Forum Replies Created
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David Petersen wrote: They are also great for hammering out fender dents.
Which, in turn is a great way to tenderize them for possible consumption.
I hope to have a few soon – my wife’s rig has a dent or two that needs attention….
Oh, and seriously – great post, Mike. That last pic is priceless.
SteveMcD wrote:
Just 3 tips.. 1) Focus on your form first, if your form is on, the bow will take care of the rest, 2) it’s very easy to make this stuff complex and there really is no need to be, and 3) Have fun! 8)
Couldn’t agree more. Sometimes the wisest advice is also deceptively simple.
etter1 wrote:
This one could get western pretty quick.
I would expect nothing less!
As far as I can tell at this point, I should be able to make a January hunt happen.
Arid zone A wrote:
A forum for just group hunts ? That would be cool. Thanks Mom.
Thanks, Mom!After fletching up some 3 x 4″ w/out wraps, here are all the weight/calcs (all with a 300 gr. head):
Bareshaft: 26.3% FOC
4 x 2-1/4″ fletch: 25.4% FOC
3 x 4″ w/out wraps: 24.7% FOC
3 x 4″ with wraps: 23.6% FOC
So the difference between option 2 & 3 is barely more than 1/2 of 1%. And as a side note, the 4″ feathers add 12gr. of weight to a bareshaft.
Frankly, I’m not too concerned about a a difference of a mere 1/2 of 1% so I think it really comes down to which is most stable in flight with a large broadhead. Which means it’s time to fling some arrows!
Update:
So I’ve been shooting 4 x 2-1/4″ fletching for the last year or so, and generally been pretty happy with the results.
But just out of curiosity, I got out an old 3 x 4″ fletch, cap-wrapped arrow that I had, and decided to compare FOC on both of them, all other things (point weight, etc) being equal:
FOC on the top arrow: 23.6%
FOC on the bottom arrow: 25.4%
I was a little surprised at how close they were, so I triple-checked my measurement, and yup – less than 2% difference. I suspect that removing the wrap on the top arrow would put them even closer.
So with a minimal difference in FOC, the question I really need to answer is – which one provides the most flight stability in a variety of conditions, with a broadhead?
The experiments continue in the quest for my ‘perfect’ arrow, but the process sure is fun. And at least it’s based on first-hand experience, rather than assumptions…:wink:
A recent Natchez-style Bowie that I picked up:
And a little background on Bowies. Contrary to popular belief, there really is no single “Bowie” knife design, nor even a standard size. Most historians agree that the knife that Jim Bowie used at the infamous Vidalia Sandbar fight, which started the “Bowie” craze, looked nothing like the far more ornate Bowie knives that came later (i.e. the Alamo era), and that most people still think of when they imagine a “Bowie” knife.
The knives made in and around Natchez that JB was carrying at Vidalia, influenced by Spanish and French knives that were popular at the time, was a far more simple and straightforward knife, with a coffin handle and prominent swedge, like this original:
Only years later did they evolve into the more well-known style of Bowie with the bulkier blade, exaggerated clip point, full guard, pommel etc:
Personally, I really prefer the simpler, earlier style of Bowie knife. I’m a sucker for a well-done swedge and a coffin handle. 8)
colmike wrote:
A tutorial from Bruce would be nice he seems to speak grunt language and post’s great photo’s and video’s.
Mike –
I had to go back and look at the pics in question, and I’m afraid that your better half is absolutely right (as usual 8) ).
I don’t want to write a novel here, but this is my basic recipe for a half-way decent photo:
Pour yourself a pint of good beer. And I mean good beer, not some syrupy yellow swill. I don’t even care if you like good beer or not, this is work and it’s not supposed to be fun. Now drink.
I’m assuming you don’t want to drink that pint first thing in the morning, so wait until you have good evening light. Don’t take pics in the middle of the day – the light will either be harsh, or flat. Bottom line – you can’t take a good pic without good light.
Once you have good light, find a good background. A mesh patio table is not a good background. 🙄 Find something that contrasts nicely with the subject of your photo, and that isn’t busy. Once you have these two key factors in place, take another sip or two and savor the fact that you are outside and that life is good.
Now think about angle and composition. How can you emphasize what you are shooting in an interesting way?
Once you have truly considered all these things, and you have good light, a fitting background and a good composition, it’s time to take another sip.
And now for the really hard part – give the camera to Lin and ask here to take some pictures, upload them for you, optimize them using some sort of photo software and crop/resize them appropriately….while you cook her dinner.
Behind all good photographers there is usually an even more talented assistant.
