[richard roop]

in reply to: 2019-20 season updates #145764

I’ve given most of the carp away.  Somewhere around here though, I have a recipe for fish cakes that I want to try.

[richard roop]

in reply to: 2019-20 season updates #145759

Thanx !!! ……………… Semi Retirement is agreeing with me. My goal this spring & early summer is a 35# carp.  My biggest ever was a 33#-er out of Black Lake up in Washington.  I’m here to tell ya, a >30 # carp will pull a canoe around for a bit !!!

[richard roop]

in reply to: 2019-20 season updates #145749

Hunting was good …………… Getting was poor.

Wolves up on the Rim got the turkeys and most of the deer. Skipped a few arrows across the desert toward coyotes  & thumped a few rabbits.  Won a few tournaments and improved my form a bit.

Got a javelina this Jan. and now getting ready for spring bowfishing.

[richard roop]

in reply to: Paint instead of wraps? #145737

While I haven’t gotten into the ultra extreme excessive F.O.C. I do understand the concept. I just tend to keep using what’s worked well in the past.

One thing that you might try, though, is the big crest instead of the crown dip or wrap.  Mark where your fletching is on the bare shaft and do about a 6 inch crest ahead of the fletching. I mask each end of the area on the shaft that I want the crest and rattle can a white base coat. When dry, I rattle can a coat of hot pink and finish with a clear coat.  Actual cresting lines are done with either paint or a Sharpie Marker as the spirit moves me.  Shafts are then fletched with 5 inch hot pink feathers and a hot pink nock installed.

This gives a number of good things happening; nock, fletch and crest give about 12 inches of color to follow in flight,  the crest moves the weight forward a bit compared to dip or crown wrap,  and they are easier to find in the unlikely event of a miss.

[richard roop]

in reply to: What ya got goin'? 2 #145730

Dave;

Just saw your post asking about my Javelina recipe.

I go pretty simple with a denture friendly pounding with the meat tenderizing mallet, dredge in egg then flour.  A pinch of salt, a shake of pepper & a hint of garlic. Fry it up in Crisco.  Serve with mashed potatoes & some sauted mushrooms and Chaucer’s Mead.

Simple is good …………… There-fore very simple is very good.

[richard roop]

in reply to: Tip section ……………. paper tuning #145693

Got it …… Good stuff !!!

I tend to go a bit over-board when tuning.  I have a set of bare shafts, two each of different weight points. (Anything worth doing is worth over-doing)

One thing that I haven’t seen mentioned is replacing the weight of the fletching on the bare shaft.  On mine, it’s 15 grains total for the three feathers. It may or may not be enough to affect the total weight or F.O.C. balance but just to be sure, I added lines of glue to the fletch area & re-weighed when dry until I had brought the weight back up.

There’s a difference between knowing it’s good and KNOWING it’s good.

[richard roop]

in reply to: Question for those with knowledge on FOC #145502

Question;

If you’re getting pass thrus on elk, what’s your goal ????  Pass thrus on Mastodons ?????

You have great arrow speed for a longbow & I assume good arrow flight.  My advice; Shoot the heck out of it & then shoot it some more.

[richard roop]

in reply to: New member #145044

Welcome and Greetings from a long ago Three Rivers Mich. guy.

[richard roop]

in reply to: Getting use to bow quiver. #144895

For what it’s worth;

Bowquivers will change balance & feel. It’s not ‘bad’ it’s just ‘different’.  You might try shooting a bit with an empty quiver, getting used to it and then adding arrows one at a time until you’re fully loaded.

I’m running an old modified Sagitarius (sp) 8 arrow quiver that now holds 10 arrows.  Usually 6 broadheads & 4 blunts.  Sometimes a couple of flu-flus also. I would rather look silly with too many arrows than look goofy running out with some clueless critter standing in front of me.

Two things to be aware of;  (1) The added weight of the quiver can change the ‘tune’ of the bow & (2) The weight difference between a full  quiver and an empty one can effect the ‘tune’ with more than about 10 arrows.

 

[richard roop]

in reply to: Brand new to Traditional Archery #144683

Question;

Does Cactus Juice increase the weigh of the wood to a noteworthy degree ????

Thinking out loud …………… Cedar shaft, dip about 6 inches of the point end in the Juice. Add strength & weight to the forward end without the hassle of footing the shaft. ????

[richard roop]

in reply to: 0% f.o.c ???. #144674

The book is a worthwhile read; good information.

The period referred to was when England was transitioning from archery being military and practice mandated by Royal Edict at NOT LESS than 200 yards to recreational competition with little in the way of distances or targets being standard.  At this time, the Archer’s Paradox was still pretty much a ………… paradox. Arrow points to the left but hits straight ahead. …… ?????  The different shaft profiles had a lot to do with how the shaft was assumed to pass over the riser and come on line with the target.  I suspect that (like now) some of the old time experts may not have totally understood all that they knew.

Rant to follow, alert;

Longbow shooters of old regularly shot at 200 plus yards. This moved into the York Round with a 100 yard max. Then the American Round with a 60 yard max. Currently, many shoot no more than the 30 or so yards that we compete our ‘Traditional’ tournaments at.   We are losing the sheer joy of roving with a couple of friends, launching at a stump or some such target over on the next hillside.  NOTE; I am speaking of shooting for the sake of the flight of the arrow …………… NOT shooting at game out past sure kill yardages.

End of rant. Pile on.

 

[richard roop]

in reply to: 0% f.o.c ???. #144668

Interesting ……………………..

Reading  “Straight and True by Hugh D. H. Soar. A Select History of the Arrow.  Of the four styles of shaft profile used back in the day in Merry Ol’ England, being, parallel, barreled, bob-tailed (thicker at the point tapering thinner to the nock)  and lo & behold, ……………. ‘breasted’ (thicker at the nock tapering thinner to the point).  That seems like it would play Hob with the f.o.c.

I swear, there isn’t much that’s new in archery …………………… just the same old things coming around again in different packaging.

[richard roop]

in reply to: Rivercane arrow shafts #144658

If you can score on a copy of The Backwoodsman magazine Nov / Dec 2017 Vol 38 No.6 ……. there’s a good article on Making the Cane Arrow Shaft.  Quite a bit of good information.

[richard roop]

in reply to: 0% f.o.c ???. #144645

To be honest ……………. I would be somewhat afraid to shoot one.

Seems to me that the tendency would be for the shaft to rotate like a boomerang.

[richard roop]

in reply to: Propeller Twist #144588

I don’t claim to know squat about carving a bow out of a hunk of wood, but I do know that the wood has to dry / season and the time frames I’ve seen are about 6 months to one year depending on conditions, type of wood, time of year it was cut, etc.

You might consider obtaining a stave of Osage Orange to gain some experience with while you’re waiting.

Best of luck !!!

 

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