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in reply to: Stubborn fletching glue? #30008
Thanks all. Diligent scraping, followed by sanding with an extra fine grit did the trick.
in reply to: Bird Points #30003Let us know how it goes. I’ve taken many pheasant with a shotgun, but this year I really want to try and take one with my old K-Mag. I’m going to use Steelforce Phathead 4-blades with Scorpios backing them up. Fletching up some sprial flu-flus this week to round out the package.
in reply to: " Primitive " Bowfishing Video #27279Very cool! Loved seeing the process. More!
in reply to: what to do with feathers in the rain #25388I apply a little bit of Loon Aquel (floatant for dry flies), spreading it around in between my fingers first and then work it into the feather, and let it dry before going out. It doesn’t stiffen up at all. Do this a few times throughout the season.
in reply to: Bird Points #25303For forest grouse, judo points will work fine.
While I’ve never shot them, I’ve heard that those “snaro” type wire points don’t fly very well, particularly out of lower-speed trad bows.
Pheasants are tough. They are much harder to knock down, and keep down, than grouse in my experience. If you just injure them, they’ll hit the ground running, and good luck finding them without a dog. I would use whatever is going to do the most damage on impact with a pheasant.
in reply to: OUCH…..my nose!!! #24257Kidding aside, I can’t image that hitting your nose with the string would be a good thing for a clean release (or for your nose). Putting a band-aid on seems like a weird and counter-productive step to me. Better to move your face slightly to face the target with no interference, imo.
in reply to: OUCH…..my nose!!! #24052I think 3 Rivers offers a Cordovan nose flap?
Sorry, couldn’t resist.
in reply to: screw on tuffheads #21117vintage archer wrote:
This is not a anouncement just thinking which always gets me in trouble.Which is a healthy thing, from time to time, and should be encouraged.
And I have no idea why my post is blue.
in reply to: screw on tuffheads #20184vintage archer wrote:
A 300 grain screw on broadhead will always be a 300 grain broadhead while 225 grain glue on head can be less than 300 grains using aluminum or titanium adapters. Using standard steel adapters, the glue on 225 grain head could be 300,325 0r 350 grains.Couldn’t you achieve similar results with a screw-on head and various weighted inserts?
in reply to: Hunting Encounters #20053I wasn’t bowhunting, but birdhunting the other day , when Hank and I got charged by a very pi$$ed off badger. They are such impressively ornery, fearless critters. I think it was about to take the face off my dog, and I have no doubt it would have.
in reply to: SBD bowstrings? #20045Thanks, Dave. That confirms just about everything else I’ve heard. I ordered an 8 strand with w/twist wraps.
Like the new quote in your signature, by the way.
in reply to: Mechanical Broadheads #20038Ah, gotcha. Sorry if I misinterpreted your post. And I agree.
in reply to: Plaid Shirts #19930Just got one of the Asbell sleeveless hooded pullovers. Love it. Keeps my core warm but my arms free. And it’s a great brown/black plaid with a litte red thrown in too.
in reply to: Mechanical Broadheads #19536BRUC wrote:
I agree fully with everyone about mechanical broadheads being, maybe, not all that good.The only exception would apply to someone that has difficulty sharpening.
Respectfully, I would argue that a lack of good sharpening skills still shouldn’t necessitate something like having to resort to a mechanical. If you purchase a good broadhead, such as a Stinger (and there are other examples) that already comes with a reasonably sharp edge, all that is required to get them super sharp is a few swipes with something like an Accu-Sharp. Anyone can do that in a few minutes and have a very sharp edge that they can feel confident hunting with.
And then, I suppose that if you want to take your sharpening skills to the next level, you can graduate to any number of “fine” broadheads that come out of the package with a crummy edge, haha…
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