[tombow]

in reply to: Tuning struggles #42579

Maybe not in exact question order, but here’s my take/understanding. Think about the paradox (flexing) of the arrow when released. As you release, the nock end of the arrow will be carried (if you are right handed) to the left as the string path will be around your fingers, first left, then to the right, then the string and arrow shaft will begin to reduce their oscillations as the arrow travels forward. If the arrow is too weak, it will bend too much, might slap into the bow a bit or overcompensate for the oscillations, and a stiff arrow may not bend enough and won’t clear the bow well either as it Undercompensates. IF, by moving your arrow plate you have found a place where it is too far away from center, the arrow shows stiff, then have found a place where the arrow shows weak with a different arrow plate location, there has to be a point where the arrow plate is in the right place for your arrow spine.

Have you tried different point weights while tuning as another option to changing dynamic spine of your shafts?

This is probably the easiest way, with screw in points to tune an arrow to a bow without changing effective center shot (moving the arrow plate). You could also try making adjusments to your brace height. Just yesterday I made a change to brace height (higher) and noticed a large improvement in my accuracy. Arrows had been showing a bit stiff and the higher brace height helps to weaken them a bit.

Yes, you have it right: shorter shaft will have higher FOC with the same point weight.

Best of luck tuning, it can be a grizzly but keep at it and you will get it figured out. Shoot straight.

[tombow]

in reply to: Bring it. #41146

You lucky some beaches! But, oh yes, my time draws near my brothers, as your’s arrives, to begin my pursuit for local whitetails and my first venison taken with traditional tackle. My day will come and I whole heartedly share in the meaning just below the surface of your words, that which you clearly explain but only a true bow brudder knows the real feelings that are expressed without words. I are the waiting, YOU are the doing it for real! Keep us posted and be rich in detail, we drink this deep. This bowhunting.

[tombow]

in reply to: cresting on carbons? #39936

Did a little research and have a tip for those of us who use single color wraps:

Went to a local sign making shop and purchased a 2ft X 18″ sheet of adhesive backed vinyl to use for plain white wraps, paid $5 for the sheet. This sheet will yield about 72 wraps at 1″ by 6″ so cost would be about 7 cents a wrap, vs. close to a $1 each average purchased cost. They had several colors but I use white for arrow visibility. So far they have proven very durable as my broadhead target is taking a single-bevel beating as of late. Since I have been testing various feather configurations, the wraps allow me, once have settled on the fletching combo that works best, to change out feathers by removing feathers and wrap together, then re-wrapping and refletching.

[tombow]

in reply to: Arrow test details #33017

I believe that the 3 Rivers catalog has a screw-on adapter that fits the end of wood arrows, allowing the use of screw-in points. Not sure what the weight is on these.

Best of luck,

TomBow

[tombow]

in reply to: Arrow test details #31635

One more detail. The shafts are nock-end tapered.

[tombow]

in reply to: Ground Blinds #58771

Leo,

I did alot of research/looking at blinds earlier this year, prep for turkey hunting. Ended up with a Barronette Blinds Big Mike 275, which is 80″ in height, plenty of upper limb room, BUT as with most commercial ground blinds, window height is a bit high. I got away with it by stringing a couple small bungees from the outside-blind brush loops, back through the window and hooked to the rods from the hub-based framing. With a relatively short seat I am able to shoot out of the window (I’m 5’7″) without hitting the edge (first shot from the blind went through the folded down window fabric, before I added the bungees) Windows are on all four sides and you don’t need to open them too much to have enough of an opening to shoot through. It comes with “shoot-through mesh” but I’d rather not shoot through that. For deer, gotta brush them in or at least leave them for a while. for turkeys, no problem, middle of the field, hunted it the first day and killed my first trad turkey (first trad harvest ever) 1/2 hr. into the season. Many other blinds don’t have enough height to allow room for a recurve or longbow, they are better suited to compounds. Best of Luck.

[tombow]

in reply to: KME Broadhead sharpener, Single Bevel? #53560

I have ordered the KNIFE sharpener. I tried to work on some Grizzlies that I recently acquired by hand and quickly decided that I NEED TOOLS to maintain and accurate angle on these. Me skills ain’t that great and I would hate to render them unusable. KME Knife it is! Thanks again for the replies.

Best of Luck,

TomBow

[tombow]

in reply to: a dozen shafts #53213

Seems to me that 60-65 spine shafts may be a little light for the 225gr Tuffhead, but if you’re getting good flight….. What bow are you shooting? I have some 60-62 spine cedars with 125gr. head, 3-5″ feathers which fly incredibly well from my 53# longbow. Tapering would, in theory, reduce spine but not alot. I ran your number through Stu’s calculator and dynamic spines comes up about 34#. Hmm, mystery.

[tombow]

in reply to: adding weight to wood #51525

Just curious so I am asking:

What is the desire that you are looking for in adding weight to the shafts, just to have a bit more overall weight?

