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in reply to: My first glimpse of falconry #37733
That is soooo cool!!
I have a friend in North Idaho that used to have a hawk for hunting. Now though I believe he still cares for wounded birds of prey for the state game dept. last time I saw him he had a young owl with a broken wing he was rehabilitating.
Your pics sure bring back memories.
Thanks for sharing.
Troy
in reply to: Bare shaft tuning #37558Bare shaft tuning is tuning your arrow to your bow without fletching. You will need to have the point weight the same as or as close to your broad head weight as you can get, you will also want the arrow sealed, if shooting wood, and have the cresting done, if your finished arrow will have cresting, prior to tuning.
You do not want to bare shaft with a broad head.
Good luck
Troy
in reply to: Started Bare shaft Arrow Tuning #36472The only times I hear a crack from the arrow hitting the riser is when my nock point needs adjusting.
As far as tuning and spine of the arrows jwesbrook is giving you great advice.
Good luck
Troy
in reply to: Brace Height Problems #35481Robbie,
Your string may need to be adjusted, unstring the bow, remove the bottom limb string loop, holding the loop, twist the string the same direction the serving is wrapped (normally clockwise,hope I don’t have that backwards) about 4 full turns per 1/2″ of brace height. Every bow and string is a bit different so you will have to use trial and error to get the correct brace height. To determine the direction the serving is wrapped hold to bow strait up and down and look at the wrap of the serving from top toward the bottom.
Now all this only works if the string is in good condition. It maybe that the string has reach the end of its useful life and has already been twisted more than it should be for safe use.
If you don’t know how to tell and don’t have anyone around that can advise you, for safety’s sake, I highly recommend that you take the bow to a pro shop and have them check it for you.
There are a lot more folks here that have more experience that I do and they my be able to explain it better than I did and help more.
Good luck
Troy
in reply to: witch is beter #33934Its been a mild winter here, So far this winter our coldest has been -23F, and that was only for a couple of days. Here the wind is what kicks your butt.
As for that ground hog I recommend a 300 grn broad head. That would anchor him so he couldn’t get back in his hole.
in reply to: witch is beter #32968It might only get down to -5 tonight! For the last week that will be considered a heat wave.:P
It might get to 10 above tomorrow so I can do a little stumpin in the back yard.
Troy
in reply to: Speed of FF vs Dacron #32368Thanks Steve,
That’s pretty much what I decided too.
A little confirmation in a persons thought process from some more experienced folks goes along way in putting a bit more confidence behind a decision.
Thanks again guys
Troy
in reply to: witch is beter #31936Cabin fever indeed!
A person needs to have a sense of humor to take up traditional tackle. If we take ourselves to seriously we’d lose our minds while trying to figure this gig out.
in reply to: witch is beter #31787Wow, 1st post and they pounce:wink:
The closer to center the shelf is cut the easier to tune the arrows to the bow because as smithhammer mentioned center cut is more tolerant of a wider range of spines for the arrows. Instinctive shooting takes lots of practice with either a center cut bow or a self bow with no shelf. Which ever a person chooses, as you practice with that bow your mind will make corrections, little by little until it becomes natural to pick a spot point and shoot that bow accurately. I think I have that right? The folks here know what their doing and have a wealth of knowledge that you can tap.
I might have this slightly over simplified but, I believe in simple.
Good luck
Troy
in reply to: Speed of FF vs Dacron #31300Thanks guys for the input it is apriciated.
Troy
in reply to: Speed of FF vs Dacron #30658Dave,
I agree it doesn’t make sense to not make a bow FF compatible with the types of new stronger/faster string material available in today’s market. That said the particular bowyer I am looking into has on his website that standard bows are not FF compatible, it costs extra to get the FF option.
Hence my question on how much it would affect penetration, and string jump.
Just wanted to hear from experienced folks in the use of Dacron string material prior to making an expensive decision.
Thanks for the input
Troy
in reply to: Is Ash OK ? #29599I sealed my ash arrows with 3 rivers dipping lacquer. As mentioned above tongue oil works well, I have used it on some cedars I made up and it does add quite a bit of weight. If you use the oil to seal the shafts to get the fletching glue to adhere well and/or you want to do a cresting you will need to let the shafts set out, preferably hung up, to completely dry so you can’t feel any oil on your fingers while handling them.
Troy
in reply to: Is Ash OK ? #29108I have some tapered ash arrows that fly very well. My best advice is to make dang sure they are strait and stay strait for at least a week prior to sealing. Once sealed they are almost impossible to get strait and stay strait.
Good Luck
Troy
in reply to: DVD ideas??? #25344Finally! That wonderful wife of mine had the box hid in plain site:oops:
The full name is Alaska adventures 700 miles alone.
Another one I liked was “lost antlers” it is about a modern day mountain man hunting moose for his winter meat.
Enjoy
Troy
in reply to: DVD ideas??? #17974I think it is called 700 miles alone. It isn’t an archery show but it is a very good look at a DIY solo rafting hunt in Alaska. I’ll find the box my wife hid them in and let you know for sure on the title and a few others I can remember the name of.
Troy
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