[richard roop]

in reply to: Co-Flex ………………..Good stuff !!! #147415

Grip on the Super Diablo is holding up well. Very pleased with it.

While I’m waiting on delivery of the latest orphan I adopted off of eBay (Black Swan 62″ / 62# @28″) I got out my coyote calling bow (Bear Magnum 48) and mounted an eight arrow retro Bear spring arm quiver.  Totally cool quiver but a wee bit ‘twangy’ for a hunting bow.  Added some quiver foam on top of the factory stuff and wrapped any of the wire frame that  I could with thin strips of Co-Flex. Much better; less twangy and more thuddy.   Thud I can handle.  I’m liking that Magnum 48 more all of the time.  Not quite as fast as some of my other bows but out to 30 yards (good coyote calling distance) it’s a heck of a shooter and fun to shoot.

[richard roop]

in reply to: bowstring size #147337

Best suggestion I could give would be to call 3 Rivers Archery or one of the string makers. There ‘should’ be some information printer on bottom half of the riser ……………………… 45# @ 28″, a serial # and AMO xx inches.  Somebody should be able to get you the right sized string with that information.

[richard roop]

in reply to: Small game hunting, Ace Hex Head or The Hammer..? #147318

Cool idea putting a .38 case over a field point !!!!

Thinking that the weight could be adjusted a bit by dropping in a few #6 birdshot.  Mounted on an expendable #2 or #3 shaft I will fear no Ground Squirrel sitting on a rock !!!!

[richard roop]

in reply to: elk scull #147267

Good article in this month’s (July/Aug. 2020) Predator xtreme magazine on skull cleaning with bugs.

[richard roop]

in reply to: Going with with what you have. #147266

I’m a huge fan of roving with Judo blunts.  A little walking, a little shooting & maybe a bit of scouting while you’re at it.

Makes for a pretty good day.

[richard roop]

in reply to: Meet some hunters in Minnesota #147265

You might try going to local sporting goods stores and ask about other trad shooters.

Also …………….. If there are any tournaments with-in fifty miles go and check them out. Good people and good times weather you’re a serious shooter or just casual.  Sometimes just the exchange of ideas is worth the drive.

[richard roop]

in reply to: selfbow shelf position #147255

And on the other hand, we have our Kyudo brethren shooting bows so far from center that I have no idea how they even begin to tiller.

This is why I don’t build bows ………………… after almost six decades of building arrows I’m still amazed at the amount of physics involved in a simple pointed stick with bird feathers on the end.   The variables involved with reflex / deflex , straight limb / recurve limb, riser shapes & length, materials and tapers in bow builds must be endless.

The whole thing gives me a headache and I may go up on the mountain this afternoon and hunt the wiley feral pinecone.  (Plus, it’s 108* down here in the desert today).

 

[richard roop]

in reply to: selfbow shelf position #147237

I don’t claim to know squat about bow builds, ……………just thinking out loud.

With the arrow rest in the center, wouldn’t shooting with a high wrist on a built up grip and the arrow nock right up under the eye be the hot ticket ???

[richard roop]

in reply to: elk scull #147133

Several ways ………………………… some less good than others.

Boiling, actually, simmering for a long time. Don’t submerge the antlers and watch for teeth that fall out.  De-greasing and rinsing afterwards required.

Ant hill. Put the skull on an ant hill. Probably need some form of cage to prevent problems with stray dogs. Doesn’t hurt to wrap the antlers with something to keep them from getting sun-bleached.

Decomposition. Pretty much the same as simmering ………… just takes a lot longer and stinks to high Heaven.  If you know a canine trapper, they would likely love to have the water when you’re done.

You Tube probably has better instructions.

Best option; Find somebody with a Bug Box, pay the fee and let the beetles do the work.

[richard roop]

in reply to: Fletching application order #147048

rgrist;

This whole straight fletch / helical fletch thing is one of those mysteries of archery.

Spoiler alert; There’s no difference with field points and probably no difference with broadheads.  There’s a thread around here somewhere that covers it fairly well with reference to a couple of articles that cover it very well.

It makes no sense but just to be sure, I took a matched set of 6 straight fletch / no off set and 6 helical / max twist and shot for distance.  At aprox. 180 yards they impacted into one mixed group.  At that point I got a head-ache thinking about it and went off to hunt dirt clods.

I still use helical on my arrows, mainly because that’s just the way all of my jigs are set up and it just seems ‘right’ to put broadheads in front of helical.

YMMV.

[richard roop]

in reply to: Fletching application order #147022

I had to do the same thing with all of my Bitzenberger Jigs. Never did understand why such a well designed tool would not accept an 11/32″ nock. A couple of passes with the Dremal and all is sunshine and lollipops again. Until I drilled them out, I would just twist on dry a 5/16″ nock, fletch the shaft and then swap the 5/16″ nock with an 11/32″ one & a spot of glue.

[richard roop]

in reply to: Fletching application order #147017

Somewhere, I seem to remember mention of Mr. Hill glueing a small white glass bead on or just above his nock back before index nocks.  Might work on carbons ??

I’m shooting off of a Bear Weather Rest and have found that it don’t make no never-mind which way it’s nocked.

[richard roop]

in reply to: My Broadhead Choice #147006

Those Tuskers look pretty good. If I ever run out of Zwickeys I’ll give them a closer look. (I found a close-out deal on Zwickeys at $24 a dozen and bought all 10 doz.)

I like that ‘Arrows with no strings attached’. Mine are marked at the nock. No mark is a number one, suitable for hunting or tournaments. Two lines around the shaft at the nock means an arrow that has a slight defect but is still a very shootable stumper. Three lines and the ground squirrel sitting on a rock is in more trouble than it thinks.

 

[richard roop]

in reply to: Fletching application order #147005

I’m the complete opposite of Stephen on this one. Dipped end caps, cresting, mega-crest / bare shaft under the feathers,  spliced feathers, cresting under the feather splice or prismatic tape wraps (Bad idea for hunting arrows but really cool at flashlight shoots.)  Even my bowfishing arrows are dipped, crested and spiral camo-ed Making inside barreled aluminum shafts back in the compound days was a hoot.  Wood shafts ?? Tapered w/ purple heart footings. Then there’s the physical arrow itself; F.O.C. % over-all weight and spine considerations.  I just really enjoy building arrows.

Sign in my work-shop …………….. Anything Worth Doing Is Worth Over-Doing.

[richard roop]

in reply to: Fletching application order #146997

What kind of fletching jig did you get ???

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