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in reply to: Older Bow ID help #50726

So here a couple of pictures showing the fit when put together. What do you guys that shoot Take-Downs think?

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in reply to: Older Bow ID help #48863

No old martin shooters out there? EH. 🙁

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in reply to: Armguards #48861

Oh ya,,nice one Mr. Peterson. My father had one with Liberty dimes. I have been thinking about puttin Indian-head pennys on mine. When I build it.

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in reply to: What broadheads do you like? #45105

ausjim wrote: [quote=Dr. Ed Ashby]Light game: Deadhead (still have a few).

In my search for good local broadheads I came across a guy that makes a range and one of them looks quite a bit like those old deadheads (less of an arch though). The tusker aztec (they’re cheap as chips too):

http://www.bowhuntingaustralia.com/broardheads_glue.html

I got a delivery of a screw on version recently. They’re a fat old head. The maker has also been working on a heavy, single bevel version of the concorde for me. We haven’t got there yet but he’s determined to do it!

Jim, thanks for the url, I checked out the Tusker site. Those Aztec’s look great, and we can get-em here in the U.S. as well. I am thinking these are my next purchase. 😀

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in reply to: Armguards #45074

Have several,,elastic band types, I hate them. they either slip down and bind at the wrist, or won’t go around all the layers. And the bands streched out. I been thinking about building my own. A long one. That wraps around all the way, with a flap like a envelope, and a draw string, you can tighten with one hand. Ya thats it. 😉

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in reply to: Built some arrows today #43914

Hey thanks, I will be building some for sure. Nice clean work, I also can’t live without my Dremel.

Ernest

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in reply to: Grain runout: Perhaps the most important aspect of a wooden arrow #43909

Thanks Ben,,,that sounds like an “Easy” button,

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in reply to: Arrows???? #42740

Cy,,,New to the forum, was just looking through the posts and came upon yours,

Do you shoot off the shelf? I was shooting that way and shooting left also. I went to a plunger button and that helped very little. Since I also like stiffer wood arrows I thought that would help, but in reading I find that the arrows should flex back after leaving the bow and fly straight. Then I found out I had been shooting with a left eye aiming, (i am right handed and shoot that way). I automaticly look over the arrow for a split second to gage distance,(with my right eye) then switch to left eye for windage. I always shoot with both eyes open. I found out about this problem by having a pardner watch me shoot while standing in front of me off to my left side. I wear glasses, and when I look over the arrow with my right eye, in the shooting postion, at full draw, my view is really busy, with the arrow, string, bow,and inside rim of my glasses cloging up the sight picture. I think the view from the left eye is so clean. It just switched by it self. Cause you want to see what your shooting at. and want to see the hit. I went back to the shelf shooting, and worked on my follow thru. I hit where I am looking, so it does not matter to me any more.

Ps. Shooting with tri-focals helped me out a bunch.

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in reply to: April/May 2013 TBM #42718

Thanks Robin,,Trying to get my niece to do this,,this will help her a lot. Ernest

ps didn’t mean to blame any one. can’t fathom the job it takes to put out T.D. Thanks to everyone who works on it.

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in reply to: Built some arrows today #42704

Hey G-monk, How did you do the nocks? Im going to try hardwood inserts on my next batch. Can you show us a close-up of the fletch/ nock wraps,,,they look great.

Thanks Ernest.

ps. like your Zen sigg. reminds me of the clasic “Circle of Iron”.

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in reply to: Grain runout: Perhaps the most important aspect of a wooden arrow #42695

So Ben. let me ask you a question, How do you determine which end to knock on raw hickory shafts? I have not built arrows on hickory before,,,but I have built ramrods out of hickory. The best are made from hickory splits, the arrows in the picture seem to be of the doweling type. Lots of stories about doweling breaking with a light amount of side pressure applied with straight force. Have thought about making arrows with split ramrod hickory as they come in several diam. They will cost a bunch though.

Thanks for sharing safety issue. Ernest

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in reply to: Older Bow ID help #42676

Thanks Troy, This bow does have the limb inserts and two ball-bearing alignment system. I didn’t think of the belly mount quiver, (never used one of those) So thanks for that insight. I am wondering if the gap between the riser and limbs are normal on the ball-bearing side of the mount?

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in reply to: April/May 2013 TBM #41684

G Fred’s article on straight hand shooting was great. But the editor used the same picture of High elbow on page 46,, as the picture for the straght line elbow shot on page 48. It is the same picture, can we see the correct picture one of these days ? Also liked the Red Wing Hunter’s story. 🙂

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in reply to: What broadheads do you like? #41668

Rothaar Snuffers,for deer Elk, Bear,,And M A-3’s for turkey and things like hava-julina. All glue on’s. When I was shooting Alum. arrows I used Muzzy’s 125’s an Barrie Rocky Mtns. Love three blades over two and four blades. Killed some deer with the old satelites. And found one of those in a bull elk’s hip. about 1997.

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in reply to: Warped Hickory #41643

How wet was the board when you bought it? You will be heating and bending it anyway,,just go slow,and use some greese to help it season and keep set. (animal or vegatable greese not axle 🙂 )

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