[rferdinand]

in reply to: I got this old BOW #43105

dfudala wrote: Ya, wow! Sorry about that Ferdinand! I read that WAAAAY wrong! My bust:oops:

No biggy! I should had said more who said what. While I was shooting, “I got this old Bow,” shooting the same length bows, it doesn’t mean that you’ll be able to shoot the same arrows in the two bows. Samick Sage, it like a shorter arrow, the Ben Pearson likes the longer arrows. I’m going to have to cut 5 arrows shorter for the Sage recurve bow; the unfletched arrow shafts(bare shaft tuning), the nock is to the left of the field point; weak spine. I believe that I need to cut about half inch off the shaft may be more!

[rferdinand]

in reply to: I got this old BOW #42929

dfudala wrote: Nothing wrong with shooting old bows as long as they are still in good condition as far as I can tell? I’m opening this season with a ’66 Kodiak. Bear Archery does recommend not leaving a traditional bow strung for long periods of time. Remind your compound buddy that there is no wood in his bow.:wink:

I forgot to said, the buddy wasn’t the one who said don’t leave the bow string on, it was Sportsman Warehouse employee (archery dept.) to remove the string. I ask my buddy advice about removing the string his thoughts about doing it. His reply was, “You don’t take your string off your compound do you?” Leaving the string on won’t do anything to your recurve bow. Just clarification whom said what! My buddy shoots only traditional archery. Thanks for your concern!

[rferdinand]

in reply to: I got this old BOW #42067

dfudala wrote: Nothing wrong with shooting old bows as long as they are still in good condition as far as I can tell? I’m opening this season with a ’66 Kodiak. Bear Archery does recommend not leaving a traditional bow strung for long periods of time. Remind your compound buddy that there is no wood in his bow.:wink:

Well, I had a very good day shooting, “I got this old Bow.” After reading all the information, I just had to shoot my old bow. I started at 15 yards, then 18 yards, finally I tried my hand at 30 yards. I did ok, but I now wanted to shoot from 10 yards; let the fun begin. I had a lot of fun just shooting my old bow. Trying to get the hang coming to anchor letting the arrow fly (snap shooting) is what I call it! I did very good, not all the time, but 7/8 times out of ten, the arrow would hit the mark. I’ve got targets three locations around my yard, so I’ll move around just shooting having fun; when you stop having fun shooting your bow, that’s when target panic comes; just too serious, and for me archery is therapy (PTSD) (Vietnam Vet) with disabilities from my years in the US Army (13 years). Thanks to ALL!

[rferdinand]

in reply to: I got this old BOW #39487

eidsvolling wrote: I had to take a break from shooting my 1958 Bear Kodiak to respond to this. Just kidding – it was my 1968 Bear Grizzly. Or maybe it was the custom selfbow made for my dad … in 1943.

As noted above, if the bow is in good condition, there is no reason not to shoot it. The bows from the ’50s, ’60s and ’70s will probably go on killing game long after we Boomers have passed from the scene.

As for the strung/unstrung question, you’ll hear all sorts of opinions both ways, some occasionally taking pains to differentiate between longbows and recurves, selfbows and all other bows, etc., etc.

I leave my fiberglass-laminate recurves strung. Until I get nervous about the weeks that have passed. Then I dither long enough to remember that the whole reason I have them is to shoot them, and it’s handier to keep them strung and I do more shooting that way. (Makes no sense, but there it is.) I do leave my selfbows unstrung. When the snow gets too deep in the winter for stumping, I unstring all of them. At least for a week or so …

I went and done just that, go and get that bow and shoot it! The handle on this Ben Pearson is very good, I got a Samick Sage recurve 62″ 40# that got me into traditional archery, the handle ok I can shoot it, but I like the Pearson much better. Thanks to All for your help!

[rferdinand]

in reply to: I got this old BOW #38504

David Bartlett wrote: I shoot my 67 & 1/2 Bear Super Kodiak almost daily. I say string it up and have some fun.

Stringing it up, I have another question regarding string it up. Do you leave the string on your bow or do you remove it when storing it, say for a few days. I’ve ask this same question to a traditional archer and he said, leave the string on. His reasoning is, your compound bows you don’t take the string off of them, why would not leave it on your recurve bow. What do say?

