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in reply to: How long before your first harvest? #55575
Doc Nock wrote: Vintage,
I probably owe you and readers the apology!
It’s been a couple very frustrating years. We hunt a nice piece of land that lacks bedding areas. it’s near 3 hrs away. After 20 yrs, something changed drastically. We’re surrounded on 3 sides by posted ground and suddenly, NO DEER but a few long range sightings.
Some folks only have marginal areas in which to hunt…and limited time…and in either or both those circumstances, it may go long, long times before they connect.
Transitioning to trad gear from other forms of archery has been so punctuated with the emphasis on PRACTICE and SET UP of gear, that I sometimes wonder if we’ve infused Trad with such mystic, that some feel so intimidated, that they are paranoid about “dropping the string”, which serves to delay that first success????
!
Doc Knock I don’t know why you would owe any one apology. I certainly was not offended by any thing you said.
I agree with what you are saying. I complete understand your frustration when it comes to hunting ground most of us are experiencing that same. Even if you have the federal forrest in your back yard there are aggravating things you have to put up with to hunt.
I do think as you state that most of us hunt with to much self imposed pressure to make a kill…to make it the biggest in the forrest,,,,to make it a buck instead of a doe. I have been guilty of this myself. The hunts that I have enjoyed and remember as stated by other I have not taken game at all.
There is a happy medium between these two positions. Yes we want to have success as motivation to go…but we should not forget some of the reasons why we go…that is to get away from the pressures of everyday living ,to enjoy nature in it simplicity. To get down to basics….Basic are why we are traditional hunters and carry a stick and string in to the woods to hunt with instead of a mechanical bow (machine) and its frustrations.
Doc it sounds like you need to spend time finding new hunting property ……that is frustrating.
.
in reply to: How long before your first harvest? #55021Not to change the subject but I do occasionally sleep in the tree stand (saftey harness in place )or sitting on the ground waiting for game…. My wife asks me why I do that………..My thoughts are that I am so content and relaxed while out in nature the I fall asleep…what is wrong with that hunting is my relaxation 😀 ………..but for you deer it is always with one eye open 😀 😀
in reply to: How long before your first harvest? #54950Doc Nock, I dont disagree with anything you have pointed out. I over simplified my statement to make a point.
Yes you have to be in a place where there is game.that is a big help…. time in the field would mean scouting planning where to set up a stand or ambush …..but even with all that homework there will be days when you don’t see game or you are not in the right place to get a shot… or you blow it…that is when the two P’s kick in.:D
I guess I am referring to guys starting out ..stick with it and you will be successful and have fun trying.
Some folks that can’t spend days in the field like some pro’s aand may go many seasons before the opportunity comes for them…..they need the two p’s:D
in reply to: How long before your first harvest? #54898Good things happen to hunters with patience and perseverence.
I always wonder how certain people always shoot large deer. I discovered that part of it was skill but all things being equal it is because they are in the field a lot. More time in the field improves the luck factor….being in the right place at the right time. …..It could be they don’t nod off in the stand either………….Next year I plan to spend more time in the field and try to get more rest when at home 😀 😀 😀
All kidding aside when I lived in North Dakota and before Canada required outfitters I had a great opportunity to hunt bears on the cheap. Several of my friends and myself ran a baiting operation for ourselves in Sask,Canada. I was the last one of the group to kill a bear and it took five years. Since that time I have shot 11 bears with long bow (please I just mention this to make a point) .I personally feel the after five years I gained a certain set of skills but most of all I believe that the majority of it was luck and time spent in the stand (awake)
I do believe that that some get the wrong impression from the hunting media particular TV that hunting is easy.:(
***********PATIENCE AND PERSEVERENCE *********
in reply to: First deer and thanks to Tradbow folks #29908I failed to mention that George is actively involved in the TuffHead business as a independent contractor. George does all my shipping .He picks up the orders from the website ,after I have reviewed them ,and with the inventory of products he maintains at his store he fills and ships the orders.Being a one person business having George doing the shipping lightens my load allowing me to work the shop,field the phone and answer emails,do the books etc,etc.:lol: …. When I was having health problems George kept the orders rolling ….Some of you may have had direct contact with George if you have emailed a question about a order. George has been a real asset to my business and a good friend.
in reply to: First deer and thanks to Tradbow folks #29888Congratulations George on your first bow kill
Let me introduce the tradbow family to George Fritz…….George owns and operates a furniture store in Arthur Illinois along with his son Adam.They also operate a Guided tour business there in Arthur,Illinois. Arthur is in the heart of Amish country and the town is the hub of tourism.
I met George while accompanying (following ) my wife as she was shoping. He was on the store floor and sensed my boredom.:D We immediately struck up a conversation and found we had lots in common. George and son Adam are avid water fowl hunters. Through our conversation I learned that he had designed several web sites. Many months later when I was ready to launch http://www.tuffhead.com I went to George to see if he could help. Did I mention that George is a very patient person that was the key to formulating the web site.
