies.
Don’t forget to buy serving. If you are going with B50, then I would suggest nylon serving. It comes in a variety of colors and lasts about as long as the B50.
in reply to: String Leeches Vs. Beaver Balls #39397I’m mostly deaf, so says my wife… But almost anything soft will work as a string silencer. Even a piece of soft leather will do a good job.
I second otter as a good silencer. From what I can tell, it seems like it might be close to the best.
But if cost is a consideration, string leaches are expensive for what they do. As are most of the rest of the commercial solutions.
I use scrap yarn from my wife’s pile of knitting supplies. I have found that synthetic yarns aren’t worth a hoot. But any natural fiber from sheep, goat, alpaca, etc will work great. And it is essentially free if it is left-overs.
in reply to: Cut carbon shafts with flat file #38164Nice!
in reply to: tapered wood arrows #34398Dave,
You can strengthen the self nocks. Once you have determined the orientation of the nock, but before you have cut them in… You can cut a slot 90 deg to the orientation of the nock that runs say 1/2 in deeper than the nock. Then glue insert a piece of osage wood or plastic, or antler that is the same width as the kerf you just cut. Let it cure. then cut your nocks in as usual. Your “composite” wings will be stronger. But they won’t be self nock’s anymore.
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