[William Warren]

in reply to: 1955 #48102

I had not even been thought of yet. My little fiberglass Shakespeare bow was still a few years away.
My uncle taught me to string my bow like the figure shown with the tip over the ankle and the handle under the opposite leg. Thanks George!

[William Warren]

in reply to: Selfmade bow quivers? #47015

Holten101 wrote: Ok…think its done now. Was very easy to make, and im happy with the end result:-)

Very nice work Holten. I bet it is quieter than mine.

Duncan

[William Warren]

in reply to: cutting wood arrows #47008

TBMADMIN wrote: Here is a Tip of the Week we ran a while back if you need a saw to cut arrows to length.

Benchtop Cut-off Saw

And the low price is very attractive. Might have to retire the dowel saw!

[William Warren]

in reply to: Arrow Wood Characteristics #45808

SteveMcD wrote: Thanks, Duncan I’ll have to remember that one!

The best part is, it’s free! I’ve been using the same hulls for years kept in a tin can. Just add water when needed. The strongest color will come from the freshest hulls.

[William Warren]

in reply to: Selfmade bow quivers? #45440

Holten,
That is very cool. I see a pad between the dowel and the limbs, what is that? And what do you use for your shaft grippers? Can’t wait to see it with finish!
Duncan

[William Warren]

in reply to: Arrow Wood Characteristics #45432

Thanks Steve,

For those hard to stain woods I have had success using the crushed outer hull of the walnut mixed with water. It yeilds a rich brown color and can be diluted to obtain lighter shades. This has worked for me with hickory and ash.

Duncan

[William Warren]

in reply to: cutting wood arrows #45415

Recurve man 91 wrote: hey everyone i was thinking about going to wood arrows, but i was wondering how do you cut them? i mean do i need to get them done from a store or can i just cut them with a saw and taper them? thanks for any help

Recurve man,
I use a dowel cutter saw. It cuts only on the pull stroke and I roll the shaft as Dave said. I taper mine with a taper tool. They work fine as long as the blades are sharp. All I know is the shorter you cut them the stiffer the spine so you might want to start longer than your usual draw length. You can always cut some off but you can’t put it back on so easily.
Duncan

[William Warren]

in reply to: Bow Tuning #44267

Hiram wrote: Hey Duncan, I know you are a good hand with a lot of knowledge! Best thing I have found is to provide a small pivit point above the grip. A matchstick or a dab of JB weld putty will suffice. I like to have that little extra clearance from the shelf surface to give me a little more clearance.

Hey Hiram,
That is an excellent idea. Now that you mention it, I noticed my JD Berry bow has a built up “knot” on the shelf under the sealskin rest. I was curious about that. Now it makes sense. You gotta remember I have been accustomed to shooting off of raised rests. This old dog can always learn a new trick! That’s what is so great about this site. no matter how much you know theres so much more to learn. Many on here call it a journey and so it is.

[William Warren]

in reply to: Facebook? #44212

William Duncan Warren

[William Warren]

in reply to: Ode to a Mountain Trail #44208

Outstanding! I felt like I was there too! Reminds me of a wagon trail I once found along a ridge. As I walked along I noticed some stones that were arranged together over in the woods. They were of the native stone and upon closer inspection it became clear they were grave stones some having barely legible names and dates inscribed by hand. 17-something was the year. A gripping testament to frontier reality. What would it have been like to try and eake out a living in that land without convenience? Thanks, George! Well done!

Duncan

[William Warren]

in reply to: For those of you that hunt with wood arrows #44197

Looking forward to the build along Desertdude!

I am currently working on 1/2 doz POC with 3rivers swift fletching. Thinking about cresting them too.

All this talk about the Douglas Fir has me wanting to try some of that.

Duncan

[William Warren]

in reply to: Bow Tuning #43643

Cody wrote: Duncan
I shoot about 1/2 inch above center. When I got mine it was pretty loud but I measured my brace height and it was around 6 1/2. Moved it up to around 8 and it quieten it down A LOT. Thats just what works for me

Thanks Cody and Hiram,
If it will ever stop raining I’m going to tinker some with it. Thanks for the brace height info too. Was not sure what it should be.
Hiram, I doubt if I’m better shot than you! On the bright side, at least I’m not destroying my good cedar arrows on a regular basis. No worries there 8)

[William Warren]

in reply to: What hunters think of ATVs, poll #43518

Amen to that Hiram, we don’t need more laws, we need more law enforcement where it is deserved.

Duncan

[William Warren]

in reply to: Full length taper? #41948

Montana,
I think you would need to bring your square stock down to a round shaft of say 11/32 before beginning a taper. I’ve used a small Stanley plane to make round shafts out of square 3/8 stock. It takes patience though. You basically wind up with a hex shaped shaft. Then carefully remove a few more edges until it is almost round then finish with sand paper until you have the size you want. I made a guage from a piece of scrap iron. When your shaft is very close you might be able to take a drill and run your shaft through the guage then finish the sanding. I have done this with ash but not the wood you mentioned.

I’m no expert on tapered shafts but I think the taper would take up no more than half the length of the shaft cut to your draw length. I would start with say an 11/32 and go down to 5/16″ on an uncut shaft. The plane I mentioned is a really small mini plane by Stanley and should be available in any hardware store and probably at Walmart. The blade can be sharpened if necessary. To make the taper, I would start at the end and take off very small amounts of material turning the shaft in the same manner as when making the shafts from square stock. That is rotating it 360 degrees each stroke until you reach the desired diameter. I would suggest practicing on a spare shaft. As you take off material your stroke will become longer until it reaches the desired length of taper. Probably should create your taper before cutting the shaft to length.

I think there is an article on this in a past TBM issue??
Duncan

[William Warren]

in reply to: back quiver pattern #41304

nybubba,

Here are some details on the quiver I made. If you need the actual pattern just PM me with your address and I’ll drop one in the mail to you.

The round end cap, I used a tomato paste can to trace the circle. The shoulder strap is 1″ wide and I made it adjustable.

I sewed the end cap on first using enough thong to keep going along the bottom side. Next I sewed up the top side. I continued the stitch around the top, that’s optional, just punch more holes if you want it. I used a hole puncher but I have also used an awl with success. Then attach the shoulder strap left or right which ever you need. I put a 1″ piece of high density foam into the bottom of the quiver to protect the end cap.
Duncan

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