[shotsome]

in reply to: Older Bow ID help #17688

Well,,,Found out that this Riser is from a Martin “WartHog” around 1985 or so,,that is a wheel bow. Some one has put the recurve limbs on it. knew it didn’t fit right. I guess it is called a “Wrafhed” bow. Diffently gonna whittle on this bow.

Will post a picture on here when done if any one is intrested.

Still looking for the identy of the limbs.

[shotsome]

in reply to: 40 yards, Kodiak Mag, elevated rest. #17681

Eyee, Mr. Stout,,,you have done that before,,,:D

Could you show us a picture of the rest you made for this bow?

Thanks, Ernest

[shotsome]

in reply to: Matter of Balance #9823

Pretty Cool,,,He must be single,,a married man would not be that steady.

[shotsome]

in reply to: Reducing draw weight #60841

Much Thanks guys. 😀

Will finish up a couple of other projects, and go for it.

[shotsome]

in reply to: Reducing draw weight #59597

How do you Trap a fiber-glassed Bow,,,Limbs? 😳

[shotsome]

in reply to: Interests #59584

Hey all,,,Fly fishing, fly tying, but also love crappie. Fish when I can. The Arkansas has a fabulous B W O hatch on right now. Muzzle loading,,flint,,real black powder, and cast my own balls. Getting ready to build a Trade gun, with a 16 ga. barrel. Primative Archery, just cut some salt-cedar shoots for arrows, and in the process of making “trade Points” for em.Varmint calling and Trapping. I also enjoy making items out of the animals I harvest. Almost done with a “Bear Cult” knife from a Bear I harvested in AZ. going to make a Quiver from the hide, and maybe a pair of mittens. When I kill deer and elk, I have the hides tanned. Made my set of Ron-D-Vue skins from my elk hides. Waiting for one with the hair on from last season. Should be here any day now. Also enjoy metal detecting for gold nuggets, and desert quail, hunting.

Hey for you artifact hunters, you need to hunt AZ. during the Hava-julina season, the stuff is all over the ground. And it is justplain fun anyway. (if ya kill one, don’t gut it. just carve off the quarters, hide and all. Toss the rest.Then skin the legs with rubber gloves on. Soak in Cold saltwater 24 hrs. Then marinate in soy sauce and grill with butter basting. It is in how you take care of animals that makes them taste good. Another AZ. tip. You can hunt state trust land during all game seasons, just go right by the No Treas-Passing signs, and hunt, you can camp on S.T. land with a 25.00-yr permit up to 14, days also.

Better go for now,,,Ernest.

[shotsome]

in reply to: Reducing draw weight #58445

Thanks Ralph,,,band saw,,no,,file ok. Will wait untill others post some ideas. I knew it could be done. I am shaving on a osage stick bow at the present. So have time to explore the issue.

Ernest.

[shotsome]

in reply to: Older Bow ID help #58327

Well,,,I guess I will saw and rasp, sand, smooth,and polish,,it is mine after all no matter what it is. 😛

“Bose”

[shotsome]

in reply to: Reducing draw weight #58320

R2,,I have wanting to lighten a bow also,, recurve, 75Lb at 28# glass. Did you just bandsaw the limbs? Or what, on the ones you have done?

thanks, Ernest.

[shotsome]

in reply to: 1st time Colorado Elk hunting! #58309

Whole lot of good tips here,,,But be prepared for lots of other hunters,,,and lots of other hunters,,nice little roads will be like the interstate. Try and come out in the summer to scout, The yeppies, and tourists will be pounding your huntin grounds, and the elk will be getting used to “Calfornia Camo” clothes. You might hit the BLM office that is the closest to what ever area you pick. A lot of people have moved into,Colorado, and have locked up roads that used to open to Nat. Forest access. Now they have the whole forest as their back yard. The people at the BLM offices have been a big help,in me getting around the fences, locked gates. Once in the back-o-beyond you are pretty much by yourself. Take you gps,,make sure of privite bounderys. In Colorado, it is your job to know where you are at. If you are on public land, stand your ground, if confronted,,,I have had anti-hunter types try and tell me I was on privite land. Report any such type harassment to the first offical you meet.

Grear,,,,Thick pad, closed cell foam. Air is cold to sleep on. At least 2 quarts of water a day,,It is getting dryer every year here,, and even more so at high elevations. A tent that is not,poly-coated inside, It will keep you wet at night, and you will expell the unused water in just breathing at night. You will wake up to dew inside the tent,,or frost rainging down on you if it turns cold. Use one with a rain fly instead, with plenty of air movement.

