[Ed Ashby]

in reply to: Congratulations Dave Petersen! #33711

It’s always nice to see deserving folks recognized for all the hard work they do but it is especially nice to see Dave recognized for his many contributions to us, the wildlife and the wild places we all love so much.

Ed

[Ed Ashby]

in reply to: I might go crazy trying to figure this out #33702

Troy Breeding wrote: Pull the shelf pad and use a wooden match stick to elevate the shaft off the shelf.

Troy has the answer, spot on!

Ed

[Ed Ashby]

in reply to: Thanks to BandAid Joe! #21580

I’ve seen some of the smaller size QuikClot sponges in drugstores but I just order mine on-line. Lots of places sell them, including Amazon. The larger ones; the ones for gunshot size wounds; are a bit harder to locate. I got mine from a site that sells survival supplies for aircraft pilots. Some police supply and industrial safety supply sources also sell them to the public.

The QuikClot sponges come in sealed foil packets and are good for many years of storage. The smaller sizes are not very expensive, about $13.00. The combat (gunshot) size is around $50.00. They stop both arterial and venous bleeding in seconds. Having had the opportunity to use them twice on folks who suffered severe cuts (one an axe wound to the calf) I can attest that they work really well. The silver packet model (as well as combat size) are bacteriostatic, and are what you want if it might be 24 hours or more before you can reach medical help.

Ed

[Ed Ashby]

in reply to: I'm going to give a bow away (winner on pg3) #20803

You are a good man, Troy. No, thank you, I have more than enough bows but I’m sure you’re going to make someone a very happy hunter. 😀

Ed

[Ed Ashby]

in reply to: Thanks to BandAid Joe! #20800

All jokes aside, for years I’ve carried QuikClot sponges. I have them is various sizes. That’s in case the laceration (from whatever) is larger than a Band-Aid will accommodate. I even have a couple in the ‘gunshot wound’ size, which the military uses. They are small and light weight and are something every bowhunter really should be carrying – just in case. I even keep a few in the vehicle too. They can truly be a life saver.

Ed

[Ed Ashby]

in reply to: Giving it a try #19742

FUBAR wrote: Heaviest tips were 150g. I was surprised that the archery shop not only didn’t carry them, but didn’t think anyone even made heads that heavy:shock:

That says a lot about the ‘expertise’ of the folks working at those shops – and I’m not surprised at all.

Ed

[Ed Ashby]

in reply to: light arrow Extreme FOC #19301

toehead wrote: The best part is they are breshafting perfect and they are less then $60/dozen shipped.

Sounds like you are all set. Looking forward to that “field test” report!

Ed

[Ed Ashby]

in reply to: Re-using Fletching #15116

When I was young every single penny counted. You bet I recycled the fletching from broken arrows, and everything else I could salvage too. I even recycled the broken (wood, back then) shafts for tomato stakes, dowel pins and anything else I could think of to use them for. I even made ‘squeaker’ type varmint calls from the broken shafts and rubber bands – and that type of varmint call is still my favorite, close range varmint calls.

Ed

[Ed Ashby]

in reply to: My new bow for this year (added chrono numbers) #13077

Beautiful job. I’m generally not a big fan of take down bows but I like the looks of the system you used.

Ed

[Ed Ashby]

in reply to: Tuning struggles #12605

I would start with your adjustable shelf out about as far as you can while still having a reasonable shelf for the arrow to rest on. That way if you cut the shaft a bit too short and it is too stiff you can just move the shelf in a tad to compensate.

Do make those cuts in very small increments. Once the spine gets close a very small change in length makes a sizable change in stiffness.

I find that I like to do the final tuning at longer ranges (I use 40 meters, about 44 yards). It just allows for more refinement of the tuning.

Best inexpensive large target is probably still a few bales of hay, just doesn’t stand up to the weather all that well.

Be sure to give us all feedback as you try the suggestions. It makes a good learning process for all.

Ed

[Ed Ashby]

in reply to: light arrow Extreme FOC #10871

First, at what distance are you shooting those bare shaft tuning shots? If it’s relatively close try moving back and see what it shows. Another thing you have need to watch for (especially with the full length shafts) is getting a false strong spine reaction, resulting from the arrow’s rear striking the riser.

