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in reply to: Cottontails! #38043
Pigs are game with open season. Tags and a license are needed for pigs. Depredation permits are available for pigs and turkey but it looks to me like the process to get one is a bit tough.
in reply to: Getting in shape #38039Traditional calisthenics, push-ups pull-ups sit ups and squat, yoga, and hiking for me.
in reply to: Cottontails! #37147preston is spot on.
Heres the quote from the regs.
CFGC 4186
Nothing in this code prohibits the owner or tenant of land,
or any person authorized in writing by such owner or tenant, from
taking cottontail or brush rabbits during any time of the year when
damage to crops or forage is being experienced on such land. Any
person other than the owner or tenant of such land shall have in
possession when transporting rabbits from such property written
authority from the owner or tenant of land where such rabbits were
taken. Rabbits taken under the provision of this code may not be
sold.
in reply to: Starting point #26948Cool, getting FOC over 20% is hard with boo.
in reply to: Starting point #23730On boo shafts
ausjims site looks like the same guy we get it from here, almost all commercially available; ebay, kustom king, etc, comes from the same place in China. They are marked TIGER and the the spine.
The cons I have with boo… Expensive if you buy in small batches, ebay shipping can be high, takes heat to straighten, wild gpi per spine group, sometimes tough to taper.
Pros…
Heavy. After sorting through 50 shafts with gpi varying 200gr I ended up with 8 at 650 gr. Top end of weight was 550, low end 350.
Stays straight. When you sight down a shaft there are little wiggles usually at the nodes, so they arent perfectly straight. With a little heating you can get them perfect but Im not sure its worth it. They are pretty darn straight to begin with. The only thing that warps them is lots of moisture. A good coat of tung oil seems to do the trick.
Natural taper. The business end on my shafts is generally fitted with a 11/32 field point (well, usually the TH field points but 11/32 fits), sometimes 5/16 and tapers down to 5/16 or less.
These shafts are burly. They can take a beating. I dont put a foreshaft on mine. Just taper and put the head on. For the nocks, simple wrapped self nock.
You can slide a bamboo shish kabob skewer inside them for reinforcement if you like.
The gossip around these shafts is that they dont need to be spined or that they have a wide spine tolerance. I find with the heavy head thats not quite the case. With my 225gr heads the 65-70 spines fly like soggy bacon and the 75-80 are just too stiff. 70 – 75 feels good.
I got mine from here, $10 shipping. Bottom of the page.
http://www.franksupply.com/bamboo/bamboo-poles.html#bambooarrowshafts
this is all referring to tonkin boo, which is chinese and heavy, generally dark. Yadake boo is Japanese, used in kyudo and generally much lighter and larger diameter.
in reply to: Starting point #23549For my 28.5″ draw, Im shooting 70-75lb bamboo shafts with the 225 tuffhead. My bow is 51# and just shy of center.
Generally this makes a 675gr – 700gr total arrow weight and 19% FOC. I weed out the heaviest ones and keep the 675gr +/- 10gr.
I found with the spruce and cedar shafts I break the shafts more often than the bamboo. Im trying out some doug fir now.
This is all on my targets, havent taken a meal yet with the heavy set up.
in reply to: Built some arrows today #42950Bingo! on the sig quote
Heres the pic
The nocks are cut with a dremel. I put 3 of the this abrasive discs on and cut just deep enough to get the throat around the string.
Then I take a round and flat needle file and bring it out to the right width for my string.
I clean up the nock with some folded up 200grit.
For the wrapping have some Brownell serving material that I use. I unwind/unbraid the serving to get a single ply. I use a dab of clear nail polish hardener to secure one end and then wrap tight. I seal it with some more polish hardener.
Superglue works fine but I find the polish to be easier to work with and waterproof.
I dont use inserts on heavy bamboo or cane. A good wrap is enough or you can set the nock just behind a node.
in reply to: Vacation's over! #38404I didnt know this was finished already! How is the Phelps’ family taking this?
in reply to: Spare a thought for these poor birds #38401Wow. I couldnt watch the whole thing. And I couldnt agree with you more.
in reply to: Warped Hickory #31194So its flexing toward the belly as if it is being drawn? If thats the case, your board is deflexed. All things equal, this will yield a smoother draw, though the speed will suffer a bit. Hickory tends to take a bit of set so I wouldnt be surprised to see that 2″ deflex turn into 3 – 5inches of set.
You can turn it around and then the deflex will be reflex, giving results on the opposite side of the spectrum. Have fun!
in reply to: Target Panic #31187I get it as well. I used to come to anchor and then release. 2 years ago I started adding an exhale before the release. Ive found that Ill start to exhale before coming to anchor but i wont release until Ive finished the exhale.
That extra time the exhale allows is usually enough to bring me to anchor.
Its been really helpful but I still get target panic, just not very often.
in reply to: Arrow Question #300652blade wrote: 5″ are 3.2 grs a piece. add a little glue and you may as well call it 10grs.
Yup. My grain scale shows the same weight for shield or parabolic cut.
in reply to: Built some arrows today #25151Thanks guys! 1 jack down, 2 misses. I’m tryin to get in under 20 yards with these bunnies but no luck!
This whole trad hunting thing is tooooo fun!
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