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in reply to: 7 year spike #42131
CLAY
Great story ❗ Great PIctures ❗ Great Trophy ❗
Once in a while every thing works out but when it does not the true hunter does not give up but keeps hunting.
It would be nice though if it did not take seven years for those “great ” moments. :lol::lol::lol: Been there done that:D
CLAY CONGRATULATIONS
[quote=”wojo14
Vintage, I just got an order from you! I should get it on Monday. But I did not order the feathers. You only have bright green? Any other colors?
wojo14 As this is a new product I am moving slowly with it trying to keep inventory at a minimum.
I do plan to add colors if demand builds.
White feathers will be available within a few weeks. Selling feathers is like selling shoes you can have a big inventory but never the right size: or in this case color.:D
if you or others have a specific color in mind post it and If there is enough demand I will add it to the inventory
THANKS FOR THE INTEREST IN A & A FEATHERS:!:
in reply to: Elkheart radio interview #40898MIKE THANKS FOR POSTING THE LINK
DAVE PETERSEN Have been away from the inter-net for several days and just had a opportunity to listen to the radio interview.
Like mentioned above “you do have a radio voice” Maybe you should consider doing or redoing some of your books in audio 💡 Like you allude to in the interview you probably make lot of money at it.:lol:
It was a great interview….direct and to the point. You do have a way with words..verbally and in print.While the topics were not knew to those of us that follow your writings to hear them spoken and in a less formal way was enjoyable and enlightening.
I hope the interview was heard by a large audience.
DAVE When I said you had a way with words I might add I have heard several of your cuss words.Very descriptive!:D:D
MIKE thanks for the kind words.:D We try !
Feathers
I personally was slow to make the move to A & A feathers. I could come up with all the excuses and more not to use them. Just about like the skeptics of FOC or heavy arrows.
Similar to discovering that FOC worked I also discovered A & A feathers work.:idea::oops:
Actually FOC and A & A go together. Like you I was able to add a full one percent FOC to my arrow by removing excess weight from the rear. I hope more experiment with the A & A fletching. They fly great !
in reply to: bow quivers and tuffheads #37678Skinner…The Kanati Quiver has a deep hood.they make their quiver in several styles . I offer one on my website but they offer others direct off of their web site.
Great Northern is offering a deep hood for their quivers. They were also offering to replace the hood on existing GN quivers at a reasonable price. Contacting them would shed more light on this replacement service.
I am sure their are more manufactures that offer the deep hood that i am not aware of.
in reply to: Practicing the "Cold Shot" #28880PRACTICING THE COLD SHOT….GREAT ADVICE A practice that I have been negligent in doing………Now that I got started practicing just shooting one arrow cold I have also started shooting from different positions using the cold technique.
Thanks for jogging my memory :idea::oops:
in reply to: Thought I would Share….My first Longbow Elk #28870NATE
CONGRATULATIONS Beautiful trophy .Great picture.
What is the rest of the story ?? i am sure it was a breeze getting him out of the bush. LOL 😀
cpbiv wrote: Never used gateways. All they carry around here is right wing, and I shoot left wing.
4 fletch 3.5″x.75″ A&A wild Tennessee turkey.
SORRY CPBLV… ACCORDING TO DR. ED ASHBY THE A&A DESIGNATION CAN NOT BE USED ON ORDINARY TURKEY FEATHERS. ONLY” WILD TURKEY 101″ CAN CARRY THAT DESIGNATION I am sure he will verify that…….LOL:D:D
in reply to: Filled A Tag! #20070paleoman
I am sure at one time or another we all feel like doing that.
That is funny :D:D:D
in reply to: Meatheads and carbon arrow sleeves #55439Steve Graf wrote: I had a problem with getting a sleeved arrow into the back of the meathead. The broadhead is designed to come over the end of the shaft and protect it, which is great. But the problem is that the inserts go way down into the COURISITYbroadhead. When you tighten the shaft onto the insert, you need to make sure it bottoms out on the insert, and not the inner wall of the broadhead. Hopefully that makes sense…
I ended up having to ditch the aluminum sleeves to insure contact between the insert and the arrow.
