Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
in reply to: screw on tuffheads #15662
Herr Brennan — Joe is real close to releasing a 300-grain glue-on Tuffhead, but hasn’t mentioned anything about a screw-in, at least not to me. For my part, I’m happy with the glue-ons, as I can slap them right on some wood shafts, and if I decide to convert to screw-ins I can choose the weight of the adapter to best fit my needs. I’ve never had any problem with glue-in adapters so long as I clean both parts with rubbing alch or acetone.
in reply to: Mechanical Broadheads #15407Bruc — Can you recommend a good replaceable-blade broadhead that is truly cut-on-contact? I’m yet to see one, but only variations on a central cone or pyramid. And so far as I know, nobody makes a 2-blade replaceable design?? Way back when, I did everything wrong (the Ashby Natal Study was yet to be published, or at least to come to my attention) by using aluminum shafts and 125-grain Thunderhead 3-blades, total arrow weight around 550, for elk. I cringe to think how many shots that had “perfect arrow placement” and “should have” penetrated for a double-lung kill did not. Over and over I had to follow blood trails and frequently finish the animal off with another shot. And I was shooting 64 pounds. Then I discovered heavy arrows and 2-blade heads and all that guilt and misery is history. I am not disagreeing with you at all, but merely adding some personal background. Indeed, replaceable-blade heads beat mechanical heads all to pieces, yet they themselves are far inferior to fixed blades for penetration and ruggedness. I used them “back when” precisely for the reason you bring up — my inability to sharpen fixed blades to my satisfaction. Turns out that was mostly because I hadn’t really applied myself. Happily, more and more two-blade makers, esp. of single-bevels, are finally offering truly shaving-sharp professionally sharpened heads “out of the box” that need only a stropping to be hunt-ready. True cut-on-contact heads are all the more important when shooting lower poundage trad bows. IMHO and personal experience.
in reply to: STOS broadheads- problems #15157Have you contacted STOS about this? I know there have been some changes there of late in “manufacturing service providers.” Give ’em a holler and let us know what they say. I’m sure that if there are structural problems they will make good.
in reply to: erratic wooden arrow flight #13407TK — since your arrows are flying “every which way” I’m inclined to think the problem is crooked arrows, or badly mismatched spines, or mismatched shaft weight. I have quit using POC due to the increasing inability to get good consistent shafts. If you bought “bargain” arrows it’s likely that they’re not only not straight, but all over the map in spine and shaft weight as well. In addition to spinning the shafts to get a close check on straightness (and you shouldn’t have had to straighten them all in the first place), weigh them all — anything more than 10 grains difference between lightest and heaviest is unacceptable, and conscientious arrowsmiths and shaft providers shoot for 5 grains or less. I don’t know how you can check spine, but if any of these three basics is way off — straightness, weight, and spine consistency — you’re wasting your time with changing point weights and paper tuning. I’m quite happy with Surewood (Douglas fir) shafts and I always buy my shafts from an arrow specialist and never a big warehouse operation. Good luck.
in reply to: Takedown Longbow #13280Mark — Check out the threads “Opinions on take-down longbows” parts 1 and2, over on the “Bows and Trad Equipment” forum.
in reply to: File Sharpening Single Bevel Broadheads #13277John — google KME Sharpeners and check their videos. There may be one in there on sharpening with a file. I know that both Ed Ashby and Ron Swartz (KME) have done articles on it in TBM. You won’t be “slicing” the file, since you clamp the head and file it, rather than moving the head over a stone for finish sharpening. There are folks here who are far better qualified on this topic tham I am, but I guess they’re out hunting. You don’t want to file into the edge. I file down and foward.
in reply to: Bucks and Bears in the Adirondacks #13270I’d say “good luck,” John, but you’re already enjoying the best of luck just to have a trip like that. Dave
in reply to: File Sharpening Single Bevel Broadheads #11685Both Ron Swartz, “Sharpster” of KME, and Dr.Ashby recommend coating the beveled edge with a felt marker before sharpening. That way, you can see if you’re holding the file at the wrong angle. Take a few strokes on the bevel, then flip the head and remove the burr from the flat side, and so on. In my experience you can’t beat a KME knife sharpener, as it allows you to adjust the sharpening angle to match precisely with the blade bevel. Without Sharpster’s blessing I broke off a length of file to fit into the stone holder in order to maintain a consistent file angle, and it worked great. dp
in reply to: NY opening day #11045Congratulations, Dan and Charlie! I’m currently hunting for a “doe” myself (cow elk) and hope I do as well in bringing home the “bacon” as you guys have, in lousy weather to boot.
Charlie — I’m curious about the arrow wound between her front legs. I’m guessing it’s an exit wound and you shot her at a steep angle down, from a tree? Dave
in reply to: shooting longbow at lower temperatures #10926As David/dwcphoto implies above, with fiberglass lam bow it really doesn’t matter much what’s inside — they are good to go for a very wide range of temps and heat is a greater threat than cold. If there is no glass in the bow, it’s a whole different story. When it’s even moderately cold I always “warm up” my boo-backed osage (and other all-wood) bows by drawing them every now and then as I hunt, or carrying a stump arrow for an occasional shot. Good luck
in reply to: Congratulations Dave #10721Well, my belated thanks to all you nice folks who have offered belated congrats. Sometimes we get lucky. 😀
And Brent — Glad to see you here. Hang around and join our conversations.
I’m still hunting on a late-season cow tag, but since right after I killed that bull, back on the 17th, my hunting area has been elkless. First rifle just started and I have hopes the pressure will move them from whereever they’ve disappeared to, and back down my way. Ain’t never seed nuthin like it afore. Downright spooky out there night after night in dead total weird silence, feeling and likely being the only large living mammal on the mountain. Maybe the gods of hunting are telling me not to be so greedy. dave
in reply to: Hunting Deer with a 35# bow… #10114Colorado is 35# for all big game, including elk. It’s ludicrous and embarrassing. 👿 😳
in reply to: The Grizzly BH Arises from the Ashes #9600That’s a generous view for you to take, Joe, considering that Grizzly is in direct competition with your Tuffhead. I’ve heard similar “comraderie trumps competition” views expressed by Blake Fischer of Eclipse/Werewolf, toward fellow small-op broadhead makers. Where else in American business can we find such mutual respect and well-wishing than among “Ma and Pa” traditional archery and bowhunting entrepreneurs? My applause. Dave
in reply to: wooden arrow nocks to big for the string??? #7666I second Troy, having over-heated and ruined a few plastic nocks. Try one serving thickness of dental “tape,” which is wide and flat. Check the fit. Continue until it’s right. The trend these days is toward thinner strings as Fast Flight continues to increase in popularity. On my heavier bow I shoot 8 strands and 6 strands on the lighter bow. Slip-in plastic nocks for carbon arrows generally are a better fit for the thinner strings, but that won’t do you any good. Some makers of thinner strings are compensating by adding more serving. I predict nocks will soon come in various sizes for linen (thickest) B50 and FF. For now, dental tape is the ticket. IMHO
-
AuthorPosts
