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in reply to: Can you consistently hit a paper plate? #136322
I take a simpler approach.
Paper plate on the bales. One arrow at 5 yards. Hit the plate …… go to 10 yards. Hit the plate……. go to 15. Keep moving back 5 yards at a time until I miss one. Farthest I’ve ever gotten back was the 70 yard line. Usually miss one before that though.
Makes a good exercise to alternate with form drills.
When I was shooting wood I used to buy the shafts in lots of 100. Would go thru them and straighten, weigh and group them #1, #2 or #3. The #1s were the good stuff. The #3s…….. lets just say that just because the ground squirrel was sitting on a rock didn’t mean that he was safe.
When I used .38 casings for blunts, I used to put a couple of .22 lead pellets on the vice and flatten them with a hammer, then drop them into the case with a spot of glue to bring the weight up the same as field points. They shot surprisingly accurate for throw-aways.
#6 lead shot & a spot of glue works well, also.
in reply to: Questions About Arrows #136037Wow !!!!
It sounds like you’re on the right track starting out.
As far as arrows for a newcomer; I would recommend that you contact Three Rivers Archery for information on the goodies you’ll need. There are a number of other reputable suppliers but I’ve had good luck with 3 Rivers. Making your own arrows is rewarding but can be addictive. How carried away do you want to get ??
in reply to: Straight Fletch Article #135993Shooting in the wind;
Helical and straight fletch still grouping together, such as I can group in the wind.
Have noticed that when I find a soft spot in the bale that the straight fletch seems to be less ‘traumatized’ by pulling it out the back.
in reply to: Straight Fletch Article #135983I believe that the Super Diablo failed for a combination of three reasons.
(1) The bow was aprox. 50 years old. A lot of years and a lot of arrows. (2) The bow was an EBay purchase from ‘back East’ where the humidity tends to be higher than here in Arizona with low humidity and high temps. (3) And mostly, about three months before it failed I had waxed the entire bow with Lemon Pledge. It looked great but when I strung it with bow-stringer. it slipped out of my hand and hit the concrete floor rather hard. Seemed to be ok afterwards but I still suspect that mishap was a factor.
The failure notwithstanding I still believe that the Super Diablo is one of the classics. I have two others in zebra wood and a matching longbow.
in reply to: Numb fingers #135982I’ve got an old pamphlet by Dick Young ‘The Best of Let’s Raise Our Score’.
He mentions using a thin tab, another thin tab with the first finger cut off and a glove with just the first finger. Supposed to be the best of both worlds. good protection & good control.
Might be worth a try just to see if it works for you.
in reply to: Straight Fletch Article #135964Gasp !!!! …………………. Don’t collect old bows ?????
I have a few. Some of them can hold their own with some of the new stuff. Had a rosewood / black glass Super Diablo that recently failed. Stunningly beautiful bow. Like to broke my heart when it underwent explosive disassembly. That was the first bow that I’ve ever had that was strickly my tournament bow. Always competed with my regular hunting bows before. The Pearson only lacks some camo & hunting arrows in the bow quiver to be a hunting bow but it’s such a neat package I’m leaving it high gloss. It’s the bow I’m taking to the Calif. State Traditional shoot next month.
Question; Have there been any studies done regarding tissue penetration comparing straight fletch / slow spin with helical / faster spin that would stop suddenly as penetration begins ??? Or am I thinking too much ???
in reply to: Straight Fletch Article #135945Okey… Dokey.
Had a couple of arrows in the rack in need of a re-fletch so I drug out a couple of older Bitzenberger jigs and set them up to straight fletch. 5 1/4″ by 5/8″ shield cut. Arrows are 2213s 29″ w/125 grn points & 40 grn inserts. FOC is just over 12%. End cap white & crested. Pretty much ‘old school’ all the way.
After a bit of warm-up I went to my point on at 55 yards shooting ends of 5……. 2 straight and 3 helical. To my surprise, they grouped together. I had expected them to either group higher due to less drag or lower due to not flying cleanly & more drag. They flew fine at all distances from 10 to 65 yards and produced 5 shot groups unless I dropped my bow-arm & peeked to admire my ‘fine’ shot.
Noise was about the same with either but then large shield cut fletch isn’t know to be the quietest anyway.
One test does not a semester make, and I still want to see what broadheads do in the wind, but so far it looks pretty good.
in reply to: Straight Fletch Article #135928It’s going to be at the Verdugo Archers Range in Sunland Calif. Kinda the Northern end of Los Angles.
You mentioned in another post that you collect Ben Pearson bows. I’m currently shooting a Sovereign Mecury Hunter with a matching Ben Pearson bow quiver filled with hardwood footed cedars that have 1957 barbed Pearson broadheads mounted. It’s a pretty package, if I may be allowed to gloat a bit. Shoots 2213s pretty good, too.
in reply to: Double tap #135913Other than my lower back not liking this high arc part, this has posibilities.
Raymond mentioned 50 yards and I thought ‘why not flu-flus ???’ Tried a few at 50 and ended up shooting a flu-flu up and a regular arrow normally. Still fine tuning the process but it should be priceless when I tell one of my compound buddies “Here, try this.”
in reply to: Straight Fletch Article #135908It may be a month or so before I get into it.
Right now, I’m getting ready for the Calif. State Trad Championship and don’t want to confuse my tiny little brain any more than it already is.
Pointy end of the arrow goes toward the target. Need to remember that.
in reply to: Switching to tab effecting arrow flight? #135879Greetings !!!
You may want to check if the new tab has affected your anchor point.
Doesn’t take much & a slight move of your ‘rear sight’ is going to affect where your groups impact.
in reply to: Looking for advice on switching to trad #135789Ah yes, the reading !!
Traditional archery has a long and rich history that is well worth exploring. Current books, out of print books and archery magazines from the mid-60s to the early 70s are all great reading. We’ve improved the materials that we build our equipment out of but the basic concepts are still valid.
One more thing;
Once you get past the ‘learner bow’ stage, there are a lot of options for your next bow. I would suggest keeping an eye out for a used bow, not more than a 10 pound increase in weight, that calls out to you. You’ll know it when you see it.
in reply to: Looking for advice on switching to trad #135786Greetings and congrats on starting the new year out by going single string !!!!
Suggestions;
(1) If at all possible, go to a pro shop that speaks ‘traditional’ and get outfitted properly as to equipment and shooting instruction. If you need to travel a bit to do this, it’s time & coin well spent.
(2) Choose a low cost ‘learner’ bow to develop form and back muscles.
(3) Drop down in poundage to little more than half of your compound’s peak weight during the learning curve.
(4) If possible, join a club that has a few traditional shooters.
(5) Even on your bad days, don’t forget to have fun.
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