[rferdinand]

in reply to: installing arrow rest w/ a thin strip of leather #11772

I’m not sure if I’ll do anything but shoot the bow. This problem started with me having a problem with Samich Sage recurve bow twisting in my hand, that Sage handle for my hands is too large; one too many things that I had to do. A previous topic, “Traditional Archery and PTSD,” I received a lot of help from forum members; I was faced with problems involved with shooting traditional archery that I haven’t faced with shooting a compound bow. I could just shoot it or buy another recurve bow, but that wouldn’t happen until 11/18/2014 (my birthday). Traditional archery require much more focus/concentration; this demon has been with me since Vietnam 1971. I wanting to stay in traditional archery (archery period), is where the Bear Grizzly bow came into my hands; I always do a product review if I have plans on buying a new bow or whatever. I came across on Ebay a deal I could not turn-down: Bear Grizzly 58″ 55# a package deal (all new) for $339.99 free s/h. A 50% improvement over the Samich Sage handle; that bow I would have to put a “death grip” on it to be able just to shoot it! I’m enjoying shooting the Grizzly! Thank you to ALL for your concern!

[rferdinand]

in reply to: installing arrow rest w/ a thin strip of leather #10279

Thank you for the information. The strike plate is flat, the arrow rest/shelf area is curved. When I nock an arrow, I can see that the arrow point’s to the left a little, so by placing a small piece of anything under the strike plate, this will make the arrow point more to the left is this okay?

[rferdinand]

in reply to: PTSD and Traditional Archery #43207

Soothing time in the woods is my backyard. The woods here in Alaska you can find the four footed furry kind (black or brown) with big teeth and claws. Therapy is just spending time shooting my bow, the compound or recurve. I will be shooting both today, first the recurve, and then the compound. Again, THANKS to ALL who answered the call. I will be looking at shooting my bow with a different mind set; just for fun.

[rferdinand]

in reply to: PTSD and Traditional Archery #41223

Thank You to all who answered the call! Awhile ago I when to the local Sportsmans Warehouse, and I talked with the archery staff there about the Sage bow; twisting at the shot; and what he said was that others were having the same problem. So he had me to shoot two Bear bows both with smaller grips, the feel was much better. I have a Mathews bow that came with a large handle/grip, and I could not shoot that bow either, so I had the archery shop remove that grip, replacing it with a smaller handle/grip. I’m now able to shoot this bow much better. I will continue shooting what I have until I’m able to buy a traditional bow with a smaller handle/grip. For the PTSD, I’ve had two sessions of counseling: 1999/2000 and 2010/2011. My shooting modern archery was at the lowest point since starting archery 2007, the counseling session in 2010, turned things around, and my shooting has improved where I felt traditional archery I’d give it a try spending $140.00 Samick Sage, a small price to pay. Again, thank you!:D

[rferdinand]

in reply to: New Traditional Archery #8909

Thanks to all that answered the for HELP! My first compound bow (11/07), there’s more to follow: seven compound bows, 1 crossbow (not too fun shooting it), and my 1 recurve bow. As you can see archery, modern or traditional is very addicting especially if you LOVE the outdoors. I will get the books to learn what I can from them. I hope that I can get good enough with traditional archery, so, one day when Mr. Moose walk’s through the yard, I’ll be ready. Rudy

[rferdinand]

in reply to: Shot Placement #46977

Moebow wrote: Yes there is a chart available but it depends on whether you are left or right handed. IF right handed, generally high AND left is a combination of things. There are reasons for left and there are reasons for high. When you get them both at the same time it will probably be a combination of things. You will need to work on eliminating one error at a time. Start with the left errors.

Be sure your arrow nock is under your eye. Be sure your string hand is tight on your face each shot. Be sure your string hand isn’t “flipping” out from your face as you release. Be sure your bow hand stays on target. That’s 4 things to work on ONE AT A TIME!!! and see if you can get the “lefts corrected.

One way to do this is to place a vertical length of blue masking tape on the target and work to center your shots on the tape. ONE ITEM AT A TIME!!!!

Once you get that figured out, then work on elevation. Check that you are holding the bow correctly. Don’t “peek” (lift your head to watch the arrow). This time, place the blue masking tape horizontally on the target. and only work on that.

Finally, place both a vertical and horizontal tape on the target and work on both.

I would be remiss IF I didn’t add the standard coach caveat of “50# is a LOT to start with!!”

Welcome to Tradbow and Have fun!!

Arne

I’m new to traditional acrhery about one month, but I know that until I have good form, my arrows will always go high/low or right/left where I’m aiming at. Thank You.

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