Do you have a spine tester and, if you do, would you check the spine on these Spar-infused shafts to see if it has affected spine? Again, I am just curious to know if the spar soak has a spine effect.

Thanks.

[tombow]

in reply to: shafts: tapered vs. parallel #49970

Seems to me you’d use 5/16 as that would be the diameter of the nock end of the arrow.

[tombow]

in reply to: Traditional Bowhunting Magazine #49253

From the first issue I picked up, TBM has been there to stir my interest to a fever pitch. Through the words of the many fine writers, I have found the trad bowhunter that had been covered with wheels and all the added bits that I previously thought was part of my bowhunting soul. Not so, I say now and I have evolved into one that is nauseated by the wheelie lifestyle. My wheelies gather dust as I tweak my trad arrows, caress the graceful curves on my longbow and put arrows into the target using my hands and arms and eyes alone. No more picking up the “machine” and hitting the bull with almost no effort. So much more satisfaction in doing it without the complicated apparati. And when I put it all together and made my first harvest (this year), I knew then that I could not and would not go back. TBM is the only magazine that I read and keep every cherished copy to read again and again. YES! Thank you for this magazine.

Only one negative aspect that I see with the magazine: It is too small, too easily read from cover to cover and each issue leaves me craving the next. But I guess that is part of the joy in being trad and reading TBM.

[tombow]

in reply to: shafts: tapered vs. parallel #49172

Thanks for taking the time to reply. Again, I am early into the research and testing phase of wood arrows but am very happy with my first set of woods. I am almost ready to pull the trigger on a set of High FOC woods. Just a little more research and decision making on my part is left. I have been using Stu’s calculator like a madman, tweaking spines and weight information to try and find the right combination that will yield what I am looking for.

[tombow]

in reply to: Wood, Woody weights, high FOC, etc. #38277

Loud and clear Gig, about the “one more link in the chain that can fail. Exactly my thinking. Just was given some 125 gr. grizzly single bevels, and they are a good looking, ie: penetration specific head so I too am looking to get some 200 gr. heads, I’m seriously considering 200 gr Grizzly’s. The woody weight idea just makes me think, hmm, not just one more potentially weak bond between the weight and the head but what about getting it on straight, probably not a big deal BUT I AM gettin-stuff-on-straight-challenged. Yup, I got the GSSC issue so why not simplify by going straight to a heavy head, only 1 thing to get on straight. If I do the 200’s, it looks like I’ll end up with the FOC at mid-teens and a total grain weight of upper 600’s. Which to me is a happy medium. I mounted one 125 grizzly on a POC arrow I recently built, my first woods ever, and it flew well. If I do my part, it should do it’s part, but danged if I don’t just need to TRY something with a little more FOC and weight. Part of the fun, I reckon.

Thanks for the info.

[tombow]

in reply to: Trad-Bow arrow speed & KE #29288

Update: My head was spinning after sifting through all the Ashby library, reading about EFOC, etc. I plan on doing some more testing with some older arrows that I can get up to 21% FOC, whose dynamic spine closely matches the wood arrows I recently put together that fly so well I almost am ready to commit fully to those and put the carbons aside. Just not quite yet. I will be mounting a “donated to the TomBow cause” Grizzly’s on my wood shafts and watching for flight. For me, it’s just the matter of lack of experience with trad.bow kills that has me questioning my set-up. But that IS the ultimate mystery until I see what good flying arrows will do when a whitetail gives me an opportunity. Theories are interesting to think about but I need first-hand experience to say “This is my arrow set-up” and stick to it. Thanks again to everyone who took the time to share info with a trad noob like me. Ya, I know some stuff but there’s some questions that I still need answered. The compound taught me a lot but the satisfaction of instinctively putting the arrow where I am looking has re-lit my bow pleasure level to new heights. Perhaps it is my need to learn more that has me so pumped up. Love my Whip, Love my new arrows. Jeez, I’m just all full o’ love me Bow-Sisters and Bow-Brudders!!

For me, it’s all about the TRADBOW family campfire! Sit down, crack a cold one and let’s talk bows and arrows! Can’t get enough!! And I’m sure I never will.

[tombow]

in reply to: Arrow Flight #24839

Unfortunately, going to need specs: draw length, which carbon’s, insert weight and point weight to fully guage correctness for you and your bow. It may be a spine issue. I spine tested my 500 shafts and they came out stiff, closer to 400 spine. Also, “New” carbons diameter may be smaller than what you had previously been shooting, which puts the point more to the left for a right handed shooter. There’s a few possibilities for you. The Center-cut of the shelf/window will effect which spine. The less center cut windows (cut left of center for a right handed shooter) may require a less stiff shaft in order to produce the correct paradox-flex of the arrow while providing quick recovery (straightening of the arrow shaft after it clears the bow.)

Play around with your nock point, work on one thing at a time as “circles” sounds like you have a nock point height and spine issue. You may be able to tweak the spine by building out your sight window a bit. More answers/possbilities to come I am sure. Best of Luck.

[Author]

Posts