[Snakeeater]

in reply to: Don Thomas Deer carry method? #10232

It was actually Mike Mitten wearing a really bushy beard! 😀

[Snakeeater]

in reply to: Dying Feathers #10205

Dennis,

Does the color get lighter as the feathers dry?

Larry

[Snakeeater]

in reply to: Boots For The Bold #51703

Putting the waxed up boots in a warm oven with the door ajar will help melt the wax and get it to be absorbed by the leather of the boot. I think the Snoseal instructions say to leave it in for 30 minutes.

[Snakeeater]

in reply to: question for a book #36314

I would like to read it and will be glad to review/read it for you.

[Snakeeater]

in reply to: How to remove old feather fletching #11398

A sharp blade, laid flat along the shaft; use it to strip off the feather using a few passes.

[Snakeeater]

in reply to: New Archer – Where to start? #11395

Any of the bows you mentioned would be a decent starter bow for you, especially if you start out with a lower weigth like the 30# mentioned. That will let you develop good shooting form, which is essential for accurate shooting, without developing bad habits from using too much draw weight.

As you learn to shoot, try as many other bows as you can, check out traditional shoots and rendezvouses in your area, and over time you will see what you like and don’t like in a bow, as will your wife and daughter. Once you know what you want you can start to think about putting some more money into something you can shoot for years and years.

[Snakeeater]

in reply to: Feet? #49439

I have found that it helps to practice on uneven ground so that you can figure out what works best for you. Personally, I bend both knees a bit so that I can keep my shoulders level and in-line with the target. That way I don’t need to worry about keeping either leg locked out as you had asked.

[Snakeeater]

in reply to: Is it right, wrong, or the lesser of two evils? #35719

You need to separate the concept of killing an animal and the concept of hunting. There are many ways and reasons for killing an animal, hunting is just one of them and the one you identify with. If you want to be involved in the kill you can take a knife/hammer/pistol or whatever and slaughter it in the conventional manner, or you could use your bow. Just don’t think you need to hold yourself to the concept of fair chase because this isn’t a chase/hunt’ even though both result in a dead animal and meat on the table.

[Snakeeater]

in reply to: Poundage/Stacking Relationship #21159

Patrick,

The point at which stacking (the rapid increase in draw weight) begins is based on the design of the bow. So, a 50# bow will start to stack at the same point in the draw of a 65# bow of the same design. It’s all about how the limbs work.

Now, the heavier bow will feel like it is stacking more but that is because you started out with more weight; if every extra inch adds 5% more than the previous inch then the amount of increase will be more per inch on a 65# bow than on a 50# bow.

So, the limb length does not necessarily affect when a bow will start to stack.

Snakeeater

[Snakeeater]

in reply to: color of honey #54153

amosss,

Just as the type of pollen affects the color, it also affects the taste.

[Snakeeater]

in reply to: flu flu fletch #48182

To answer the original question, you can keep the ends of the spiraled fletch down by using thread or mono line wrapped around the ends, or you can put a drop of glue there just like any feather fletch. If you sand off most of the pithy part of the base you will find that the ends are less prone to come up.

As for not liking flu flu’s because they cut down on speed and therefore may cut down on hits, I have found a compromise that works well for me. The spiral wrapping style serves as an air brake and works really well to slow down the arrow. Because of this I have found that you can trim the full length feather down by half, or even more if you want, which makes the arrow fly better and doesn’t slow it down as much in the first 20-30 yards. All arrows start to loose energy faster past this distance and the spiral fletch will speed the lose of energy causing the arrow to basically drop out of the sky past that distance. You can affect how far your arrow goes before it starts to slow down by trimming the spiral fletch closer and closer to the shaft until you get what you want.

This fine tuning is important because you still want to have sufficient energy when the arrow hits its target to do the job. So, if you are shooting at a bird or squirrel at 20 yards you want your arrow to slow down/fall from the sky at around 30 or 40 yards.

Hope this helps.

Snakeeater

[Snakeeater]

in reply to: Snakeskin backing #24444

Ask Bob Morrison, he puts snakeskin on the bows that he builds.

[Snakeeater]

in reply to: bow position while waiting #15493

Make it out of plastic or machined steel with holes that you could put arrow shafts into, then Cabela’s would go for it!

Seriously though, a couple of old broken aluminum or wooden shafts would work fine with the existing block.

Great idea. I thought that was what you were talking about from your description.

[Snakeeater]

in reply to: Whistling Broadheads #15482

Any head with vents/slots cut in it has the potential to whistle as it goes through the air. If yours whistle, do something to reduce the sharp angle made by the vent. Things like putting tape over the vent, rubbing some chapstick or vaseline on the edge of the vent, or roughing it up with a file or stone are all tricks that have solved the problem.

[Snakeeater]

in reply to: Bear T/D Limbs,Help #11911

The pictures that Rich posted are of the riser RO makes that will also fit the takedown limbs.

[Author]

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