Through working on the web site George picked up the basics of Dr. Ashby’s principals of broadheads and arrows . Over time George showed a interest in archery . I fuled that interest by furnishing him with a three piece long bow built by Chuck Jones of Okaw Valley Archery. The bow was about 49lbs maybe a little heavy to get started but he took to it like a duck to water.
Through persistence and practice he became confident enough to try bow hunting for the first time this year. His story tells the rest………George I am really proud that maybe I was a little help in getting you started in traditional archery…. may you grow to love it like the rest of the members here at tradbow.
While this thread was your first I hope it is not the last. To most the first post on a web site is intimidating… thanks for your first post. Maybe you could post a picture of your first archery kill which just happens to be with a traditional bow. I have a ulterior motive in requestiong a picture .If you figure out how to do it you can show me.:D
in reply to: 300 Tuffhead testimony #20529[quote=jpcarlson] I find this Trad hunting to be a wonderful slippery slope and find myself itching to keep simplifying my equipment for the field. I would love to get to the point of making a selfbow, arrows, and flint heads. I feel the hunt would take on even greater meaning. I just love the darn curves of a recurve though:) I guess I will just have to try them all. The older I become, the more the manner in which I hunt and the equipment I use plays the largest role in the experience I have.
Jans[/quote)
JP
Congratulations on your first traditional kill. and thanks for reporting your experiences with the TuffHead.
I would encourage you to pursue your desire to build a self bow.Killing game with a bow you made yourself is a real thrill and takes you another step into the traditional archery world. I am not so sure I would encourage you to use flint points……….that is bad for the broad head business:D:D
Again congratulations !!
in reply to: Remove inserts from carbon shafts #104732blade wrote: Here’s something you might want to try in the future. Instead of gluing the insert in use a plastic sandwich bag as a shim. Place the bag over the end of the shaft and insert the insert, it should go in fairly tight and quite often I have to push down on the shaft with the insert on solid ground to seat it. They won’t come out if using a bag or foam target, hard foam like a 3d target they might. Then you can just take a pair of pliers and pull them out by gripping the field point. Trim the shaft, reinsert and away you go.
2 BLADE That is a good tip,I use that on my knocks.Never thought about using it on the tip end. I use wood fiber bales for a target I bet I have a 100 dollars worth of inserts field points in them. Start digging to much tears up the bale. Probably stick to cutting the nock end while using this style target. 😆
in reply to: Remove inserts from carbon shafts #9836Duncan wrote: Guys,
I’m a relative newby when it comes to carbon shafts. Wood and aluminum have been my mainstays since the beginning. I have some 30″ carbons that fly well out of my 50# Super Shrew. My draw is about 27″ but now my curiosity is getting the best of me and I want to cut one a little bit at a time to see what happens with the tuning. Should I save myself some trouble and strip the fletching an pull the nock instead of the insert? I installed the insert with 5 min epoxy.
Duncan
DUNCANYou guessed it it is a lot easier to cut from the nock end especially when bear shaft testing. Leav the point end firmly glued .Trying to cut from the front and replacing the inset with out gluing leads to a lot of points and inserts lost in the target.Breaking the glue joint each time you need to adjust the length of the arrow is a pain: The insert on carbon arrow are a press fit and easy to remove and replace:D
in reply to: question about eye dominance #60568Really interesting discussion.
I am naturally left handed although I am right eye dominant. As a kid I shot a rifle and batted a base ball right handed I threw a ball left handed and caught with my right. I wrote left handed until a teacher forced me to switch and write right handed. When I graduated and left that school I started writing left handed and still do today 60 years later.:D LOL Not sure what this has to do with shooting than other than a little background
I shot a bow right handed for twenty years then developed shoulder problems in my string arm (right arm) I was afraid to have a operation thinking of a failed operation would leave me not being able to shoot at all. ( new science and methods have reduced this possibility greatly). I elected instead to switch to shooting left handed.
Switching really was not much of a problem being left handed anyway. Shooting was not a problem either as I shot with both eyes open. The only problem was replacing all the right handed bows with left.:D LOL……. There were benefits also . When shooting right handed over the years I developed a case of target panic at least that is what I called it. I could not hold a anchor .As soon as I touched my anchor spot the arrow was gone. Eventually it affected my accuracy . Glen Saint Charles wrote that he had switched and it cured his target panic. It cured mine also. Like others mentioned previously it probably was the result of concentrating on a new shooting form the was the
biggest contributor to the cure. What ever it worked.
Ten years later I developed a persistently sore finger in my shooting hand. I have always shot split finger .but decided to shoot three finger under for relief of the sore finger. This relived the pressure of the string on the middle finger and the finger healed .