STEVE I GOT THINKING ABOUT THE PROBLEM YOU WERE HAVING WITH THE FOOTING NOT GOING INTO THE TAPER OF THE BROADHEAD. THE INSIDE DIAMETER OF THE FERRULE IS 23/64” ….JUST OUT OF
CURIOSITY WHAT OD ARROW AND AL.FOOTINGS WERE YOU USING ??
in reply to: kme sharpener and tuffheads #55419DAVID PETERSEN
SORRY DAVE YOU GOT BUSTED AGAIN 😀 THANKS FOR SHAREING THIS LETTER WITH EVERY ONE ……….YES I KNOW YOU THOUGHT YOU DESTROYED ALL THE COPIES LOL 😆
in reply to: kme sharpener and tuffheads #55416skinner biscuit wrote: That’s pretty much what I just did and have it shaving arm hairs now.I think I got it!:D
GREAT 😀
in reply to: kme sharpener and tuffheads #55397skinner biscuit wrote: So I have the kme sharpener.Just got the broadhead jaws, so I was monkeying around in the garage trying to sharpen a tuffhead broadhead.I marked the edge with a black marker and started at the 25 degree Mark.I wasn’t hitting the edge so I started moving the rod up till I was all the way to the top at 30 degree and still only managed to dull the blade more.I’m sure I am being a idiot but for the life of me can’t figure out how the hell you guy’s use this contraption to sharpen your tuffheads!I thought this would be easy but I am getting frustrated at my feeble attempts.Any advise would be greatly appreciated. What rod angle do you use to get it close in the ballpark?
SKINNER IGNORE THE ANGLE SETTINGS ON THE KME.
Secure the broadhead in the clamp Lay the stone flat on the bevel which is 25 degrees (guaranteed) ignoring the angle reading on the sharpener..Check for light under the stone so you know it is flat secure the sharpening arm regardless of reading the should set the sharpener for the correct bevel. Ron Swartz expelling why in this letter below.
In a recent discussion on proper sharpening angles and use of the KME system, one of our most experienced friends questioned …
“Just now I touched up my 6 Tuffheads for the hunt, using my KME knife sharpener. According to the scale on the sharpener it was set at 25 degrees. But in order to get the stone to lie precisely parallel to the bevel on the heads I had to raise it up to one mark below 30 degrees – 28 or 29 I reckon. So is the scale off on the jig, or the bevel in fact greater than 25 degrees, or something else I’m missing here? Just curious. In any event those heads are sharp and one has already drawn blood, my own.”
A quick response from Rom Schwartz at KME explins the details…
“Figured I’d share this drawing to help explain why Dave needs to set the shapener to 29 degrees in order to match a 25 degree bevel.
The angle scales on all clamp-on sharpening systems are relative, not absolute. This is because there are multiple factors that influence the actual sharpening angle.
We can adjust the angle by raising/lowering the bearing guide but the distance the blade extends out in front of the clamp has just as great an influence on the angle too.
This is just basic geometry and there’s no escaping it.
The best way to match an existing bevel is to color the bevel with a permanent marker, eyeball the angle as best as we can, then take just a few strokes with a dry stone to see where the ink is being removed. If the ink is being taken from the shoulder of the bevel but not from the cutting edge, that means the angle is set too low. If we’re removing ink from the cutting edge but not from the shoulder, that means the angle is set too high. Micro adjust till the ink is being removed from the whole bevel and you have found the correct setting for that particular knife or BHD. Note: it’s preferable to have the angle set a bit too high than it is to have it set a bit too low. This way we’re certain that the stone is contacting the actual cutting edge.
Dave when sharpening Grizzly El Grandes with the knife sharpener, I find that I need to set the sharpener at 27 degrees even though I know that the factory bevel is ground at 25 degrees. The angle scale may indicate that I’m sharpening the Grizz at 27 degrees but in fact it’s actually sharpening at the same 25 as my original “factory” grind.
Sorry for the poor quality of the sketch but I think you’ll see what I’m talking about. Thanks, Ron
Ron Swartz
KME Sharpeners
SORRY I COULD NOT GET THE DRAWING TO POST HOPE THE EXPLANATION IS ENOUGH
I am sure this will cure the problem but if not contact me and I will get Ron to walk you through it.
Joe
in reply to: Broadheads #53728J.Wesbrock wrote: [quote=vintage archer]JASON I THOUGHT YOUR CHOICE OF BROADHEAD WAS AN ACE TWO BLADE. YOU MUST HAVE A RATIONAL FOR CHOOSING THE TWO BLADE.
For the past 10 years my broadhead of choice has been a 125-grain Ace Standard. They will be on my arrows this season as well. My reasons for using them are quite simple. They mount straight, take and keep a fantastic edge, fly true, are incredibly tough, and (this is what puts it over the edge) are made by two of the absolutely finest folks in the traditional bowhunting industry.
Funny enough, for the first few years I shot Ace heads I frequently asked Bob Mayo when he was going to come out with a 4-blade head. I eventually stopped asking. I don’t think he has any plans to add one to his lineup, but if he ever did I’d probably use it.
I’m a big proponent of not fixing things that aren’t broken, and my hunting arrows fit that category. But I also know that just because something is right for me doesn’t mean it’s right for everyone. The world would be such a boring place if we all did the same things the same way with the same equipment.
JASON I agree with you about Jan and Bob Mayo. They are not only great people but personal friends of mine. Bob does a lot of machine work for me. We are in regular contact.He has a wealth of knowledge and always willing to help.:D:D:D
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