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in reply to: Chek-Mate strings. #34369
hunterbow wrote: Ok guys need some help on this subject. Have two Hunter 2 made by chek-mate. And need to replace the strings on them. I am wondering what string to go with on these. Getting ready for an elk hunt out west and want to get everthing in order now. Before time slips up on me thanks for the help.
I’ve owned three Hunter 2s (great bows, by the way). They are compatible with all modern bowstring materials, and if memory serves, they came standard with Dyna 97 flemish strings.
in reply to: Concerns regarding speed and kinetic energy #34366I’m not sure how I missed this one earlier.
Personally, I’m always skeptical whenever people want to define lethality by some ratio or number spit out by a chronograph or grain scale. A few year ago I saw a chart on an arrow manufacturer’s web site that listed the minimum Ke required for a lethal shot on a bull moose was 60 foot-pounds. I guess the bull on my wall didn’t get the memo. According to some other measures, I probably shouldn’t be able to shoot through anything bigger than a chocolate Easter bunny. It’s funny how dogma doesn’t always reflect reality.
In the end, I concur with Don’s advice. I know my equipment is more than up to the task at hand. That’s probably why I spend a lot of time working on my shooting skills and pretty much zero playing around with different arrows and such.
in reply to: Aiming Methods #34359paleoman wrote: I’m sure this subject has been beat to tar…but how many of you consciously use a “method” and how many don’t think about it. I’m finally getting back to the “kid” way of shooting – I just point the arrow where I want it to go with a little up or down for elevation and there it goes. Seems the more I have to think about it the worse it is.
Over the past nearly 30 years I’ve shot pretty much every barebow method there is — instinctive, gap, point of aim, string walking, etc. Each have their advantages and disadvantages. For the vast majority of my shooting, I settled on a gap method many years ago. But when the situation calls for it, I’ll switch to one of the other methods without a problem.
in reply to: binoculars vs spotting scope #34354I agree with Cyberscout about using a binocular harness. I have a set of Alpen 10×42 roof prisms with a harness that I use for hunting anything from pigs in TX to elk in CO, whitetails at home, and moose in Ontario. I also use them for 3D shoots and field archery. They’re not the best optics around, but they get the job done.
in reply to: Adhesive for tip inserts/carbon #33865Of course there’s something to it. Manufacturers’ instructions and warning labels are written from the assumption that the average consumer has zero common sense. It’s called CYA (cover your a–). If I was a carbon arrow manufacturer I wouldn’t tell my customers they could use hot melt either. Sure as heck, someone would crank the torch on high and lay the end of the shaft in the flame like it’s an Easton Aluminum. And then when he barbecued his shafts, I’d end up having to replace them. It’s a lot easier (and cheaper) to tell them to use epoxy or Crazy Glue than to deal with people who can’t figure out something as simple as using gentle heat on the tip of a field point.
in reply to: Adhesive for tip inserts/carbon #33146R2 wrote: What do you guys use for glue for the inserts on your carbon arrows. Can you use hot melt OK if you just heat the point and insert, not the shaft of course. I’m particular about my broadhead and nock alignment so permanent stuff is not really an option for me if I’m going to use shafts for hunting and target shooting. I need to be able to rotate my insert.
Ferr-L-Tite works just fine (with the possibly exclusion of HIT inserts). I’ve been using it on carbons for decades with absolutely no problems.
in reply to: Helle knife kit #29823Excellent tutorial, Chad. I especially liked the wood choices and how you used the Pony clamps to keep the pieces from slipping while the glue set up.
in reply to: ArkanQuiver #20534Beautiful work!
in reply to: Gap Method #20523Sam,
Thanks for the post. It just goes to show the individual nature of target panic (or rather, controlling it). I know folks who have used all kind of different methods to regain control over their shot execution—from Fred Asbel’s article to Jay Kidwell’s drills to bale and bridge work to clickers. As a matter of fact, there’s a gentleman on another site who had a great thread going about the use of what basically amounts to a tab clicker. It’s all good stuff and reinforces the point that what works for one person may not work for the next.
in reply to: Long draw –HELP #19727You are absolutely correct. Even if two people are the same height, their reaches can differ by a few inches. That will affect draw length, as will where an archer anchors. A lot of things come into play with respect to draw length, with height being only one small part (taller people tend to have longer reaches).
in reply to: Long draw –HELP #19667Just out of curiosity, how tall are you? I think the first thing you should do is determine your actual draw length with a bow and some arrows, as has been suggested. Until you know that the rest of this is guess work. If it turns out you do have a 33” draw length, then you have my condolences. I have a 32” draw length and am very thankful it’s not longer.
There used to be a time when you could easily get raw shafts over 32” (carbon and aluminum). I still have two dozen Easton Carbon Evolution 340s (same thing as Beman ICS Camo Hunters) that are 33” long. I’m hoarding them for now. I also have some 34” XX75 2419s too. A few years ago I found a supplier who had 36” raw fiberglass bowfishing shafts. I bought two dozen. I can’t remember the last time I saw raw carbon shafts over 32”. I’m not sure how long aluminums are anymore.
With a 32” draw length, I’m pretty much a no-go for wood arrows that require a broadhead. I still use wood shafts almost exclusively for small game since I can pull the tip into the riser. If Stu Miller’s calculator is correct, I’d need wood shafts around 100# in spine and have to foot them at least an inch to make them my main hunting arrows. Even if I had the desire to make footed arrows again, trying to find raw shafts that stiff and still weight matched is almost impossible. And even if I found some, they’d be so heavy they’d lob like slow pitched softball. If you really have a 33” draw length and want to shoot wood arrows, it’s not impossible, but get ready to pay a lot of money and/or put in a ton of work to build them.
Hopefully you’ll find out your draw length is 32” or less. That would open up a world of options for you. Once you go past 32” of draw length, things start getting a lot more difficult to find, options become more scarce, and price tags tend to go way up.
in reply to: Gap Method #19439There are basically two ways to shorten your point-on distance, raise your anchor or slow down your bow. If you have a short draw length, longer arrows can help somewhat as well.
in reply to: Where Would You Live? #17777My wife and I have said for years how much we’d love to live in southern Wisconsin. As of last year we became landowners about an hour north of Madison. When we get to retirement age, we plan to move there permanently.
in reply to: Tips for Scouting New Land #17774There’s a lot of great advice above, but there’s one major point to consider as well: what do the surrounding properties look like? If you don’t have permission to walk the neighbor’s land (and I suspect most people don’t) look at satellite photos on Google Earth and Google Maps. Driving around and scouting with binoculars from the road this time of year will help you get a feel for other habitat in your area. Unless you’re hunting a very large tract of land, your hunting property will not make up the sum of any deer’s home range. Knowing what is happening around you (agricultural fields, ponds, creeks, bedding thickets, etc.) will help you understand what’s happening on your property.
in reply to: Looking for a good broad head #12729newbreedarcher wrote: And what is a good choice for an affordable one? Thanks a lot:D
With that in mind, I’d probably go with Grizzlys. Last I saw they were around $33 for six, have been around for decades, and enjoy an excellent reputation.
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