One remedy created other problems. Shooting three fingers under moved the arrow up closer to my eye which brought the arrow in focus. Soon my right and left eye were fighting each other for dominance . This is a recent development. I would almost see double arrow tips in my site picture. My shooting went from bad to worse. I could not figure it out.
About a month ago I saw Troy Breeding at Compton in Michigan. We discussed many things but ended up discussing my dominate eye problem. Dr. Breeding (LOL):D
Suggested I close my dominate eye and let the left take over. He also suggested that rather than leaving the eye completely closed to crack it open slightly which would still let the left eye which is looking down the arrow take over. It worked!!! What a relief. Thanks Troy! I find now which Troy also predicted is all it takes is a wink of the right dominant eye to stop the battle of the eye balls.
This may all sound crazy . I really don’t care how it sounds it worked for me. I f I have to keep my toes crossed when shooting I will so I can continue to pursue archery hunting .
I write this thinking it might help others some day in their twilight years 😆
in reply to: High FOC Vs. Speed #57166Etter1 wrote: It seems to me that it would be very hard to shoot an arrow that heavy, very accurately.
For me, it would be, anyway.
Etter You should check out Dr.Ashby’s studies.In particular interest would be High FOC arrows.There are also videos by Dr Ed that shows the benefits of FOC arrows. You can find these at
http://www.tuffhead.com/education/education_main.html
EFOC could open a whole new archery experience. There is not as much drop in a heavy EFOC arrow as most think . Ed demonstrates this very well.
Both Ed and David P address the fact if you shoot the same bow and arrow set up instead of changing back and forth your brain compensates for shooting heavier arrows accurately ( assuming one shoots instinctively).
TRUE FLIGHT MAKES A 2″ feather
in reply to: High FOC Vs. Speed #56014jpcarlson wrote: All very good advice gentelmen, thank you! Dave, I have thought of doing exaclty what you were recommending; lowering my head weight with the 225s or the 190 meat heads. I will have to crunch some numbers to see what I need to do to keep the most weight up front and end up around 650grs. I do love how my heavy hitters shoot though:) They fly so darn well, quiet, and dive deep in/through the target:) I might just keep shooting them as I have shot this setup a lot and trust it. Maybe changing my quiver would help? I is all metal and makes a bit of noise. I have a limb bolt have an old Bear quiver mounted on the bow. The darn thing is all metal and makes a bit of noise. I have a limb bolt mounted Selway quiver on one of my bows and love it, but would need a limb slip on quiver for my Bear. Does anyone have experience with those?
J
Every one has their preference on quivers I took the quiver off my bow long time ago . If it was not the quiver it was the arrows or feathers making enough noise that it bothered me.I was sure if it bothered me, it could be detected by the animal. May be that was why the animals were ducking ,spinning and running before the arrow got there:lol:
in reply to: High FOC Vs. Speed #56007I would agree that the difference in speed is not going to be as importance as the quietness of the arrow. J you did not mention your feather set up. A low profile feather would go a long way in quieting the arrow like the A&A or similar style.
You did talk about feathers in another post on fletching but I don’t believe you said what you had decided on.
Speed Goats are fun to hunt .Good luck You have a good set up that should bolster your confidence.:D
in reply to: shaft sleeve fit problem with Tuffheads #52885David Petersen wrote:
……………. I’m thinking, is if Joe at Tuffhead has his field points redesigned to fit as far back on the shaft as the broadheads do. Yet for all I know I and a handful of others may be the only ones experimenting with using a sleeve on wood shafts. This is not a complaint but a heads-up and open question to anyone with a solution.
Dave there you go again creating more work for me:lol:
Enlarging the field point ferrule diameter which is 11/32 diameter to 23/64 diameter the same as the broadhead causes problems pulling the field tip out of targets. Increasing the diameter of the ferrule is the only way to get the arrow to seat in the same spot as when mounted in a TuffHead.
I might suggest that if using hot met on your footing to heat it and move it down over the bare spot on the wood shaft . I probably missing something here Is there a reason that can’t
be done?
In the picture of the wood arrow and the 300 TH there appears to be wood showing between the footing and the brodhead. I would think that footing would fit down in the broad head or flush with the metal on the broadhead back depending on the OD of the footing
I would recommend that wood arrows used with field points and practice not be interchanged for hunting arrows with brodheads. It would be alright to use the hunting arrows after the season with field tips for practice.
I do recommend one shoot every broadhead and arrow in their quiver before hunting to insure a reliable set up. Like Dr. Ashby says at very least test the first arrow you would be shooting at game to insure of a structurally sound arrow and broad head .
Sounds to me you are getting ready to chase elk . You are just a few weeks from the real fun……..:D
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