I don’t pay any attention to nock kick during bare shaft tuning on my EFOC/UEFOC arrows but once your arrow is tuned, and assuming that you’re shooting into a target that is uniform (like a REALTIVELY NEW foam target), you won’t have any left-right nock kick.

Ed

[Ed Ashby]

in reply to: FOC and lightweight bows #10632

RedTape wrote: … I’m a little concerned about getting such a light bow to shoot a heavy arrow with high FOC. Has anyone experimented with a 40# bow?

You can find a fair amount of information on shots with a 40# bow in the 2008 Uodate, Parts 1 and 2. Here’s the links:

https://www.tradbow.com/members/294.cfm

https://www.tradbow.com/members/309.cfm

Ed

[Ed Ashby]

in reply to: Giving it a try #10401

FUBAR wrote: How do you keep the inserts in without making it impossible to remove when cutting down arrows? 2) How do you cut these carbons?

For your bare shaft tuning attach your inserts permanently and then make your cuts from the shaft’s rear. No need to remove the inserts. That works for all except the tapered carbon shafts. On the tapered carbon shafts you do have to remove the insert and make the adjustment cuts from the shaft’s front. On the tapered shafts I use regular ferrule cement while tuning. To remove them I gently heat the point – not the insert itself – while applying pulling pressure until the point and insert pull free as a single unit. Go with care, as it is possible to overheat the carbon shaft, ruining it.

You need an abrasive cutting wheel and a high speed cutter to cut the shafts cleanly. A cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool will work. A simple guide can be made by drilling a hole through a flat, metal plate, of the correct size for the shaft to pass through. Make the hole close to the edge of the metal so that you can reach it with the Dremel’s small-diameter cut-off wheel. I found some 2 1/2″ diameter cut off wheels that fit a Dremel at Ace Hardware. They make the job simple. That method works nearly as well as my regular arrow cutoff machine.

Ed

[Ed Ashby]

in reply to: light arrow Extreme FOC #10384

Duston, the number one requirement is arrow integrity. Lose the aluminum inserts and adaptors! Achieving perfect arrow flight is next most important. The degree of FOC comes in next but, should a heavy bone be hit the degree of FOC has no influence on the heavy bone threshold. Especially since you’re looking for hog arrows, where the aiming spot for the vitals (from broadside) is extremely close to the shoulder/leg bones I’d place more emphasis on keeping a minimum of 650 grains, to stay above the heavy bone threshold, then I’d go for the most FOC I could get.

Only if you find the finished arrow does not give a flat enough trajectory for YOUR personal hunting would I be concerned about the finished arrow weight. In bowhunting, there’s no such thing as overkill. When all else is equal, more arrow weight always means more arrow force, and that means more tissue penetration. Remember that, unlike when shooting a target, getting your hunting arrow to the target is only the first stage. How your arrow performs after impact is more important than how it performed before impact. It does no good to make a hit if your hunting arrow fails in its terminal performance.

The 16 grains per pound of draw weight Troy mentioned is based on the weight of the arrow where the rate of gain in arrow force derived from the bow begins to diminish; for the more efficient, modern longbows and recurves. In other words, that’s the “most efficient” arrow weight. Interestingly, when we look for the most efficient grains of arrow per pound of draw weight for self-wood bows it turns out to be at 10 GPI, and I think that’s where the old “10 grains per pound of draw weight” rule of thumb originally comes from; a ‘rule of thumb’ that I think is not valid for our newer, high performance bows.

Yes, I would recommend losing the wrap. That will increase your FOC, which is more important than any benefit derived from a wrap.

Here’s a link to a thread that should bring you up to speed on turbulators. https://www.tradbow.com/members/cfmbb/messages.cfm?threadid=C8EA4FBD-1422-1DE9-ED1A1C909376B7B6

Ed

[Ed Ashby]

in reply to: Heavy FOC arrow question #8375

Dave, “There’s no such thing as ‘overkill’ in bowhunting”. When it comes to arrow mass (weight) the more the better, so long as it shoots flat enough meets YOUR hunting needs.

Arrow mass wise, your setup sounds like it works for you. If I were to suggest any change, should you be looking at new arrows in the future, it would be to try a lighter GPI shaft and then move more of the weight into the point, giving you even more EFOC.

Ed

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