Pack frame, like an alaskan, one thing that I have started taking is a roll up poly snow sled,(wally-world,$3.99 ) you can pull more weight than pack it on your back,100 ft of 550 cord,, the elk will be dead it won’t care. Take lots of film.

Good luck,,Ernest

[shotsome]

in reply to: You've got to be kidding me!!! #52869

Great Kids toy 😡

How in hell you gonna regulate something like this.

Boycot, the company for sure.

[shotsome]

in reply to: Aussie turkeys #52001

A-Jim,,Great picture of your wee one. Always wanted to visit your part of the world. You mentioned Afaganastan, I want to think you for your service. Hope you never have to leave home again,execpting holiday of course.

I collect Brass Military buttons, don’t have any Aussie ones. Could trade some only found in the U.S items with for some. I collect old and modern ones,,,just wondering.

Ernest.

[shotsome]

in reply to: fletching #51931

Dw ,,,Thanks for the url to past thread on Fletching,some great info there.Being new to to the forum I had not read many threads as of yet.

Smithhammer,,Shooting arrows with no fletch shows you got one fine tuned set up. I believe fletching is/was used to stablelize arrows because of inferior materials used in the maufacture of arrows, and bows. Old man Newton told us that, a body in motion will remain in motion in a straight line with constant velocity,unless acted upon by an exterior force. Would you hunt with those bare shafts? Neo-man did,in some cases. In reading the older threads, I see that I whipped a dead horse,so to speak. Appoligies.

Grumpy,,Rocket Science,,,my highschool physics teacher did a number on my head,,,half the people I try to explain any thing to walk away shaking their heads. The other half just get glassy eyed and stand very still.

If you have time to experiment, do so,,But Dr. Fred has done some wonderful things,,(will have to read more)May be we can get together some day, i will show you my experiemnets on shooting arrows out of muzzleloaders, with 1/4″ iron heads,no Fletching,,but with a turbulator made with masking tape. Course at the time I just wrapped them with the tape to make it ride the bore better.

Seriously, they made giant holes in my straw target butts.One thing for sure, “old will be new again” We are old enought to start seeing that.

Ernest,,,,hey if you want to find out what your C.P. is on your arrows I can help with that also,,:wink:

[shotsome]

in reply to: fletching #50854

Grumpy,,I think you got it right. Long narrow feathers. are the key. The wider you make the fletching the more drag you can create.

The key to making any arrow stablize is the balance of that arrow. ( spline not withstanding). I have always felt that an arrow should be built by:

1. picking the spine/and of course material of shafting.

2. Picking the Broadhead -other head (what work do you want it to do)

3. Glueing or other wise attaching it to the shaft.

4.Pick the knock,and aline to the broadhead and glue it on.

5.Picking the fletching to balance the arrow ( size/weight/ material). Colors and such are just make-up.

6. Picking the style of fletching ( straight/ helical) Imparting spin stablizes better. Just as do longer arrows.

Arrows do not Fly,,(as in aircraft) they gluide. Feathers and vanes should not and do not impart lift. You do not want to impart lift on any part of an arrow. You don’t want to airfoil any fletching. Because lift must be controlled,,,Unless you have raido controled arrows,,,no lift.

So what does make it gluide and stablize? That is air pressure. Not only do you have a balance point (mecanical), a physical mid point (static ), you also have a center of Air pressure. You control the C. P. by the shape of the fletching. To increase control, you use surface area. The longer (cord) is to width or height (span), the more suface area, and the less drag. You could make a vane that is three inches wide and one inch long. But it probley won’t shoot around or thru a rest. And it would have more drag.So what makes an arrow go farther, velocity, and angle of attack relitive to the earth.

Balance is the key to good arrow flight,, want to make great arrows, buy full length feathers, and find the shape and number that you need that is best for balancing your arrows and finish that trully stable arrow. So how do you do that? use a string. And hang the headed-nocked arrow and add weight to the nock side (hang the fletching your using now) with thread and see how close to the 60/40 % percent rule you are now.

So why do they sell 5 in feathers,, 4 inch vanes,, 2 inch super vanes for carbon. One reason, that is convience, well maybe tradition also. Sheild cuts,,, cause they look cool, and for finger clearence supposedlly.

Just take a gander at the arrows our ancesters used and check out the Fletching on them.

Thanks for your time. Ernest,

[shotsome]

in reply to: BUILDING THE BOW #50736

Grumpy,,I heard it once said,,”There is no such thing as an ugly widow, Just them that don’t how to look Pretty” Stick an arrow into the side of her house,made with the pidgin feathers and a note that says thanks just the same. 😆

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